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Thread: *URGENT* Original Remington 1858 Navy HELP

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
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    Are you sure that the replacement cylinder is .36?

  2. #42
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    Are you sure that the replacement cylinder is .36?
    The box says .36. Except the chambers are smaller but the cylinder bigger... makes no sense.

  3. #43
    Boolit Master
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    Well, the bottom line is that you have an original.
    Have you looked for inspector's marks?
    Last edited by Battis; 07-26-2019 at 10:55 PM.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    Well, the bottom line is that you have an original.
    Have you looked for inspector's marks?
    Nope, no idea what those are. Il do some research I guess

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Nope, no idea what those are. Il do some research I guess
    And do you know a site to check serial numbers?

  6. #46
    Boolit Master
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    When you take the gun apart, you'll see letters stamped on various parts. This chart will tell you who the inspector was.
    http://proofhouse.com/cm/us_inspector.htm

    This page should help in dating the revolver.
    http://www.american-firearms.com/ame...0&%20Sons.html

  7. #47
    Boolit Master
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    Looks like the holes in the new cylinder are 31 or32 cal not 36. For some reason they look smaller than the original

  8. #48
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jniedbalski View Post
    Looks like the holes in the new cylinder are 31 or32 cal not 36. For some reason they look smaller than the original
    They are smaller... I dont know why. They aren't .32 I jsut tried it with round balls and they just role down the cylinder.

  9. #49
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    When you take the gun apart, you'll see letters stamped on various parts. This chart will tell you who the inspector was.
    http://proofhouse.com/cm/us_inspector.htm

    This page should help in dating the revolver.
    http://www.american-firearms.com/ame...0&%20Sons.html
    I just have a T on mine. All the T inspectors have another letter after it.

  10. #50
    Boolit Master
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    For what it's worth, I have a Savage and North .36, a pretty obscure revolver. But I found and bought two spare cylinders for the gun on ebay at a decent price. Keep looking.

  11. #51
    Boolit Master
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    Mine also has what looks like a T. And several W
    Last edited by Battis; 07-28-2019 at 11:40 AM.

  12. #52
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    Mine also has what looks like a T. And several W
    There is no info on just a T

  13. #53
    Boolit Master
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    Yeah, it's not an exact science. Maybe it was Mr T: "I pity the fool who messes with my gun."

  14. #54
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    What size round ball do you use for .36 cal?

  15. #55
    Boolit Master
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    I used .375 in mine all reproductions

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by onelight View Post
    I used .375 in mine all reproductions
    Thats what I bought but they are alittle loose in the cylinder and only tight in the barrel on certain areas. I did abit of research and people buy the lee .380 RB mold. Il still try shooting it whenever I get the chance.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Thats what I bought but they are alittle loose in the cylinder and only tight in the barrel on certain areas. I did abit of research and people buy the lee .380 RB mold. Il still try shooting it whenever I get the chance.
    The balls really need to fit mine all cut a ring from the ball when seating which gives a much longer contact surface with the cylinder I always saw that as helping prevent chain fires.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by onelight View Post
    The balls really need to fit mine all cut a ring from the ball when seating which gives a much longer contact surface with the cylinder I always saw that as helping prevent chain fires.
    Mine are from from shaving lead off. Il see how it shoots and probably purchase more of different size.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Mine are from from shaving lead off. Il see how it shoots and probably purchase more of different size.
    If you aren't familiar with the term "chain fire" that onelight mentions, it's when the fire from one cylinder lights off the charges in adjacent chambers. One of the most common causes is undersize projectiles in the chambers, just what you say you have. Be careful.

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubber123 View Post
    If you aren't familiar with the term "chain fire" that onelight mentions, it's when the fire from one cylinder lights off the charges in adjacent chambers. One of the most common causes is undersize projectiles in the chambers, just what you say you have. Be careful.
    I shot it this weekend for the first time. It works and all but I feel like im having way to much pressure loss from the short cylinder. Whenever I have spare time, il try rebuilding it with a mig welder. And is 20-25gr FFg a decent load? Because it was a small snap most of the time. Not a BP BOOM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check