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Thread: Lead Free Primers (CCI Brand) Not Working Well

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Lead Free Primers (CCI Brand) Not Working Well

    Hi:

    I have been using lead-free primers and find in .38 special loads using a 125 Grain J-boolit behind 5.8 grains of Accurate # 5 will not drive the boolit out the barrel.

    Any help would be great.

    Thanks,

    Terryt

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    The lead-free primers are less sensitive and need a heavy striker blow to set them off. If you have after-market springs in your gun or a bobbed hammer they will not go bang. You need to have at least 0.011" copper indent measured on the "C" size .225x.400" copper in the government gage holder.

    Coil spring J-frames are worst offenders. Try Federal 100 primers instead.

    AA#5 is not best powder for your application. TiteGroup or Bullseye would be much better.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Don't think primers are the issue unless you suspect less than full ignition of the powder which should leave unburned or partially burned powder . With standard primers does the bullet clear the barrel. If it doesn't either increase the powder charge or use a different powder.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Some times a bullet with a good crimp groove and a heavy roll crimp helps ignition .
    But I have no experience with that powder.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    Burnt Fingers's Avatar
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    That's a load below the starting load in the Western manual.

    If you use real primers do you have the same problem? If so use real primers. If not, then you need to up your powder charge.
    NRA Benefactor.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
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    Three things to try:
    1st, a heavier load. Accurate lists 6.1 grains as the starting load for accurate #5 with a 125 grain Hornady XTP. Your load is lighter. I would step up to 6.3 or 6.5 grains.
    2nd, a heavier crimp. I found a long time ago that a firm crimp--that doesn't buckle the case--helps achieve better and more complete combustion.
    3rd, seat your primers fully in the primer pocket. I have run into a problem with my Dillon Square deal where the primer would not be fully seated, resulting in "Dud" and squib loads. Seat your primers below the cartridge head by at least .002 inches.

    If you're still having trouble, change to a conventional primer, put a stronger main spring in your revolver, and switch to a faster Powder. Outposts recommendations are excellent, though I can also add WW-231/HP38 to the list. I have loaded hundreds of 125 grain JHP's over 5.1 grains with complete satisfaction.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    A bit more powder or use boolits.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
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    Hi:

    Thanks for all the info.

    Terryt

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check