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Thread: 40 S&W/10mm loading for revolvers

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    40 S&W/10mm loading for revolvers

    I recently acquired a new Smith & Wesson Model 610 and am about ready to start reloading and casting for it. I have a Lee two cavity 401-145-SWC mold for practice and plan to purchase the NOE 198 WFNGC HP mold for hunting as soon as they are available on the website. If the Lee 145 grain bullet mold works well I will probably have Accurate make a similar five cavity mold.

    I have the Lyman 4th Edition Cast Bullet Handbook and most of the powders listed for the 40 and 10mm. I don't need specific load data but would like to know which powders worked well and those that did not. Also, any observations about tendencies of powders to work well for light loads but not so well for heavy loads and vice versa. Comments on the two bullet molds would also be appreciated.

    I have searched this site and other internet sources for general information on reloading the 40 and the 10mm and have a pretty good idea about the idiosyncrasies regarding reloading the two cartridges for revolvers as opposed to pistols but would appreciate your comments. Also, I am aware that the dies for the 40 and 10mm cartridges use a taper crimp instead of a roll crimp and wonder if any other revolver shooters have had problems with the taper crimp being inadequate.

    Thanks,

    Gus Youmans
    Last edited by Gus Youmans; 08-05-2019 at 01:26 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    I shoot 5 grains of Bullseye in both .40 S&W and 10mm with Accurate 40-182H in my Ruger Blackhawk. Is a "heavy" load in the .40 and a "mild" load in the 10mm.

    Taper crimp is fully adequate.
    The ENEMY is listening.
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  3. #3
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    Not a revolver owner in 40 but my autos lover power pistol powder.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks

    Gus Youmans

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    I only load for 1911 in 40 / 10mm but Win WSF works great for 40. There are many powders that will work for 40 around that 30-40 burn rate. For 10mm i'm actually using Vectan A0 right now for medium loads and Accurate #9 for full loads. In general for stout loads I go to slower powders (H110, #9, LongShot) but for medium power you can load 10mm with same powders as your 40.

  6. #6
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    Power Pistol is what I have recently changed over too. I was shooting Clays and before that HS6.

    Many powders can work well.

    PP get a lil better velocity.

    My long time fav heavy powders are 800X and BLUE Dot followed by #7 as more of a all Around powder.

    In a revolver you have less worries powder wise as you dont need to work the action. You only need find a favorable recipe the gun likes. Thats the fun of reloading!
    Nice revolver!

    Good luck!

    CW
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  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy skrapyard628's Avatar
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    I have not tried 800x, AA#9, or Blue Dot yet. But there is a lot of chatter about those being some of the best powders for nuclear hot loads.

    My preference is not to push the limit too far on my pistol though (stock gen4 G20 barrel). You should be able to push things a bit more with the strength of that 610, so it may be worth the time to work up some near nuke loads using one of those powders listed above.

    In general I find myself using Power Pistol, AA#7, and Autocomp in that order of preference. All of my 10mm loads using these powders are mid to max loads. I dont load light for the 10mm, thats what the .40 is for, but you should be able to use any of those three powders for low to max loads.

    There hasnt been any straight lead down the pipe of my 10mm either, so I cant say if there will be much of an issue with leading using any of those powders at any specific speed. Just jacketed, solid copper (lehigh), and coated (SNS) for me here.


    Marek313,
    Not to derail the thread too far, but...
    Im a little curious when you noted you use H110. Would you mind sharing a little info on it? From the little bit I looked into it, most of the info said it was a bad idea. If my memory is correct this was because by the time you reached 100% load density you still wouldnt get any more velocity compared to using a powder like 800x/#9/BD/Longshot.

  8. #8
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    180 lead
    6.2 unique for 10mm
    5.2 unique for 40 cal
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master 44Blam's Avatar
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    I like AA#7 in 40 S&W.
    WWG1WGA

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks guys. I have all the powders that have been mentioned except for Blue Dot. I will have to try to find some.

    Gus Youmans

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Blue dot is awesome for 10mm when you want to crank it up. For target i been using Alliants sport pistol across the board in all my pistol loads. Im not having any leading issues.
    One round at a time.
    Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I cannot help you on specifics for a revolver, but a 200 grain cast bullet and Bluedot brings 10mm auto to its potential, and shoots great too. The 180 grain XTP isn't bad either.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy 10mmShooter's Avatar
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    I have 1006s, 610s and Deltas, favorite cast bullet for 10mm brass is the RCBS 200 gr SWC, or the 175 swc, I have a 180LRN for the autos. Use mild taper crimp for the pistols and revolvers. Favorite powder by far WW231/HP38 and AA #5 will do for 750-1100 fps with cast bullets. If you want to go to "real" full power jacketed loads 1200+ fps then AA #7
    μολών λαβέ


  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    In my heavy 10mm loads for my 610 I use 800X and Longshot.

    I have an LBT 220 gr. GC mould and a NOE 200 gr. GC mould both WFN style.

    For my top end loads mostly with the 220 gr. I use 800X. I meter the 800X out with my RCBS chargemaster and load semi-progressivly. I like the 800X but since it is a slow process to load I also wanted to load a "shootin" load for 10mm that I could load in quantity on my Dillon progressive press. I decided on Longshot powder for this because it is a ball type powder that meters really well. I use the NOE 200 gr. bullet for this because I have a 5 cavity mould for it so I can make more of them. I also load this same load for use in my semi-auto 10mm's.

    Here is a pic of the LBT with a few other bullets. The LBT is in the middle between a 200 gr. bullet pulled from some early Double Tap ammo on the left and a 200 gr. bullet from a Lyman mould that I cast.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is a pic of the NOE 200 gr. WFN. L to R a raw casting, a checked/lubed/sized bullet and one loaded into a 10 mm case.



    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy TMenezes's Avatar
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    I regret passing on an opportunity to aquire a S&W 610 I saw years ago. At the time I knew nothing about the revolver and passed on until I did the research on it. By the time I went back to buy it, it was gone. Good luck and have fun, maybe I'll come across another.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Intel6,

    How do you like that NOE 200 graine WFN? Any issues/suggestions? Can you tell me what your OAL is with that bullet?

    Gus Youmans

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

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    Gus, I like it a lot. It is my primary shooting bullet in 10mm now. My revolver likes the 220 gr. sightly more but all my autos love this bullet and I still use it in my revolver. I was seating them to leave a bit of the shouder out like in the pic but I found I had some issues with my tight chambered Bar-Sto barrel so now I seat them so the mouth of the case is right at the shoulder.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    Intel6,

    Thanks for the info.

    Gus Youmans

  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    180 lead
    ...
    5.2 unique for 40 cal
    Interesting, that's pretty much my recipe for 185g SWC 45acp
    ...Speak softly & carry a big stick...

  20. #20
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    Well it’s 180 grain
    My 38sp load is 4.7 for standard or 5.0 for a little heat


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    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check