Buckbuster 12 gauge slug

[longbow]

Which turbo HB slug?

I would have sworn he posted the drawing of the 12 ga. slug but I can't find it now. He did post teh drawing of his 10 ga. HB slug which I downloaded and scaled to 12 ga.

The ACE slug was also a bit heavy for my wants or needs. I guess if you want a bear stopper that would be a good slug. Lots of weight and a big meplat! I'm sure it would leave an owie!

Hmmmm... I hadn't noticed before but looking back at the link jmort posted, it is 0.734". So far I haven't read any posts regarding it being too big or causing pressure issues. That's a lot of swaging to 0.727" which seems to be common for rifled gun groove diameter. That certainly should make for good fit in most shotguns. My single shot runs 0.733" and my Slugster is right about 0.730".

Interesting!

Longbow

[jmort]

The Turbo Bell was just the hollow-based pin that allows for the thick skirt he advocated. My experience is that he is right. ACE added it to the group buy as the original skirts were too thin
I would like thicker skirt pin option here.





Per Turbo:

"It is my experience that a bare minimum wall thickness on a hollow base skirt is about 0.08" and preferably a higher practical minimum of about 0.10" wall thickness is necessary in most shotgun slug loads to keep the skirt from significantly and unevenly collapsing under the firing loads during the trip down the barrel. Most factory foster slugs have skirt wall thicknesses with at least some weak spots well below that, and many factory slug molds also barely have enough wall thickness on the skirt to have the minimum strength needed to prevent such significant distortion of the slugs skirt during firing.

I have personally proven to myself that having just a little thicker skirt walls makes a significant improvement in accuracy in a smooth bore gun and the substantial reduction in the distortion of the slugs skirts as a result has been confirmed by careful capture and examination of the fired slugs using the snow drift methodology which is the best way I know of to stop a bullet or slug without mangling it in the process of stopping it so that its actual in-flight condition after it exits the muzzle and before impacting a normal target can be examined."

[longbow]

I'm with turbo there for sure!

I have shot soft lead Lyman Foster slugs into deep snow then recovered them and every one had bumped up to bore diameter from as cast 0.705" and every one had noses tilted and uneven skirts. They were obviously tilting before they hit the bore then swaging to fit.

The Lyman Foster slug runs about 1/16" skirt thickness so I decided to make a mould with thicker skirt of 0.100". I cast up some slugs from ACWW then went shooting in winter with deep snow again. Accuracy was horrible with targets showing keyholes. I was quite surprised since the slug was a tight fitting wad slug with thick skirt and seemingly good balance point.

When the snow melted in the spring I recovered several slugs and the reason accuracy was horrible was obvious... the skirts were belling! It seemed that the wads would partially push into the HB cavity forcing the trailing edge of the skirt outwards. So it wasn't collapsing but was flaring out. Never seen that before! I have since though.

I tried both filling the HB cavities with hot melt glue and oven heat treating. Both solutions worked well and accuracy was as good or better than most other slugs I've tried with groups running 4" to maybe 6" at 50 yards.

Since, I have almost always filled the cavities with hot melt glue.

A couple of years ago I was testing out a new design and decided to alter the mould to make a Brenneke style slug for attached wad. I made a very thick walled HB cavity to increase length and provide longer lead bearing surface, otherwise the slug is very short at 1 1/8 oz. or so. Skirt thickness was about 1/8" so I didn't think the skirt would fail. Wrong! That thick skirt belled when the wads pushed in even with ACWW!

I like skirt thickness from no less than about 0.080" to 0.110" and HB cavity filled.

I am in for this group buy whether we get a selection of pins or not. Skirt as is runs a hair over 0.080" thick and I can machine pins down if I want to get thicker skirt.

Longbow

[jmort]

His minimum is .10"
The Turbo Bell pictured is .11"
I would like .12" minimum so there is sufficient strength to promote accuracy

[longbow]

We don't seem to be generating much interest here... yet anyway. Could we extend the potential group buy to Shotgun World and/or the American Slug Shooting Association? We might get more people interested and turn it into a real group buy.

I'd like to get this mould!

Longbow

[gpidaho]

I'll be in for one when it gets going and I see the available options. Gp

[jmort]

I think it will fly
We got a Honcho
I am good for two
I bet we are getting close to 10
I see no problem in this happening
Might take a spell, but not an unreasonable amount of time

[megasupermagnum]

I count 7 molds already, 8 if rancher1913 gets two. Once this goes active, it doesn't look like it would take long.

[bluejay75]

I count 7 molds already, 8 if rancher1913 gets two. Once this goes active, it doesn't look like it would take long.

Preference on mold makers?
Who will agree to share this on the shotgun sites?

