Unimpressed with my cap and ball revolver skills

[Stopsign32v]

Well I loaded 15gr of ffg in the chambers, a cereal box over powder wad, inconsistent amounts of grits, a lube wad, and finally my shiny balls. As you can see the seating consistency is pathetic. Not sure how to measure and know the right amount of filler (grits).

Oh and name that revolver

[Winger Ed.]

Practice, and concentrate on what you're doing.

It's like riding a dirt bike or flying a airplane-- the more ya do it, the better you'll get.

[Beagle333]

I agree. Just keep practicing. You'll develop your technique. Is that a G&G?

[fatelk]

Personally I never use any kind of filler, just a lubed felt wad. Works fine for me.

Many years ago I bought a roll of inexpensive wool felt. I picked up a set of cheap punches at Harbor Freight, and punched out hundreds of .44 and .36 felt wads. I found a recipe online for some lube made of bee's wax and a couple other things (I forget), melted it down and soaked it into the wads. I've been using them ever since.

All I use is powder, felt wad, and lead ball: no filler or grease at all. I've had a couple people tell me I'm doing it all wrong, that I have to use filler and sticky, nasty grease. One day I had a long talk with an old-timer at a gun show, who had been collecting, shooting, and competing with cap and ball revolvers for longer than I've been alive. He told me that the way I was doing it was just fine, perfectly acceptable.

[FerricOxide]

I never use filler. Full load of powder and a lubed conical or a round ball over a felt wad.

[RED BEAR]

If it works for you who cares what anyone says. I actually might try your way most of my bp revolvers reside in back of the safe. I hate dealing with the grease.

[BlackPowderLove]

I have just been using powder with a ball overtop. If shooting a lot etc., I may rub in a beewax and beargrease lube over top. Lately I have been rolling paper cartridges and love that. Eventually, I want to get a mold for some Dow and Johnston boolits and roll them.

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

I've never used filler or wads. Just lots of grease (or crisco) over the top of the balls.

[Stopsign32v]

I have just been using powder with a ball overtop. If shooting a lot etc., I may rub in a beewax and beargrease lube over top. Lately I have been rolling paper cartridges and love that. Eventually, I want to get a mold for some Dow and Johnston boolits and roll them.

This is my next plan, paper cartridges. My wife watched me load a cap and ball (I'm new to them) and she said "You're going to do THAT at the range? Takes a long time"

I had to explain to her that to me the process of it all is almost as fun as shooting.

[gwpercle]

You don't need grits for cap and ball shooting , save them for breakfast.
Omit the cereal box wads too ...unnecessary . Instead of a lube wad under the ball use Crisco , or fancy lube of your choice, on top of the ball .
Load enough black powder so that when a ball is fully seated it is 1/8th inch below the chamber mouth, fill the chamber mouth with lube .
You are trying to put too much "stuff" below the ball...none of which is necessary .
1.) A measure of powder
2.) The Ball
3.) lube ( Crisco or whatever)
4) cap and shoot

Brass framed reproduction 1851 Navy Colt from what I can see...probably Italian ??

Gary

[Stopsign32v]

From everything I've read the brass framed revolvers can take around 15gr black and the steel can take 20gr.

[fatelk]

That seems very conservative to me, for a .44 cal. I’ve always considered 20gr to be a light enough load for brass frame guns, and 30 to be perfectly fine for a steel frame gun. I’m far from being any kind of expert though.

[Tom W.]

Don't use KY jelly as a lube. I tried that once a looooong time ago. It's too thin....one shot and all of it blows out of the chambers.

If they are still in business Blue & Gray products makes spit ball and spit patch that works just fine.

[Stopsign32v]

That seems very conservative to me, for a .44 cal. I’ve always considered 20gr to be a light enough load for brass frame guns, and 30 to be perfectly fine for a steel frame gun. I’m far from being any kind of expert though.

Well this isn't a .44 cal...So there's that.

[Stopsign32v]

Is that a G&G?

And YES Beagle, you got it.

[Green Frog]

For the literally thousands of rounds fired at the North-South Skirmishes, wads of cardboard and or felt are avoided. The general formula goes something like “start with a moderate charge of black powder (I go with 18 grain my Rem 44) then almost fill the chamber with Cream of Wheat, leaving just enough room to start the bullet. Set a bullet in place and press down flush or just below, then cap with Crisco or slightly stiffer lube, add caps, fire, repeat.”

I find it better to use a separate seating tool rather than trying to use the seating lever on the gun, but that’s not required. Pre-measuring the powder and C of W is a good idea, and lately I’ve shot in warm enough conditions I find that pure Crisco is way too thin... I need to cap the charge with a stiffer lube containing beeswax.

The balls you use should be a tight fit in the chamber... some people actually like to cut a thin ring of lead as they seat the ball. Also, the lead should be dead soft to catch the rifling in the barrel.

Froggie

[Thumbcocker]

I prefer to use a grease was made of beeswax, tallow, and paraffin (gatfalo? lube) under the ball. You can also load the cookies in paper cartridges under the ball. Grease on top of the ball is blown off in a shot or two.

[Stopsign32v]

I do not plan to wipe grease over each ball. Way too messy and I'd be willing to bet it isn't fun after a couple cylinders of black powder is shot in the summer heat.

[mdi]

I haven't done any black powder revolver shooting in many years, but I remember how I did it. Since the loads didn't stay in the gun for more than a few minutes, I just dumped powder, added a ball, a snug fit against the powder, and smeared grease around the cylinder mouth. I used store bought swaged balls, appropriate black powder, and white grease (probably lithium grease). Never any problems and as long as the components and charges were the same, they all loaded the same.

[fatelk]

Well this isn't a .44 cal...So there's that.

That's what I get for assuming. Sorry.

As to lube wad vs. grease/crisco, I've seen this discussion before. I'm really an amateur when it comes to black powder, but my understanding is that purists and traditionalists really don't like felt lube wads, and stick with what worked best back in the day. I can respect that.

For me though, I just don't like the sticky, greasy, crisco. The felt wads are so much easier and cleaner. As an occasional, recreational black powder shooter, the lube wads work well for me so they are what I use. I always felt a little bad about it until I talked to the black powder guy at the gun show. If I was at a range or gathering like the "North-South Skirmishes", I would certainly follow their rules, but otherwise I'll just continue to do what works best for me.