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Thread: Mauser action screw question

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Remiel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    I'm not sure what Mauser model these came from but they are non locking head. Lots of Mausers over the years but none at the house currently. Let me know if you need one of these.

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    Are the measurements from the bottom of the head to end of the thread?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    I just noticed that’s not an original trigger guard, is it? Don’t 1893/1916’s either have the side button release or the non hinged bullet release floor plate?
    My military 1893 , all original , has a non-hinged , bullet released , floor plate .
    Hinged and side button released floor plates are not military issue , I think...
    With Mauser's nothing is a given .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    My military 1893 , all original , has a non-hinged , bullet released , floor plate .
    Hinged and side button released floor plates are not military issue , I think...
    With Mauser's nothing is a given .
    Gary
    This and 6 others were ordered as kits from old western scrounger. Who knows what was thrown in.

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    Last edited by Remiel; 08-11-2019 at 07:07 PM.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Factory matching # side release 1916 Oviedo. A bullet tip fits in the cup button.
    As stated nothing is a given in Mausers.

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  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    Factory matching # side release 1916 Oviedo. A bullet tip fits in the cup button.
    As stated nothing is a given in Mausers.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    Thats the style that came with my frends kit and he had tje same issue with the short looking trigger and short action screws.

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  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I'm mailing the longest screw to you today.

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  7. #27
    Boolit Master

    Uncle Grinch's Avatar
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    I’ve had Mauser bottom metal that was bent down causing the screw to be too short. Gently force it back up and the screw should fit.
    Shoot Safe,
    Mike

    Retired Telephone Man
    NRA Endowment Member
    Marion Road Gun Club
    ( www.marionroad.com )

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    I had to make a rear screw for my Arisaka.

    The screw started out as a long 6mm bolt. Grinding on the head was done with a 4 1/2” right angle grinder and a drill press. I rotated by hand until it was 12 sided, then turned on the drill press and ground it till it was round. Next I put a profile on the top of the screw. Finished it off with sand paper. Cut a slot by hand with a Sawsall blade.

    Note: all the other screws had screw slots that where so messed up that even after peening the metal back I had to recut the slots with that wide Sawsall blade.

    Used the proper die nut 6mm by .75mm to cut the threads. Then I cold blued (actually I used a cold patina called tri-black that I used to use twenty years ago when I was a blacksmith/architectural iron fabricator), this was followed by a heated application of Johnson’s paste wax.

    Hope that helps someone, you don’t always “need” a lathe to make a gun screw.

    JM

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JM7.7x58 View Post
    I had to make a rear screw for my Arisaka.

    The screw started out as a long 6mm bolt. Grinding on the head was done with a 4 1/2” right angle grinder and a drill press. I rotated by hand until it was 12 sided, then turned on the drill press and ground it till it was round. Next I put a profile on the top of the screw. Finished it off with sand paper. Cut a slot by hand with a Sawsall blade.

    Note: all the other screws had screw slots that where so messed up that even after peening the metal back I had to recut the slots with that wide Sawsall blade.

    Used the proper die nut 6mm by .75mm to cut the threads. Then I cold blued (actually I used a cold patina called tri-black that I used to use twenty years ago when I was a blacksmith/architectural iron fabricator), this was followed by a heated application of Johnson’s paste wax.

    Hope that helps someone, you don’t always “need” a lathe to make a gun screw.

    JM
    Is the spanish mauser screws the 6mm by .75? I know they are not 6mm by 1.0 and I have the pitted action that's going to become a 35rem project and I may run into the same issue(both have identical mag/trigger assembly's)

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  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Remiel View Post
    Is the spanish mauser screws the 6mm by .75? I know they are not 6mm by 1.0 and I have the pitted action that's going to become a 35rem project and I may run into the same issue(both have identical mag/trigger assembly's)

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    The Japanese made the Type 99 with all metric threading. 6mm x .75mm is not a normal metric thread size however, I had to special order the tap and dies. Not something you can go to the hardware store and buy.

    From what I have read the Spanish Mausers (and most other Mausers before 1945) use a 1/4" x 22 Whitworth thread size. Taps and dies can be obtained from Brownells and other specialty machine tool websites.

    It sure feels good when you get an old basket case reassembled and get it shooting again.

    Good Luck,
    JM

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check