[jmort]

I have no preference
NOE or MP
I do not see the nessity to solicite other sites
I would suggest it be coordinated through the Honcho
Let's do this .....

[megasupermagnum]

Whichever one agrees to run for less molds, 10 would be great. Trying to find buyers for 30 molds might be tough. If I had to choose, I would say NOE because I believe they would put it on their website for future purchase, easier to get base pins (for us in the USA anyway), etc. That and I would rather have an aluminum mold than brass.

I would have no problem at all with MP either, especially if the mold # requirement is lower.

[Tmaloy]

Just starting with loading slugs so please bear with me. What type of crimp can this be used with? Does this require trimming the hulls or can one use the regular star type crimp?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[longbow]

While I like my NOE moulds I do not have one of their RGB HP or HB pin moulds. I am a bit skeptical of the system mostly with regards to longevity. Not so much with brass but with aluminum I have to wonder.

I guess my question is ~ who has an RGB HP and/or HB NOE mould and how many boolits has it cast? Any problems with wear of mould halves around the pins? Galling? I suppose the RGB moulds have been in production for some time now so maybe I am just being paranoid but I like the Cramer system better.

I'd prefer brass from whoever the maker is regardless. Given the option I'd go with iron actually. However, Mihec and NOE don't make iron moulds and Accurate iron moulds are considerably more expensive then brass or aluminum.

Anyway, let's get this sorted out then we'll see what the options are.

Longbow

[megasupermagnum]

Just starting with loading slugs so please bear with me. What type of crimp can this be used with? Does this require trimming the hulls or can one use the regular star type crimp?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

These work with both star and roll crimps. You do not need to trim hulls, trimming wads may or may not be beneficial depending on which wad and spacers are used.

[longbow]

By the way msm, where did you get the drawing for this slug? did you have a drawing or did you produce the drawing from physical measurements of the slug?

[megasupermagnum]

By the way msm, where did you get the drawing for this slug? did you have a drawing or did you produce the drawing from physical measurements of the slug?

I used TMT cast bullet software, and measured from a number of actual Buckbuster slugs made by Shotgun Bullets MFG. I did have to make a few small changes like the shoulder isn't perfectly squared (It is square on a real Buckbuster), and the base pin needs to be tapered more so it releases during casting, where the real Buckbuster was a much straighter taper.

As for the NOE RG series molds, I only have one. It works fine, galling is no problem. You do have to make it a point that the pins are seated correctly when you close the mold, as they have a little up and down play. Longevity is no concern to me on mine, which a 44 caliber hollow point. Did NOE use their RG floating pin style molds for their Lyman sabot slug copy? I would ask whoever bought those molds how they work. The one thing I do not like about the RG molds is the brackets for the pins is on the bottom of the mold. They do not slide on my Lee pot's mold shelf. The easy way around that is to get the NOE mold shelf.

[longbow]

Not sure the pin taper would make a lot of difference. I was going to get the Ness Safety Bullet but was worried about sticking on the really deep and barely tapered HP pin so I made a push out mould clone to check it out and not only did I not get sticking at all on the pins but the mould cast so well I dropped out of the group buy! Kinda wish I hadn't because i do love Mihec brass moulds but I like my $150.00 too.

Having said that I have a Lyman Foster slug mould in 12 ga. and I have never cast with a more cantankerous mould! The HP pin looks reasonably tapered and is quite smooth but man does it stick! Maybe the large diameter skirt shrinking is the problem there. I've had no problems with my push out slug moulds with barely any pin taper though so go figure!

Anyway, not an issue if the pin has a bit more taper... better a bit more than it needs than a bit less! I am liking this slug!

Longbow

[megasupermagnum]

Not sure the pin taper would make a lot of difference. I was going to get the Ness Safety Bullet but was worried about sticking on the really deep and barely tapered HP pin so I made a push out mould clone to check it out and not only did I not get sticking at all on the pins but the mould cast so well I dropped out of the group buy! Kinda wish I hadn't because i do love Mihec brass moulds but I like my $150.00 too.

Having said that I have a Lyman Foster slug mould in 12 ga. and I have never cast with a more cantankerous mould! The HP pin looks reasonably tapered and is quite smooth but man does it stick! Maybe the large diameter skirt shrinking is the problem there. I've had no problems with my push out slug moulds with barely any pin taper though so go figure!

Anyway, not an issue if the pin has a bit more taper... better a bit more than it needs than a bit less! I am liking this slug!

Longbow

That's where I'm like you guys, a few different base pins would be great.

[Tmaloy]

Gents, another dumb question, is this a bore rider type slug, or is this a sabot type? I plan to use my Remington 1100 smooth bore 12G.

[megasupermagnum]

Sabot, for use in a regular plastic wad.