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Thread: M1907 or Kerr sling for my M1917?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Sep 2006
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    If you want to preserve your sling well, and stiffen it up to be more useable than a limp "D...K"
    you want to work Snow Seal into the leather. It is based on beeswax and will do a wonderful job
    on the leather, preserving it and making it less "floppy" and very much more user friendly as a working sling.
    beltfed/arnie

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I applied a coat of Johnson paste wax to waterproof it and let it sit for 24 hours and then I will buff it off. I rubbed it in with my fingers to heat up the leather to get it to soak in. Did this a good three to four times in a row. It made the color of the leather a little darker yet. Which I like. It seams like the leather lightens up in about a day after I apply EV olive oil so I’ve been reapplying several coats. Probably around 7 or 8. It looks like the wax is keeping it dark but I haven’t buffed it off yet.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 08-20-2019 at 09:09 AM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by fgd135 View Post
    I use a repro Kerr sling on my Remington 1917. Looks good, surprisingly easy to adjust. Certainly not as good as a 1907 for shooting.
    When I was a kid you could buy real Kerr slings from Numrich and other places for just a couple of dollars, if that. I see real ones now selling for big $$.
    No kidding....I wish I'd known this stuff when I was a kid. We could buy WW1 and WW2 stuff dirt cheap.....even stuff like Lugers.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I would not use olive oil. Like mink oil i bet over time it could mold. I would stick to wax.

  5. #25
    Boolit Mold
    Rany A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplebeards View Post
    I PM’d you. My brain hurt looking for the same answers you are. Jim, the person who I bought mine from gave me an education on them. He said all the brass buckles were painted black when first issued and most the paint wore off right away...if I remember correctly. Also the Kerr’s for the M1917’s weren’t issued till the end of WW2 with most of them not seeing service. I was told when the “fabric” Kerr sling got wet and muddy they curled up and were not liked for service work.

    The premium rock island 1918 sling I purchased is pretty flexible and soft compared what I expected it to be. IMO Adding extra virgin olive oil to it I can tell softened it up a little more. I was too cheap to buy a $10 bottle of recommended neatsfoot and had EV olive oil in my cupboard.

    I’d like to know if there’s a way to see if there was a way to see what slings were issued by serial number but never found an answer.
    The Kerr No-Buckle sling "was" issued during WW1 and was used extensively, actually preferred by the Marines, they placed orders in the 60-70 thousands. There were two lengths made (shorter of the two for 1903 and longer for 1917) and followed by a third length when the Thompson came into service later. If you're serious about research on them I can dig the specs up but will take me a while, I don't remember where I put all that stuff. They were well liked, quick to adjust and could be set wherever, instead of "go to the next set of holes". Use of the Kerr was discontinued in 1920 but remained on the Thompson and possibly reissued for the rifles during WWII at which time two different colors were issued. They are a very good sling and reproductions used to be sold on ebay by a user "What_Price_Glory" . I've purchased a couple from him to save the originals.
    Regarding specific serial number application, I doubt any such reference exists. I have several 1917s (probably need to let a couple go) and when it comes to looking original I found that the reproduction 1907 slings stick out like a sore thumb. Mr. Thompsons are well made but the hardware, rivets and coloring just don't match up. I also have Turner slings and they are top notch real deal (use them for match shooting) but the colors just aren't quite right there either. On the other hand, the Kerr reproductions I've bought are exact copies of the originals.
    I don't make it on here much but if you seriously want an original 1917 or 1918 dated 1907 I have several, send me a pm.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mto7464 View Post
    I would not use olive oil. Like mink oil i bet over time it could mold. I would stick to wax.
    Olive oil will dry out and need to be reapplied way before it would ever mold. I swear it’s dried out already.

  7. #27
    Boolit Mold
    Rany A's Avatar
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    Leather treatment turns into a heated topic especially with the Bomber Jacket guys. I use Wilson Pro glove treatment (for baseball gloves) it has vitamin E and lanolin.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check