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Thread: Smoking a new mould

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Never smoked a mould til last nite. New Accurate Al. Several poor sessions, nose wrinkles. Yes, up to temp. Used a bic and after the first few casts, nothing I could see in the cavities but faces pretty dark. Wrinkles went away. High temp burning off any oils? Soot on the faces helping with venting? Don't know but when it works it does.
    Whatever!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    I never smoke molds unless I have a problem with them.

    My rule is: Always try them out clean and dry first. THEN decide if you need to do anything.

    I think I only have 1 or 2 molds that need any intervention... All the rest cast fine with no shenanigans.

    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by sailcaptain View Post
    All of my moulds have been smoked prior to first using them. Pins for the hollow bases or hollow points are lightly lubed.
    I have a new Mihec Mould, still in the box, for .45 caliber.

    An older member of my club happened to see it and commented on the quality. And then said don't smoke that mould. He said he never has and never did and his bullets come out perfect every time.

    So just what is the popular consensus on new moulds fresh out of the box...prior to first use and during and after casting a few?

    I didn't see any reference on the Mihec site regarding smoking.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master
    white eagle's Avatar
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    I have had many,many,many molds all different shapes and sizes
    and have never done anything to the mold to prep it for casting
    other than preheating mold,putting on handles and pouring in molten lead.never smoked a single one
    it may take awhile but boolits come out as they should
    Last edited by white eagle; 08-16-2019 at 07:45 PM.
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    You mean there are casters that still smoke molds? I though that went out about the time the buffalo did. What on earth for?

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

    FLINTNFIRE's Avatar
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    Well Al at NOE includes on his instructions that he uses a BIC lighter , have found that on some molds it does help the first few times , to each their own , if you have no problems without doing it great if you have some problems try it , only takes a few seconds and you can always clean mold cavities , most of my molds cast big enough but on some molds I agree you may not want to lose any size , as to buffalo have the head upstairs on the wall .

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    If you need to give a boost to having your bullets drop out of the mold just use a #2 pencil and color the cavities and other surfaces with pencil lead. The very thin coating of graphite causes the bullets to drop. In addition it helps keep those little buildups of alloy at the edges of the cavity and those pesky dots from developing on the block faces that gradually build up and keep the blocks from closing completely, not to mention sprue smears. It does this without the carbon build up. Also it tends to stay on much longer wop you don't have to keep a candle burning.

    Additionally, if the iron cavities are a little rough from the previous owner not taking proper care of the mold, the graphite rubbed into the grain of the iron tends to smooth it out. The pencil also works equally well to slick up a brass or aluminum mold.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonheart View Post
    If you need to give a boost to having your bullets drop out of the mold just use a #2 pencil and color the cavities and other surfaces with pencil lead. The very thin coating of graphite causes the bullets to drop. In addition it helps keep those little buildups of alloy at the edges of the cavity and those pesky dots from developing on the block faces that gradually build up and keep the blocks from closing completely, not to mention sprue smears. It does this without the carbon build up. Also it tends to stay on much longer wop you don't have to keep a candle burning.

    Additionally, if the iron cavities are a little rough from the previous owner not taking proper care of the mold, the graphite rubbed into the grain of the iron tends to smooth it out. The pencil also works equally well to slick up a brass or aluminum mold.
    Graphite = carbon
    Smoking = carbon
    NRA Benefactor.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master waco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    Never smoked a mould til last nite. New Accurate Al. Several poor sessions, nose wrinkles. Yes, up to temp. Used a bic and after the first few casts, nothing I could see in the cavities but faces pretty dark. Wrinkles went away. High temp burning off any oils? Soot on the faces helping with venting? Don't know but when it works it does.
    Tom cleans his molds with an ultra sonic machine before he ships them. He said all you have to do is take it out of the box and use it. I doubt it was any residual oil.
    The fear of the Lord is the beginning of knowledge: but fools despise wisdom and instruction.
    Proverbs 1:7

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

    Hickory's Avatar
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    I smoked one new mold about 35 years ago and had nothing but grief until I cleaned it up real good and it casts great boolits even to this day.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
    only to God and my own conscience.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master oldhenry's Avatar
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    For me smoking is a last resort after all of the other preps fail & it works.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    I started casting in 1972 used a small pot belly stove to heat lead. have never smoked a mold never had a problem. I do leave the last bullet in the mold when done casting.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master oldhenry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob208 View Post
    I started casting in 1972 used a small pot belly stove to heat lead. have never smoked a mold never had a problem. I do leave the last bullet in the mold when done casting.
    Bob,
    I do likewise (leave last boolit in the mold). Up until recently all my molds were steel (ferric anyway). Since adding aluminum (with the Lee type lever) & now brass I do not.

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
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    When I was new to casting, I tried smoking the molds and spray on release agents. I noticed a difference, although slightly, in finish from smoking and an obvious difference with the release. For several years I have only put lead in my molds, nothing more. I "break in" a new mold by several heat/cool cycles on a hot plate before the first cast. Works for me...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy

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    Similar incident, one of the guys I shoot with in our pistol league is an older gentleman he has been casting bullets close to sixty years , he told me the same thing. He said he has never smoked any mold he has ever used. He is very knowledgeable and well respected.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master LAH's Avatar
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    I've tried to smoke moulds but could never get one to stay lit.

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have usually smoked a new mold and had trouble with a high percentage of culls for the first 3 casting sessions. Then the mold began to make 95% keepers. I just thought that was the way it was. Well I am a follower of Larry Gibson and have always taken his advisement on anything gun related. His knowledge and experience is always correct . So if he doesn't smoke his molds, I will no longer smoke mine.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check