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Thread: Washing patch material

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    Washing patch material

    Would someone explain why you should wash patch material and how best to do it.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    Would someone explain why you should wash patch material and how best to do it.
    Thanks
    storebought its got gunk in it they call "size" - somebody said starch but thats bein way too kind - the size is to make the fabric appear better finished than it really is and also so it handles better -- I just chuck mine in the washing machine for a long cycle with some ordinary detergent - hang it outside to dry - iron it and fold over - iron again and fold etc till you have a wad 8 or 16 layers deep.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I ran mine (WalMart red and blue) through twice with jeans and work uniforms then dryer. Then outcome would be with my description softened and fluffed, then your decision to strip, patch, etc..

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    I would suggest washing the large section of ticking (patch material) BEFORE cutting into strips and/or patches. .

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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    It gets rid of the sizing and any other extraneous stuff the manufacturer puts on the material to make it feel good to the purchaser. Just wash it with regular detergent a couple times and dry as normal.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I throw it in the laundry for a couple of washes and tumble dry. The sizing makes the ticking too stiff to make a good patch. The best bet is to wait till the pillow refurb guys come to town and get the old ticking from the take offs. I did this years ago and got enough free ticking to patch my guns for the next 50 years.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by KCSO View Post
    I throw it in the laundry for a couple of washes and tumble dry. The sizing makes the ticking too stiff to make a good patch. The best bet is to wait till the pillow refurb guys come to town and get the old ticking from the take offs. I did this years ago and got enough free ticking to patch my guns for the next 50 years.
    We all different !
    I wont use recycled material for patches - maybe its our climate (lots and lots of sunlight) and the fact most laundry is still line dried outside but second hand cotton material here looses its strength to the point it tears just way too easily - I can rip a pair of worn jeans just pulling with the thumb and pointer finger of each hand - and as well the wear points are variable thickness. Nope ! I pay the money for new stuff.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the info!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    FWIW, sizing serves an important function in material. The sizing makes the thread not stretch as much, so weaving and sewing can be done with greater precision. When I sew with cloth that has been washed I will sometimes use spray starch to stiffen it up prior to cutting. Then wash the finished product before use.

    To me sizing makes the cloth feel cheap, not more expensive.

    And, yes, I would wash any patch material before cutting the patches.

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  10. #10
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    I wash my patch in an automatic washer on whites using hot water. 2 cycles and then dry in the dryer again on whites I do not use any soaps just the water so it is washed and rinsed in plain water 4 times!

  11. #11
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    Old denim jeans work well. They've been washed a few hundred times.

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    My take on the why of washing first ...

    After washing lord only knows what out of the cloth with good detergent, dry it in a hot dryer ... hotter the better.

    The manufacturers crud they put into new material can not be good for barrel nor in yer mouth if spit patch's are used, then after good n clean ... that hot dryer will shrink the threads good and tight together making those patch's good and tight and strong so burn thru is less of a chance as well as making them absorb spit or lube better.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigted View Post
    My take on the why of washing first ...

    After washing lord only knows what out of the cloth with good detergent, dry it in a hot dryer ... hotter the better.

    The manufacturers crud they put into new material can not be good for barrel nor in yer mouth if spit patch's are used, then after good n clean ... that hot dryer will shrink the threads good and tight together making those patch's good and tight and strong so burn thru is less of a chance as well as making them absorb spit or lube better.
    Never thought about the heat toughening the patch material - but was doing it by accident - I always ironed mine with the temperature setting way up high - ironed and folded over till I had a neat wad of cloth ironed out and 8 or 16 layers thick - made cutting with a wad punch easy and quick.

  14. #14
    Banned bigted's Avatar
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    Joe, the ironing into several layers then punching them out is a grand idea.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigted View Post
    Joe, the ironing into several layers then punching them out is a grand idea.
    There's a solid hardwood block lives on the concrete 6 feet from my back door, a two pound blacksmith hammer and a good sharp wad punch - I can cut enough wads in a few minutes to keep me shooting for months - always lookin for easy ways is me.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Hanshi's Avatar
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    All patch material should be washed prior to patch cutting/use. Washing makes the weave tighter as well.
    Young guys should hang out with old guys; old guys know stuff.

  17. #17
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    came across this thread (no pun intended) tryin to find out what happened with frontiermuzzleloading.

    I am curious to know who uses denim (AKA blue jeans) as patch material for patch and ball. And what are your thoughts? Not looking to change.............. I use the blue stripe pillow ticking.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    I am currently using Blue Jean material in my .61 Renagade with a .600 Lee Round ball.
    The material is thicker than the Blue Stripe Pillow Ticking.
    But my rifle is Deep Grooved so it fits right but tight.
    But it also seals better and I don't have to use an over powder wad.
    I have tons of old Blue Jeans from work since I recently retired.
    Some are worn more on the upper thigh.
    The groove diameter of my barrel is about .640 with the deep Rifling and slow twist.
    I was using Blue Stripe ticking loaded over a 20 ga.
    Felt shotgun wad and it sealed great , but was one more step in the loading process.
    That gives me a selection of thickness to try.
    The unworn lower leg section is about .025" thick.
    And the thigh sections are between .018 and .020

  19. #19
    Boolit Master RU shooter's Avatar
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    Washing also takes that nasty taste out of it when your using spit patch ! Lol
    If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RU shooter View Post
    Washing also takes that nasty taste out of it when your using spit patch ! Lol

    Especially if the dude that wore the blue jeans failed to launder them...……

    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check