To paraphrase Ronald Reagan, the trouble with many shooting experts is not that they're ignorant; its just that they know so much that isn't so.
Of course, everything remains to be seen, but I don’t think the old iron cylinder of an original revolver would be any worse or weaker for a mild-steel facing job than it was originally.
I have a heavily customized smokeless-era Bisley Colt that was so worn it spit lead out the sides of the cylinder gap. Took it to the local gun shop to have it fixed. The remedy (routine, back in the Good Old Days before there were a lot of good replicas and replacement parts) was to weld up the ratchet star at the rear of the cylinder and recut the notches. Since then, I have fired some pretty maximum smokeless loads in it (.32-20) without untoward incident.
Of course, “the very next shot!!!” could blow the thing to bits. I could also get run over by a 1929 Essex on the Range parking lot. By all means, “proof” your cylinder by remote firing of incremental black powder charges up to the standard load. And recognize that you are on your own; nobody is “recommending” anything here. I’m rather fond of putting wrecks back into shooting condition myself, and I sympathize. And I’m not responsible for any trouble that the idiot of the future, who comes across one of my projects, makes for himself. Then, now, or any time, anybody who is in the “antiques business” had better know their stuff, and beware.
There are two ways to manage risks: figure out how to minimize the occurrences and/or consequences; or run away screaming. The OP lives in a socialist oligarchy that forbids its subjects the possession of handguns, including modern C&B replicas. He’s doing what he can to thread the legal obstacles so he can shoot his revolver. Best of luck to him, and by all means, keep an eye out for a usable original cylinder as a replacement.
I was not aware the you could not own modern C&B replicas in Canada. Just one more reason to get this one functioning again.
Back to the cylinder issue. Remington was a pioneer in steel advancement usage in firearms. At one time I had dates of when and what materials where used. Unfortunately I lost that info in a hard drive failure. If I remember higher grade steels weren't used until after the early rolling blocks came out. Chances are the 1858 cylinder is wrought iron and not steel. The modern functional equivalent of wrought iron is mild or low carbon steel. Neither wrought iron nor mild steel contains enough carbon to be hardenable by heating and quenching so the heat from the welding should not be an issue UNLESS the mig wire has enough carbon to make it hardenable.
This is just for future reference but when welding up to holes carbon rods can be used control weld metal's flow.
http://www.stoodyind.com/Catalogs/FI...05catpg197.pdf
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
Watching this thread
What fun, what fun
NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95
Thanks for all the advice, il definitely try strapping it down to something the first times I shoot! I ordered a cylinder stop. Mine was brittle and broke. So I wont be shooting any time soon.
in canada we can and do have modern cap and ball revolvers.They are restricted and require the holder to be licensed by the gov and can only be used at approved ranges just like regular handguns.With antiques made before 1898 cap and ball and the approved go cartridges you do not require licensing to own .
Thats why people try to resurrect utter junk and have seen some real interesting repairs if one could call it that
Like back in time when you took your gun to the blacksmith to get it fixed. I feel sorry for Canadians.
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May I ask the broader question, how would other folks have attempted to repair this? Setting the barrel back is one option. What about welding a steel plate to the front of the cylinder and then cutting the chambers? Drill and tap between chambers and bolt a plate on?
I’d be afraid of just building it up for all the reasons mentioned. I expect the cylinder to be no worse for wear, but expect that the build up will blow off sooner rather than later. Different rates of expansion and repeated impacts will be hard on it I think.
If it was mine I would not do anything to either the frame or the cylinder. First I would try to modify a replacement replica cylinder and if that was not possible I would manufacture a new one. That is the benefit of being an toolmaker and a part time smith. If welding was the only option it would be tig welded with carbon plugs in the cylinders.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
That should raise the carbon content of the weld. While I have never welded on a cylinder I have shimmed the rear on a few old muzzle loaders to move the cylinder forward. This would create head space on a cartridge gun.Found out the easy way to repair a star on an 1849 Colt was to make a new one and bore the back of the cylinder out then solder it in place. Very easy to change the timing, just heat till the solder melts and turn the star a bit.
Where is the carbon transferring from? With proper tig rod selection no carbon added.
With the carbon plug backers theoretically is possible for some carbon transfers if you arc directly to the carbon but I have never found this to be an issue when I repaired molds. Mostly they were tools steel and reheat treated after. I have used carbon flats on mild steel for corner buildup. A couple of times I water quenched as a test and I could not detect an increased surface hardness with a file or during machining when done as directed.
http://www.stoodyind.com/Catalogs/FI...05catpg197.pdf
3. Fill the cavity with weld metal, taking care not to touch the carbon plates with the arc. The metal should be flowed into the corner to form a square edge.
In the event the carbon does transfer at the point of contact with the carbon transfer you would basically have a casehardened area that has not been quenched. If I was concerned about hardspots I would normalize the cylinder. https://www.instructables.com/id/Nor...Carbon-Steels/
Normalizing has little benefit for mild steel from a strength prospective it has great benefit for stress removal for things like tooling plates. Here it would resolve hard spots in the event of any carbon transfer. https://www.thebalance.com/how-does-...rocess-2340017
Last edited by M-Tecs; 08-12-2019 at 01:15 AM.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
I would have soldered a bushing around the forcing cone; then file for clearance. Keeping the frame cool with heat away or wet pack. But I hope I never have to do such a thing.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |