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Thread: Is my mold worn out?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master daloper's Avatar
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    Mine would look like that if my stream was to small. Make sure that you pouring fast enough to fill the mold quickly on the bigger bullets.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I do a couple things with my new to me Lee molds. A good cleaning is a must. A few good methods are mentioned above, and I finish with brake clean. I rebelled against using a hot plate to preheat my molds (I don need no steenkin' hot plate!) but succumbed and now my casting goes much smoother and my "beginning casts" have many more keepers.

    For a brand new mold, I give it a good cleaning. Then I run it through several cycles of heating and cooling on my hot plate, usually set on high to get the mold really hot. Then I'll start casting. I put nothing but lead in any mold I own.

    I've seen it many times "the only way to learn to cast bullets, is to cast bullets". Keep a log, just like a reloading log. Write down your alloys, temps, what you try, and what works with each of your molds...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Pick up a package of bamboo skewers at the grocery store. Use the pointed end to clean out the vent lines. Just lightly drag the tip thru them. This insures the mould can vent properly. Fill mould as quickly as possible. Use the heaviest stream a little run over dosnt hurt anything

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Mold too cold hot plate and thermometer will get you there.

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks for all the input. I am going to try again either this evening or tomorrow morning.

    Question about pouring rate: I have a 10 lb Lee pot, and it drips like a sieve. That really isn't a problem.

    When I fill the mold, I try to hit the hole in the sprue plate, so that lead is more less dropping directly into the mold. I stop as soon as I see the lead hit the bottom of the sprue plate. I can usually get just a little bit of lead on top of the sprue. I pull the little wire bail lever down all the way when pouring, so I am getting the fastest pour I can, am I not? Am I missing an adjustment?

    It takes about two seconds to fill the the 300 grain cavities.
    Last edited by mattellis2; 07-26-2019 at 01:14 PM.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    I have the same pot. Aim the stream of lead into the sprue hole and when it's full move to the next one without stopping the flow of lead. ideally when you break off the sprue it's a string that stays together.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub
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    That's essentially what I have. I try to minimize the size of the sprue, but they are connected, and go back in the pot.

  8. #28
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    Sure size can have substantial effect on your bullet.

    But its NOT anything to do with this issue.

    As stated it’s likely all temp could be lil contaminants contributing. I don’t like anything but brake parts cleaner. Most everything else leaves some kind of residue. It’s a staple with me as important as my goggles, mold and pot.

    If new mold, heat cycling goes a VERY LONG way to stopping this. It will get there without it no doubt. You will just have many culled Bullets. Also, I don’t toss all back into the pot. For plinking it’s doubtful you will tell the difference. All depends on your needs or “ocd”.

    Good luck

    CW
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  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Let the lead overflow the sprue hole/plate. Won't hurt anything and you will be sure to have a good "shrinkage puddle" on top. Later when you start pouring good boolits, you can neaten up if you choose...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Hotplate and higher alloy temp. My experience with the 6 cavity molds is they have to be a bit hotter as well as the alloy (725-750 F).

  11. #31
    Boolit Bub
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    Well, heating the mold helps a lot. Actually got too much heat, and ended up with some frosted bullets. Backed the temperature down, but still frosty. Going to coat them anyway, so don’t think it really matters much. I’m tickled that I was getting full pours.

    Thanks for the help! I have a thermometer on order.


  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Hotter is usually better ,some tin helps .smoking molds helps sometimes. Molds are like guns everyone is different .

  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy Cheeto303's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post
    scrub mold well with toothbrush and dish soap (I like dawn)

    get a hotplate and warm your mold to apr 400°

    what alloy are you using and what temperature is your pot set to?

    I like to have at least 2% tin in most of my alloys, helps them flow better - better fill out at lower temperature.

    I set my PID at 680 for harder alloys, 700 for softer alloys and 720 for pure.

    Your Lyman mold looks like it's not closing completely, check it for debris on the mold faces that might be preventing it from closing
    Ditto.
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  14. #34
    Boolit Master


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    FROSTY BOOLITS ARE HAPPY BOOLITS!!

    ESPECIALLY if your powder coating!!!

    CW
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  15. #35
    Boolit Bub
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    Finished product. Now to see how they fly!

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
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    I have a lee 6 cavity for my 480 ruger and had a 3lb dipper pot and I would run out of lead before I got it hot enough to cast decent bullets.

  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master

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  18. #38
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by mattellis2 View Post
    That's essentially what I have. I try to minimize the size of the sprue, but they are connected, and go back in the pot.
    By now it looks like you figured out that a small sprue is not a good idea. Glad you got it figured out. If you don't have a hot plate you should consider getting one. The best kind are those with a soild surface, they're much better than those with an open coil. I have been preheating my molds for quite a few years now. It really reduces the time it takes to get good boolits.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    I'm certainly no expert on 6 cavity Lee molds but looking at your photos of your bolos, it looks to me like the parting line on them is pretty heavy and like you may be getting some flash on the parting line? Like I say, it may just be the photos and my eyes.

    The first thing I thought of when I saw your photos is that the mold wasn't up to heat, but plenty of suggestions have been given. Makes me wonder if you purchased it "used" if the original owner had issues as well?

  20. #40
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    I see the OP got it take care of ,I would not worry about frost boolits that is not to worry about just turn it down some after to get the boolits to not frost but do not worry about it. For all that was stated good to see the OP got it work out. Like stated also each mold have it own mind to be used. The hot plate is the best your advantage to cast. If you where usen a ladle I would say do not use the small one use the big one that one use for smelting the faster you get the alloy in the mold the better off you are. I found that out myself . Mainly it shows up with a 6 cav. mold.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check