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Thread: Keep Getting Wrinkles. Help Appreciated.

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Keep Getting Wrinkles. Help Appreciated.

    So I'm still new to this. Had Accurate molds made up for my 8mm Mausers closer to the .318 groove. Cleaned the mold with brake cleaner twice. No luck casting. Probably cast more than 50 Boolits and every single one has wrinkles. Alloy is stick on weights already hand sorted and melted down with a turkey fryer. Cast into ingots. Positive there's no zinc. Just wanted to test the mold and figure it out on reclaimed lead rather than spending the cash on rotometals. Soon as I get the hang of it I will get harder alloy from them. Ingots were melted down in my Lee 4-20. Have a PID set at 750*F, Lyman digital thermometer read same. Even pre heated the mold. I just don't understand the problem. I think I'm moving along at a decent pace, too.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    You might want to try adding a little tin. SOWW are almost pure lead. The tin helps fill out the mold. A good source is Tin solder or pewter. 2-4% Tin is a good thing.

    redhawk

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  3. #3
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    I would guess that you didn’t get your mold hot enough, or it still has some oil in it.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy tmanbuckhunter's Avatar
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    Oil in the mold, not enough tin, mold not hot enough. One or any combination of the 3.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Some of those cleaners contain an oil in them. Scrub the mold down with dish detergent, Dawn or similar. Should clear right up.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Wrinkles are mostly caused by the mold being too cold, setting layers of the lead individually instead of the lead staying liquid long enough to fill the mold. Get the mold hotter, if you dip the corner of the mold into the pot and lead sticks to it, it ain't hot enough. Also, don't get discouraged over 50. Cast fast to build heat in the mold until you see frosting ( mold getting too hot) then slow up and find your rhythm. It takes several hundred sometimes to find your groove with a particular mold, so just keep casting and noting changes in how the mold and sprue puddle act, then when your mold gets too hot, cull the bad back into the pot.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

  7. #7
    Boolit Master daloper's Avatar
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    My guess would be a cold mold. It might also be caused by your stream being to slow allowing the lead to set as you pour. Try a faster pour.

  8. #8
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    Chill Wills's Avatar
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    I keep getting wrinkles - help

    Too many birthdays...

    I have the same problem.
    Chill Wills

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Pure lead, which is close to what you have with stick on weights, likes to be cast at about 800 degrees. If the sprue puddle freezes in a couple of seconds, the mold and alloy is too cold and the pace is too slow. Since you are bottom pour casting, open up the valve so it flows free and fast and a little too much will just slide off the sprue plate. You might consider getting the alloy you plan to use and learn with that and avoid having to start things over again. If your session is less than 30 minutes, you are probably not getting into the pace, temperature or consistent pours. All mistakes can be remelted and done again. Do NOT stop and look at the product. Get going and keep going and just glance at the bullets from time to time. Inspect when out of alloy or too tired to keep casting. You will get there, just get moving. Dusty

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    set the PID higher. Try setting at 780 and see if you get better castings. Mold sounds too cold.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Z.F.Bowles View Post
    Just wanted to test the mold and figure it out ... Soon as I get the hang of it ...
    Your own words coming back to you as well as some good advice above about adding tin (Sn). I make mine 49/49/2 - Pb/WW/Sn and there is a world of difference in that alloy and 100% lead (Pb). I had a lot of trouble before tin (and increased heat). WW = Wheel Weights with arsenic, antimony, and other metals we cannot combine and not just the hand picked stick on kind.

    If the spru plate (in particular) is too cold, it sucks heat out of the lead passing through it before the lead has a chance to fill the voids - thus wrinkling the boolits. Quicker cadence will often offset a cold spru plate and mold.

    At least nothing is wasted - except energy. Recast the wrinkled boolits till they conform to your tolerance.
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Chill Wills View Post
    I keep getting wrinkles - help

    Too many birthdays...

    I have the same problem.
    That's what I was thinking, got one coming up.
    Pro Patria-Ne Desit Virtus

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    ???? Keep Getting Wrinkles ???? ...... Quit growing OLD !!
    Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Wrinkles , 2 things might cause.
    1.) alloy and mould not hot enough . Preheat mould for sure .

    2.) Oil in the cavity . Clean with acetone . Use mould lube sparingly...it takes so little to lube it's unbelievable .

    Don't forget , it takes about 3 complete heating/cooling cycles and 2 casting sessions to season the mould cavities and get it broken in .
    Aluminum moulds retain a lot of machining oil , from the cavity cutting operation , heat drives oil up to the surface that's why the 3 heating/cooling cycles and 2 casting sessions with acetone cleaning in between is required . You have to drive that oil out .
    Gary
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  15. #15
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    I agree with gw I just use dish soap then warm the mold to 400°

    Is it a brass or aluminum mold?

    flux the alloy with both pine sawdust (burn it completely then mix it in well) and wax

    the only time I cast at over 700° is when I using pure lead.

    I don't trust Lyman casting thermometers, seen a few more than 50° off.

    Pictures would be helpful.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I had a noe mould that I got melted wax in the cavities when I lubed the sprue plate. Tried scrubbing it twice then just decided it would work out eventually. Took me probably 5 minutes of casting to burn it out of the cavities and get decent bullets.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Tom W.'s Avatar
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    And I was thinking Oil of Olay....
    Tom
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    Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    I have found with new molds it can take 100 bullets to get them "seasoned". Plus pure lead is really hard to get good results with in smaller calibers imo.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  19. #19
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    I'm surprised no one has mentioned smoking the cavities.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    gw is spot on concerning the heating/cooling cycles. I have over a dozen molds from Tom and every one is a little different on how many cycles. My last one took 4 times with at least 150 pours each. All but one cavity threw clean boolits on the fifth heating and that problem cavity cleaned up toward the end of that run. Now that mold throws clean as soon as it's up to temp. Most of Accurate's molds I have take at least 3 cvcles with complete room temp cool down to set. Don't get discouraged, we have all been down that road.
    Tony

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