Thompson Center Arms Molds?

[smithnframe]

I have a lightly used 54 caliber maxi ball mould.......what are these worth?

[brewer12345]

On eBay, probably $50 plus shipping.

[swheeler]

I have the 36 cal Maxi and the 50 cal maxi both cast well

went and looked have the .54 cal maxi also

[Buzzard II]

I'm still looking for a T/C #7355 RB mold.

[Tom W.]

Those are new compared to the two that I bought. they came in a little cardboard box.... Handles extra, of course.

[oconeedan]

I have what I think is a TC 50 370 gr Maxi-Ball mould and 50 rb mould. They are red anodized aluminum.
I know that shooting a deer with the maxi ball is like stabbing through them with a half inch pipe! I haven't used the mould since I sold my fast twist gun.

[megasupermagnum]

I have what I think is a TC 50 370 gr Maxi-Ball mould and 50 rb mould. They are red anodized aluminum.
I know that shooting a deer with the maxi ball is like stabbing through them with a half inch pipe! I haven't used the mould since I sold my fast twist gun.

Did the maxi balls cause much damage internally, or did it just make a 1/2" hole all the way through?

[oconeedan]

Did the maxi balls cause much damage internally, or did it just make a 1/2" hole all the way through?

I wouldn't say massive internal damage, but half inch holes on both sides is all you need.

[megasupermagnum]

I wouldn't say massive internal damage, but half inch holes on both sides is all you need.

That's what I was worried about, and sure enough it is the only bullet, including patched round ball, my rifle will shoot as well as I want. Thanks.

[MFGordon]

I remember reading years ago that Thompson Center molds were actually made by the Shiloh Rifle company back when they were in Long Island, NY and not Thompson Center. Has anyone else heard this? It would make sense because before makin Sharps reproduction rifles I recall that Shiloh's business was to make molds for black powder rifles especially for rifled muskets.

[oconeedan]

That's what I was worried about, and sure enough it is the only bullet, including patched round ball, my rifle will shoot as well as I want. Thanks.

I really wouldn't worry, and i wouldn't hesitate to hunt with the maxi ball again if I had a gun to shoot it well. They can't go far without blood, and a blind man can follow the trail....if the critter makes it out of sight.

[megasupermagnum]

I really wouldn't worry, and i wouldn't hesitate to hunt with the maxi ball again if I had a gun to shoot it well. They can't go far without blood, and a blind man can follow the trail....if the critter makes it out of sight.

There's no doubt it would be effective, but it seems odd to me to shoot a gun that kicks like a 12 gauge slug, and has the performance of a 357 magnum. At least penetration will never be of concern. I've tried every trick in the book to get round ball to shoot to my liking in my renegade, and can't do it. I'll take accuracy of the maxiball over the bigger wound channel of the round ball in this case. I'll be trying it out this fall. It's not too late to try and hollow point some maxiball's either...

[brewer12345]

There's no doubt it would be effective, but it seems odd to me to shoot a gun that kicks like a 12 gauge slug, and has the performance of a 357 magnum. At least penetration will never be of concern. I've tried every trick in the book to get round ball to shoot to my liking in my renegade, and can't do it. I'll take accuracy of the maxiball over the bigger wound channel of the round ball in this case. I'll be trying it out this fall. It's not too late to try and hollow point some maxiball's either...

I'm not sure it is worth the effort to hollow point. Consider what it is like when you hit a deer with a 30-30. Similar-ish energy levels and if you are lucky the bullet expands to 50 cal or so. Millions of deer have been taken with 30-30 without a lot of fuss. I would not sweat it.

I have settled on a 380 grain REAL for elk this year, but I picked up a 54 cal maxi ball mold and might put it through its paces for elk next year. Believe the 54s cast at 420 grains, which should kill on both ends.

[megasupermagnum]

What scares me about the maxi-ball is that it is essentially a spire point. Most 30-30 cast bullet meplat's are bigger. Being soft lead, it probably just deforms into a round nose. You guys are probably right, I may be worrying about nothing. It does kick, it's a 1 ounce (mine are 435 grains) slug at about 1400 fps depending on the powder charge you use. The next thing I'm doing to my renegade is installing a kickeez recoil pad.

[Czech_too]

I remember reading years ago that Thompson Center molds were actually made by the Shiloh Rifle company back when they were in Long Island, NY and not Thompson Center. Has anyone else heard this? It would make sense because before makin Sharps reproduction rifles I recall that Shiloh's business was to make molds for black powder rifles especially for rifled muskets.

I have what appears to be a NIB .50 caliber Maxi-ball mould in a lightweight cardboard box. On the one side is printed "Designed and Distributed by Thompson/Center Arms Co."
The T/C literature is still in the box, but the mould is stamped "Lyman". Now did someone swap the mould out? Dunno

[Buzzard II]

I have what appears to be a NIB .50 caliber Maxi-ball mould in a lightweight cardboard box. On the one side is printed "Designed and Distributed by Thompson/Center Arms Co."
The T/C literature is still in the box, but the mould is stamped "Lyman". Now did someone swap the mould out? Dunno

I've got a Lyman mold in a T/C box also. Same question. Thanks.
Bob

[TGM]

The one for the .36 cal was not listed in previous post. I have one that I bought many years ago.

TGM

[brewer12345]

As I understand it, there was a period where Lyman made the molds for TC.

[Hanshi]

Many years ago I bought a couple of T/C molds not because I was looking for them specifically but because I was in a hurry to cast. The only one I'm using currently is the .350" round ball mold. I've got some sensationally small groups with these T/C ball. My only complaint is that they have a sprue that must be watched when loading. But all you have to do is seat them sprue-up. I also have a newer .350" Lee dbl cavity. They're aluminum like the T/C and also cast great ball; but no sprue and that doesn't matter. Aluminum molds are excellent and last forever if not abused. I do more casting with aluminum blocks than with my iron ones.

[Tom W.]

As an aside, today I went to the shed and found my T/C molds. I never bothered to see if they were aluminum or not. I stuck a magnet on them and was surprised to see that they were indeed aluminum, with the sprue plate and screws steel.

Hoodathunkit?