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Thread: First boolits ever casted - excited for the journey ahead!

  1. #41
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    Oct 2011
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    1 mile from chickahominy river ( swamp) central va
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    Quote Originally Posted by BearGrillz View Post
    Thanks for the warm welcome!

    The large fan is to generate airflow in the garage so that we can keep from inhaling the fumes from the melt. It proved to be most required when we were rendering wheel weights. During casting we figured out that hotter seems to work better so I agree with your advice to keep the fan from blowing at the pot and mold.

    Thanks for the compliment! I try my best to search out plenty of information before I take on a new hobby, especially if that hobby is safety sensitive. I figure it's easier to learn from others mistakes.

    I was planning on using straight COWW and possibly water quenching if required. Do you figure that quenching may be unnecessary due to the small surface area of the base?
    +1 for the large fan. I to cast in my garage and finally got around to making a casting table in front of a window and have a large box fan to suck the fumes out. Water quenching ww gets them very hard. Mine end up at 25or26 bnh. I jjust air cool almost everything my ww air cooled come out about 12 or 13 bnh which seems to be about right. The wrong hardness can cause leading also. Powder coating from what i understand should cure that.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master OldBearHair's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    Conroe TEXAS
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    In the archives are much information on reloading for 9mm.. ... seating to deeply so that the gun will go to battery...builds pressure rapidly. Note: See Doug Guy how he can correct the problem of lands all the way back to headspace not allowing the boolit to be seated in the crimp groove, so you might want to correct by seating deeper. . OK, one more caution: Don't let the big fan move the air close to your powder measure. Much more info in the Stickys.

  3. #43
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    19
    Quote Originally Posted by RED BEAR View Post
    Sorry to take so long to get back to you. I made what can only be called a concoction for my lube i wish i could remember what was in it. It had a lot of stuff in it lithium grease stp atf vasoline alox bees wax parifin wax not sure what else or how much of each. But it works great in my pistols and rifles both. I was just about out but brother returned some as he quit loading so i can go a while longer before i have to make some again. Will write down what i use this time. Last time i went out with mini 30 fired 500 rds came home ran a swab with hoppes then a brush then a patch the second patch came out clean. Now these were gas checked so i am sure that helped. The bore on this gun has also been polished. But i was surprised at how easy it was cleaned.
    No worries! I've got time.

    Well I may have to look in to gas checks if I need to drive these real fast. Once I finally get around to testing these out I'm sure I'll have to make some adjustments. Hopefully I'll be able to hit that lube/hardness sweet spot so that I can keep my barrels nice and clean.

  4. #44
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    19
    Quote Originally Posted by RED BEAR View Post
    +1 for the large fan. I to cast in my garage and finally got around to making a casting table in front of a window and have a large box fan to suck the fumes out. Water quenching ww gets them very hard. Mine end up at 25or26 bnh. I jjust air cool almost everything my ww air cooled come out about 12 or 13 bnh which seems to be about right. The wrong hardness can cause leading also. Powder coating from what i understand should cure that.
    I want to be able to do this for a long time so air flow is certainly important to me too.

    I've read that too hard can be a menace too. I hope that powdercoating will give me some leeway. I'm amazed by how much water quenching can change the harness - thanks aresenic

  5. #45
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    19
    Quote Originally Posted by OldBearHair View Post
    In the archives are much information on reloading for 9mm.. ... seating to deeply so that the gun will go to battery...builds pressure rapidly. Note: See Doug Guy how he can correct the problem of lands all the way back to headspace not allowing the boolit to be seated in the crimp groove, so you might want to correct by seating deeper. . OK, one more caution: Don't let the big fan move the air close to your powder measure. Much more info in the Stickys.
    I've been using Google to search the site and many others that use the mold seem to be seating it quite deep as well. I'll keep looking through the stickies to try and feel comfortable about which powder I want and how much of a reduced charge to start at. I'm leaning towards Winchester 231.

    Haha I could see how that would cause problems. Lucky for me I keep the fans in the garage and the powder stays inside the house with the press.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check