Is there such a thing????
Seems like it would be very helpful.
What else could be used????
Cast boolet load data?????
Lyman cast bullet book.
Is there such a thing????
Seems like it would be very helpful.
What else could be used????
Cast boolet load data?????
Lyman cast bullet book.
What about just using the minimums of the manufacturer's published powder recipes? They work just fine. No need to load everything to the maximum and these loads are already available and distributed.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Here is a link I use you just enter what is ask and then it let you know how much powder to use for the FPS you want. I use it for have my 22-250 to shoot 45 gr PB like a 22lr.
http://www.weatherby.dk/rlc.htm
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Probably the best source I have found:-
http://www.gmdr.com/lever/lowveldata.htm
Edit to say this has all the testing that you are ever like to need. I've yet to see it's better.
Last edited by UKShootist; 07-25-2019 at 05:48 PM.
I use the starting loads , Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #3 , #4 and RCBS Cast Bullet Manual #1.
This has been working for 40+ years now.
Gary
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" Let's Go Brandon !"
I'm skeptical about that calculator. It assumes a linear relationship of velocity to charge weight.That just isn't the case usually.
Although, I will grant that the calculator may help as a starting point.
Trusting memory, Im not at home, Speer #9 listed pressure tested reduced loads for most cartridges I have used. 70s powders due to vintage, but it is a starting point.
“You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos
The very VERY big no no here is a slow powder reduced charge. Some people play around with reduced loads for mouse-fart or cat-sneeze loads. I fooled around with a roundball load in the .357 using low charges of unique and all I got for my trouble was the squibs and a (luckily minor) gunsmith bill since I couldn't get it out myself.
Trailboss advertises a minimum load that's safe in any cartridge. If I wanted to go down this road that's where I'd head.
"There are no solutions there are only tradeoffs" ~ Thomas Sowell
I would just start with the lyman cast manual. By definition, the vast majority of the rifle loads are reduced. Lighter boolits for caliber also tend to have less recoil. My smaller 14 year old daughter was popping off 3006 rounds with abandon because they were based on the lee soup can and a modest charge of unique.
When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.
+1 for UKShootist's recommendation, that is unless you want j-word bullets. If that is your goal, use the faster powders (also already mentioned) at the starting load level.
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Check out the above mentioned gmdr site. Got my 45-70 down to cap gun sounding loads and a round ball over light loads of Unique. Accurate enough for tin cans @ 30yds goes right thru and takes a squirell's head clean off.
Be very careful not to double charge any.
Nice find there David.
One thing I was told after the fact was that magnum primers are good idea with cat sneeze loads. My problem was lack of ignition with small primers.
"There are no solutions there are only tradeoffs" ~ Thomas Sowell
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
You may find this helpful too.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...grains-Red-Dot.
https://castbulletassoc.org/forum/th...ns-of-red-dot/
One round at a time.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |