What’s your process for throwing powder charges?

[Swamp Fox]

What is everybody’s process for throwing and weighing charges? Do you track how consistently your powder measure throws the same charge?

For my rifles, ive always used an old rcbs powder measure, that was with the used reloading stuff I bought when I started. My old method for throwing powder was to get it adjusted, then load 5-10 rounds, then weigh and readjust as needed. But it seemed like I was always readjusting and never getting good consistency from my powder measure. Accuracy was ok, but never great, for cast and jacketed rounds. Lately I have been setting the powder measure a little low, then weighing every load and bringing them up to the correct weight with a little extra powder from a spent casing. My group sizes have shrunk, and I have less variations in velocity. But it sure is time consuming. Is there a powder measure that is more consistent than others, or does everybody do the same thing I do? I wouldn’t think that wear would really affect it.

[Nobade]

When I switched from RCBS to Redding measures the spreads dropped considerably. Now I set it and go.

[gnostic]

It depends on the type of powder being dropped. For handguns, the powders being ball or flake, drop right on the money. For my rifle handloads, I'm usually using a stick powder and they don't drop accurately. So, like you, I drop a light charge and use a trickler to bring them up to an accurate amount.

[jmort]

Powder measure, dippers, and ChargeMaster Lite

[Shuz]

I remember reading an article in the now defunct Precision Rifle or Precision Shooting magazine, that basically said that the good shooting bench resters throw all their charges from a good reliable measure, and don't bother to weigh every charge. Their theory goes like this: Since not every kernel burns every time anyway, why worry about how many exact kernals are in the case? They are quick to point out that this is with powders that are known to throw without crunching kernals. Their method is to set the measure, check weigh a couple of charges and then proceed to fill cases. On the last case, they check weigh the charge to make sure it is within their accepted range which is usually 1/10th to 2/10th of a grain.
Since I load on a Dillon 450 and a Square Deal B, I find this method works real well. The only powders where I weigh every charge is big extruded powders like 4064,4759,7828 etc. On these on the old 450, I leave the button out of the charging station, and pull out each case after the charge is thrown and then trickle to the desired weight, again +-1/10th of a grain.

[Arkansas Paul]

It depends on the powder.
Most of the time for rifle stuff, I throw a little light and trickle up to the desired weight.

For pistol, I throw straight into the case and weigh ever so often. How often depends on the powder.

[Dusty Bannister]

I am mostly a handgun shooter and certainly not into match shooting. I use the single stage press so charge my cases while in a loading block of 40 or 50 cases. I seldom use a stick powder since I can feel the crunch and suspect that the powder charge might be off a little. I try to be as consistent as possible when I move the handle on the RCBS Uniflow to fill the drum and to empty the drum. I try for a firm thump at the end of each stroke. Perhaps this helps settle the powder in the drum chamber when filling, and again when dumping the powder charge into the case. None of my charges are upper limit so I am not OC about each individual charge, but I do drop 10 charges, weigh and move the decimal when setting the measure. Letting the powder measure sit on the bench while moving things and bumping the bench might settle the powder and influence the weight of the charge. I try to maintain a similar level of powder in the measure to keep "head pressure" on the powder column about the same. I use a funnel in the top of the measure and the outlet of the funnel is about half way down the plastic cylinder.

The smaller the charge, the more likely that chance .5 grain difference will affect the group. I will match head stamp cases, but I do not weigh my bullets for normal loads. I am a shooter, not a match competitor. Your needs may require otherwise. Dusty

[Elroy]

If I weigh every charge I set it to drop a grain light,and set the pan on my scale,and use a dipper to just tap in the powder,and slow down just shy of my desired weigth,and watch the instant my scale shows the desired amount.I'm usually not that picky,and dont sweat a tenth over,but I have been known to tweezer out a stick,or two just to be as close as I can get..I dont use my trickler any more because I have a habit of bumping my pan into it as i lift it off the scale.

[Land Owner]

Same for me as AR Paul (and others).

Rifle rounds (for hunting) get thrown "lite" and each is trickled to final weight.

Pistol and revolver, I set the progressive up and weigh every 20th or so charge - same on the progressive for the AR15 in 223 cal. (an inherently accurate round and rifle). I also use a powder indicator die on the progressive for a quick visual on each round as there is a lot going on at one time.

[Tripplebeards]

I just retired my 18 year old charge master scale as it was on the blink. It was always a tedious process with that type Of scale because after charging it a grain or so light I akways manually dropped powder grains one by one after every powder charge and it would take all day ( several hours) to load 200 rounds it would seem like. What a PITA!!! I bought the new RCBS trickle charger pro lite a few months ago. The built in trickeler has a fluted barrel to keep extra grains from falling out causing over charges like like most scales. It’s the only one with a fluted barrel. It’s completely automatic and I can load 50 rounds in about five minutes it’s ridiculous fast and accurate, Oh, I love modern technology!!! Should have bought one when they first came out years ago. I hated powder dripping with that old scale as much as I hate case trimming...now it’s just case trimming! All I have to do is program my scale and it’s automatic. I do wait till after it beeps and shows the powder charge weight again since maybe one in 15 to 20 will throw a .1 grain heavier.

Who ever is debating on buying a new scale...buy the automatic RCBS pro lite trickle scale. You will be extremely happy and thank me! I never thought I could punch in 18.1 grains and hit go...and watch it dump about 17 real quickly and trickle the remainder 1.1 grains PERFECTLY without my help and then BEEP! It’s done and letting you know it’s ok to dump in your casing. I have it set up on repeat so as soon as I set my pan back down it repeats charging automatically until I program it not to do so. Most powders take about 5 seconds or so to charge...accept trail boss. That takes a about three times as long with the donut shaped powder.

[Green Frog]

I use a variety of powder measures, but lately I’ve been using either a RCBS Little Dandy or a Lyman Accu-Measure with fixed rotors, so I fill the reservoir then toss a few throws back into the jug. Then I weigh a charge to make sure I put in the right rotor and gitter done. I make a point of turning the rotor as close to the same way each time to aid consistency.

Froggie

[Swamp Fox]

Funny you should mention the lil dandy. I’ve got one too, and use it to load pistol and light rifle loads, almost always with unique. I have found it to be very consistent and have some very accurate loads using it. I almost never weigh charges coming out of it. Usually only if I switch rotors, to make sure it’s throwing what I think it is.

[mdi]

Whenever I'm using a powder measure, In try to do everything exactly the same, charge to charge. When using my Lee PPM (please, Lee haters stay away), I most often set the charge, weigh 3 or 4 consecutive charges and they weigh every 3rd of 4th charge, depending on the powder. My CH is used mostly with "log" powders and my method is much the same, depending on powder. None of my powder measuring tools give consistent, less than .2 gr when measuring IMR 4064. When doing a load work up or charges for my Garand, I will weigh every charge...

[JBinMN]

I weigh every charge for every round regardless of which powder or which measure(RCBS or LEE) I am using. It just doesn't take me that long in the sequence of loading & thus I am confident I am not over or undercharging any of my rounds.
( Yes, I am OCD about it, but it is "my" way & if ya don't like it, too bad. )

I generally set the measure to throw at, or just under the desired amount & then I throw each charge by raising & lowering the handle, but tapping the handle 2x at each point in the swing top & bottom to make sure I am getting a consistent load without any "bridging" occurring.

Then, when necessary, I trickle the charge up to the desired weight if it was not thrown correctly. If I see that I am having to trickle more & more than before, then I will check the measure & reset it as necessary to get it back to throwing "on" or just under, & then return to loading.

I "test" 8-10 throws before I start to load any rounds to confirm the setting just to make sure I am not going to have to be stopping the sequence to test the measure, unless I begin to get inconsistent readings on the scale. As the powder in the measure drops, I occasionally have to reset the measure for some powders & if I were not checking each round as I go, it is possible that I would keep getting less & less charge as I went on, so to prevent that, & for "peace of mind", I just measure each one.

I even weigh powders I have first volume weighed with a scoop measure just to verify each one, but like I said, that is "my way", and if others do not choose to do so, that is fine with me...

Of course, like many things, we each do our own "thing", IOW, YMMV, and as long as one follows the safety procedures as proscribed in most if not all reloading manuals, one can measure powders any way they like, either in batches/occasionally, just once or twice, or individually, such as I mention here for what "I" do.

I find this type of topic interesting, as it tends to show the differences in ones way of looking at things & just confirms that we all walk different paths to get to the same destination in the end... Each enjoying their "own way" of doing things.

[country gent]

A new measure gets the test. 100 charges dropped with the powder Im most likely to use in it. Sometimes 2 or 3. These are weighed and written down in groups of 10. This shows 1) basic accuracy of measure. 2) what to expect from the measure. 3) any variances do to powder level in the hopper changing. 4)And last it helps show the operation the measure likes. A powder measure can be very accurate when tuned to a given powder and or charge range.

When throwing charges with my lyman 55 I leave it sit with hopper empty raise handle to charge five it one light bump to settle and drop with a light bump at the down stroke. This helps to settle the powder in the hopper for the next charge, and relieve any bridging.
I do weigh every charge. Normally with most powders its with in .2 grns.

Both my Harrels measures ran similar are scarry accurate.

One thig to remember is a powder measure needs to be ran consistently to be accurate. same bumps speed and at rest positions. Hopper levels can and do affect measures less head pressure means lighter charges, select a range in the hopper and work in it. The solidness of the measures mount makes a difference also. Sometimes a baffle helps, I have found this more with stick powders and larger charges. A baffle set up right will lower hopper level variations also.
The above run helps to figure out the given measures likes and dislikes

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I use the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. Set to weight, run 5 to settle powder, 3-4 to check setting. I use an '06 case (mostly) to catch and check settings. Ball powders give 0 variance, Varget, RL15, newer short stick powder, less than 2 granules difference, course powders less than 0.1 grain. I raise handle(fill chamber with a bump), lower handle (dump charge) with a bump, raise 1/2" and bump again. First 20 I check every 5, then go to every 10. I have an RCBS Uniflow, old Herter's, and new Lee Deluxe Perfect Powder Measure. I think the the new Lee may be more accurate(consistent) with the flake powders and the smaller charges(less than 5 grains). I use an RCBS 505 scale, I have a set of Lyman check weights I use fairly often with the scale. I have done the trickle thing, but haven't noticed a difference out past 300 yards if proper incremental load development is done.

[scotner]

I have also returned to the Little Dandy for powders such as Unique that don't weigh consistently with a Dillon measure. I got away from the Little Dandy years ago because it always seemed that I needed a charge weight somewhere between two of the available rotors. The shape of the cavity in the rotor seems to be more accurate for small charges than the Dillon with the small charge bar. I resolved the "in between" problem by adding one or two micro magnets in the bottom of the rotor to slightly reduce the amount of powder it drops. Then I stick the same number of those magnets to the end of the rotor where the number is stamped to remind me what is in there. I always use a rotor that is within the listed charge range for the powder being used just in case the magnets should dislodge but this has never happened yet.

[Sig556r]

RCBS Uniflow works for me (random checks) for rifle cartridges other than 300BLK & 277WLV
Pistol get consistent powder drop in both 550s with baffled powder cylinders.

[skrapyard628]

I only load for pistol calibers and I do so on a Lee 4-hole turret. I use the lee auto drum measures for plinking rounds and some powders. And I use a Hornady Lock n Load measure with the auto-linkage for more precise target ammo and some other powders.

I use loading blocks. When loading plinking ammo I throw powder into 100 cases and then spot check the weight on a few from the beginning, middle, and end of the lot. When loading precision target ammo or self defense rounds I check the charge weight on every single round.

The Lee auto drum keeps the charge weights within +/- .1gr for most powders I use (WSF,WST,AutoComp,W231,Power Pistol) but I was getting variations of +/- .2gr when using larger flake powders like Unique with it. I also had some issues with the auto drum leaking powder when using W296, AA#7, AA#9.

Thats where the Hornady LnL measure comes in. It doesnt leak any of the fine grain powders I use and the charge weights I throw with it are spot-on.

[white eagle]

I have been using a Redding powder measure from day 1
I check 1 in 5 and if they fall in my tolerance's they are good to go
for big extruded rifle powders I usually weigh them all
usually only do a box of 20 or so at a time