Reloading EverythingInline FabricationLoad DataMidSouth Shooters Supply
Titan ReloadingLee PrecisionRotoMetals2Wideners
Repackbox PBcastco
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Barrel Profile Change

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    3,620

    Barrel Profile Change

    Can anybody change the profile of a varmint barrel to a sporter profile?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Southwest MO.
    Posts
    1,886
    Anyone with a lathe can.
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  3. #3
    Boolit Master



    TNsailorman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Northeast Tennessee Hills
    Posts
    2,548
    Sure, but it will have to be removed and turned on a lath and that can get to be quite expensive. At least that was how it was explained to me by a gunsmith when I wanted to do the same thing. A new barrel might be cheaper but you will have to check that out as I had a new barrel already and it didn't costs too much to have it installed. james

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    3,620
    I am actually looking for someone to do it.
    I have a lathe, but no taper attachment!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    elk hunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Central Oregon
    Posts
    1,538
    Quote Originally Posted by deltaenterprizes View Post
    I am actually looking for someone to do it.
    I have a lathe, but no taper attachment!
    It can be done without a taper attachment by step turning in one inch segments it and then using the compound to cut the taper between the steps or by step turning each of the steps at one quarter inch intervals and using a file to finish the profile. Takes a while but can be done. The hardest part is keeping the deflection and chatter from being a problem when you're working in the middle of the barrel. I turned a cylindrical section in the middle and used a steady rest. You do need to make up a profile drawing with the proper diameters on it so you know where you're going and the numbers you need to hit.
    BIG OR SMALL I LIKE THEM ALL, 577 TO 22 HORNET.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
    Posts
    1,389
    Offset the tail stock to turn a taper. Do one offset for a straight taper or multiple offsets for multiple tapers. I have used the multiple offset method to remove the steps from a military Mauser barrel. It was about the third or fourth project I did while teaching myself how to run a lathe.

    The profile drawing suggested by elk hunter is a good idea to follow.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Eastern WY
    Posts
    1,954
    +1 ulav8r offset the tailstock, make test cuts on plain steel rod to check you your taper or different tapers at different spots on the test rod before cutting the barrel. A sharp high-speed steel cutter for the best/cleanest cut. Most barrel steel cuts very nicely.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    3,620
    Thanks, a buddy recommended moving the tailstock and that is most probably the way I will do it.
    I have a 700 sporter barrel to set the taper and take measurements from.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Stephens City, VA
    Posts
    235
    Yes, the best way is to move the tailstock but you must cut the barrel between centers or you will bend it if held in a chuck and it will come out shaped like a pickle. You can use a dial indicator on the carriage to dial in the exact taper you want if you passed fourth grade math. Run the carriage back and forth to adjust the tailstock for the amount of material you wish to remove. Remember that you will cut twice what the indicator reads as you are only measuring one half of the taper. You may need a steady rest near the center. You can stop the lathe and move the steady rest to the other side of the carriage when you need to. Be sure to rough it down first then take a light finishing cut.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Southwest MO.
    Posts
    1,886
    I do as has been said above. I turn between centers with the tailstock scooched over. I put the steady rest up about midway and cut up to it. Then move it behind the cut and go again.
    Once I have my center in the chuck I move the tailstock up to it and scoot it over the amount I have figured.
    As was said you only move over half what you need. You cut on both sides.

    My lathe is an 1894 model. Once I get it roughed in I use a sanding disc on a 4-1/2” grinder to blend it all together while spinning and the steady removed
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check