Revolver cylinder gap fix and advice needed!

**Kev18** · 08-07-2019, 01:08 AM

So I got an 1858 .36 cal original revolver, the previous owner grinded down the cylinder for some reason... causing crazy pressure drops. Balls get stuck in the barrel.

I tried to rebuild it with a mig welder. I set it on the lowest setting, not to melt the cylinder or harm it in any way. I have alot of polishing and alittle fitting along with some crack repairs to do. IM NOT A WELDER. JUST A GUY WITH A MIG WELDER.

*I dont care about collector value and such....

Il probably get a new .38 special cylinder one day but im in no rush. Do you guys think it will hold?

Before:

After:

**lefty o** · 08-07-2019, 09:43 AM

you wouldnt catch me pulling the trigger on it after you buzzed it with a mig.

**Bent Ramrod** · 08-07-2019, 09:44 AM

Looks pretty good. A proper size reamer to even up the chamber mouths and it ought to work. One hopes there are no seams under the weld that might accumulate fouling and start to rust.

I have an ASM Walker that had too much cylinder gap. I left the cylinder alone, but shortened the arbor and shaved off the breech end of the barrel lug, deepened the locating pin holes and did a little filing on the cutout next to the rammer so conical boolits would fit.

Desperate times, desperate measures. It shoots fine now.

**Kev18** · 08-07-2019, 10:13 AM

Originally Posted by lefty o

you wouldnt catch me pulling the trigger on it after you buzzed it with a mig.

Why? It heated up the steel?

If it got hot i cooled it down in water. It never got red hot or anything.

**lefty o** · 08-07-2019, 11:10 AM

Originally Posted by Kev18

Why? It heated up the steel?

If it got hot i cooled it down in water. It never got red hot or anything.

and you cooled it in water, that's worse. it is now potentially brittle.

**shortlegs** · 08-07-2019, 11:53 AM

The cylinder will be brittle now that you cooled it with water and will shatter easier. Better retire that one.

**Ajohns** · 08-07-2019, 12:12 PM

Boy I don't know about that. Ditto on the water quench especially on old steel. If collector value means nothing, you shoulda tried getting the barrel off, lathe turn the shoulder back (you or someone) and get the barrel set closer that way to get the gap to spec. Or hang it on the wall, buy a clone and bang away.

**Der Gebirgsjager** · 08-07-2019, 12:38 PM

Another vote for wall hanger.

But, miracles do happen, and a patient, diligent, continuing search might turn up another original cylinder from one of the parts vendors. That cylinder is toast.

DG

**Kev18** · 08-07-2019, 12:45 PM

I guess it was water cooled, but the water wasn't cold or anything. It's been sitting in the garage and it's 30c outside. And after taking it out it wasn't cool. Still pretty warm.
I want to attempt to shoot it, i guess il strap it down somehow.

**1911sw45** · 08-07-2019, 12:49 PM

You just made that cylinder unsafe mig welding it and made it brittle by water quenching it. You just made a grenade might not be the first time you pull the trigger but it’s coming.

**1911sw45** · 08-07-2019, 12:50 PM

It don’t have to be cold water to make the metal brittle.

**Kev18** · 08-07-2019, 12:56 PM

Alright well il see what happens I guess! If everything goes good il just keep it, and wait for a repro cylinder

**lefty o** · 08-07-2019, 05:48 PM

Originally Posted by 1911sw45

You just made that cylinder unsafe mig welding it and made it brittle by water quenching it. You just made a grenade might not be the first time you pull the trigger but it’s coming.

amen! a person shouldnt go randomly adding heat and quenching items that need to contain pressure. of course unless they dont like their fingers or eyes.

**Traffer** · 08-07-2019, 06:11 PM

Not wanting to hijack the thread but I have an old Forehand Arms 38 S&W solid frame with .012" end shake. Was planning on soldering a .010" shim to tighten up the cylinder. Just planned to use 50/50 solder. That shouldn't weaken the steel should it?

**M-Tecs** · 08-07-2019, 06:55 PM

1. Reaming is not a good option since the reamer will follow where it starts. It would need to be bored on a milling machine.

2. Generally it's a very poor idea to weld repair this type of damage. That being said chances are good that the cylinder is nothing more that mild steel so the quench MAY not be an issue if the mig wire was mild steel also. If the mig wire was an alloy it becomes a much bigger issue. Welding requires the base metal to melt so parts of the cylinder was way more than red hot.

3. Even in that condition you should be able to sell it for 2X to 4X the cost of a modern replica.

4. Finding a original matching cylinder would be restoring a piece of history.

**OldBearHair** · 08-07-2019, 07:13 PM

Get the welder back out and fill all the holes on both ends. Maybe leave one open for tying on. It would make a good fishing weight.
Soldering would sort of be like one who sticks a quality hunting knife in the fire and wonder why it turned purple. (650 degrees)

**Kev18** · 08-07-2019, 07:44 PM

Originally Posted by M-Tecs

1. Reaming is not a good option since the reamer will follow where it starts. It would need to be bored on a milling machine.

2. Generally it's a very poor idea to weld repair this type of damage. That being said chances are good that the cylinder is nothing more that mild steel so the quench MAY not be an issue if the mig wire was mild steel also. If the mig wire was an alloy it becomes a much bigger issue. Welding requires the base metal to metal so parts of the cylinder was way more than red hot.

3. Even in that condition you should be able to sell it for 2X to 4X the cost of a modern replica.

4. Finding a original matching cylinder would be restoring a piece of history.

It's definitely mild steel, i feel like it really won't be that bad. Especially how I weld... Im not good so I don't leave the welder on for a long amount of time. So it really doesn't heat up alot.
And if you can find a cylinder, il buy it... Il keep an eye out at gun shows.

**M-Tecs** · 08-07-2019, 10:19 PM

replica 36 cal here https://www.ebay.com/itm/Uberti-Remi...ss!55304!US!-1

https://www.vtigunparts.com/store/default.asp

original 44 cal don't see any 36 but give them a call the may have other sources.

http://www.ssfirearms.com/products.a...page=5&filter=

http://www.lodgewood.com/Remington-1...Navy_c_62.html

Posting your WTB here might work

http://www.n-ssa.org/

**ulav8r** · 08-07-2019, 10:44 PM

Weld it up solid, then throw it in a deep lake. It should never come near powder of any kind again.

**John Taylor** · 08-07-2019, 11:05 PM

Had an old 1858 Remy come in several years back that had about .025" cylinder gap. Customer wanted to shoot it so I gave it a test fire, ball bounced off a 2x4 and left a small dent. I don't think I would have tried welding up the cylinder but setting the barrel back would probably work fine. Would have to move the loading lever catch if the barrel is set back. One of the Italian cylinders may fit with out too much work, probably better metal than an original.

BP	Bronze Point	IMR	Improved Military Rifle	PTD	Pointed
BR	Bench Rest	M	Magnum	RN	Round Nose
BT	Boat Tail	PL	Power-Lokt	SP	Soft Point
C	Compressed Charge	PR	Primer	SPCL	Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP	Hollow Point	PSPCL	Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt"	C.O.L.	Cartridge Overall Length
PSP	Pointed Soft Point	Spz	Spitzer Point	SBT	Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN	Lead Round Nose	LWC	Lead Wad Cutter	LSWC	Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC	Gas Check

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Revolver cylinder gap fix and advice needed!

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