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Thread: First boolits ever casted - excited for the journey ahead!

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy Iwsbull's Avatar
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    Looks like we are starting about the same time. One thing that will help to check the wheel weights is a piece of angled aluminum or a piece of bar aluminum. Use the squared edge to scratch the weights. Lead is the only one that scratch with just a quick strike. Almost forgot a big 👍 on the powder coating. Using 50/50 wheel weights to pure lead I am pushing my 44 to the mid upper 1400 with Lyman 429421 at 256 grains.

  2. #22
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iwsbull View Post
    Looks like we are starting about the same time. One thing that will help to check the wheel weights is a piece of angled aluminum or a piece of bar aluminum. Use the squared edge to scratch the weights. Lead is the only one that scratch with just a quick strike.
    Right on! I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor.

    Ohh I like that! Another test for the toolbox. I like to have multiple ways to check the weights. When you say scratch do you mean like you would to strike a match? Are you looking for a deep gouge?

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy Iwsbull's Avatar
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    I hit it a bit harder than I would strike a match. You can see the difference between the marks it makes on lead vs zinc or steel as well as the sound.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 42F1CC27-263F-4855-8863-F869EE9DBFEE.jpg   A23C7AA0-07BE-44B9-BDB3-CB10665018A9.jpg  
    Last edited by Iwsbull; 07-16-2019 at 10:06 PM.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iwsbull View Post
    I hit it a bit harder than I would strike a match. You can see the difference between the marks it makes on lead vs zinc or steel as well as the sound.
    Excellent, thanks! I'll give it a go when we start sorting the second bucket.

    Those are some nice looking boolits you've got there.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by BearGrillz View Post
    Interesting! I suppose it's just a trial and error sort of business eh? Do you down load based on the formulas set out in the lee book? I was intending on starting about 0.5 gr below minimum and working up from there.
    I don't know what book you are using. You mention the Lee manual, which some deride. I think the Lee manual is very useful, and I have #1 on PDF, and #2 hardcopy. I reference both regularly.

    Get yourself a Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, either #3 or #4. It uses different powders than some other manuals.

    Casting opens an entire new aspect of loading, and allows you to move from reloading to handloading. If you go slowly, and pay attention, you will start developing "off book" loads safely.

    The panoply of projectiles (boolits, if you will) available to the caster are vast in comparison to store-bought. One can tailor loads to one's wishes - be it a heavy for caliber bruiser, or a light casual shooting load.

    I regularly shoot 9mm at ~950 - 1000 fps, and the brass just drops in a pile at my feet.
    I can load 44 Mag at 800 fps, and my wife can shoot it as long as she pleases (and cackle with her friends -"I fired a 44 Mag yesterday, it was no problem at all!").

    Enjoy yourself in the new book you've opened. I'm certain you'll start saving money very shortly.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master

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    Wow, I have to say the you approached this with your mind first and avoided many of the early pitfalls. I have a feeling that many good boolits are in your future! I have been casting for around 30 years and I almost find it as much fun as shooting, almost. I find the rewarding part to be picking up an old and odd mould and working with the historic load date or non-existent published data and working up a load that meets or exceeds accuracy expectations. The downside... I have somewhere around 70 Ideal and Lyman moulds plus the moulds from LBT, NOE, Lee and Arsenal that I store and maintain.

    My 16yo daughter loves to do my lube sizing and also loves to do PC for me. She has cast a couple of times and really likes that as well, she will be hooked. She has reloaded a few 38's and 223's under close supervision and loves to empty 9's, 32 H&R's, 38's and 45's. She is small at 5'3" and has small hands, she can't deal with L and N frame revolvers but loves J and K frames and 1911's. And OMG if you put an AR in her hands, you had better hide some of the ammo supply if you want to shoot.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Welcome to the hobby of casting. I looks like you are off to a good start.

    Don't let sorting weights get you down. After you have sorted a few buckets worth you get a feel for spotting the zinc and iron ones and you won't have to cut every one.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bookworm View Post
    Sigh.... At the risk of sounding like a school master....

    A "vice" is something one does: smoke, drink, chase skirts, shoot cast boolits, etc.

    A "vise" is a device one uses to hold something stationary.

    Sorry, I can't stop myself. Refer to my screen name.

    Now, back to our regularly scheduled programming....
    I have to bite my tongue at times , our old English teachers insisted on proper spelling and usage , seeing the lack of correct spelling/usage makes me wonder what they teach in school now...how to use apps I guess.
    I'm giving you a big ATTABOY for trying to do it right !
    Certified Cajun
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    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  9. #29
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    "To" used in lieu of "too" irks me. I can't explain why. The Lyman books are highly recommended for good reason. Enjoy the ride!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    Boolit Master daloper's Avatar
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    When I sort WW I run them across a piece of threaded rod. You will learn quickly how to tell the lead for the steel and zinc.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master

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    Great job. Congratulations on you first effort!
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  12. #32
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Good looking boolits on your part Bear. Welcome to the board and congrats for the effort. My first attempt looked like anything but that. The best part about casting is that you will never be at the mercy of the manufacturer again. You might not have exactly what you want but you will have something to shoot.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!

  13. #33
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    You on a good start. If you may get a Lee hardness tester that way you will know what BHN to cast for .I see you ask how hard to cast for . The tester have the information you looking for on the chart that comes with it. I do not drop my boolits in water I just air cool my.I rum my in a lube sizer and make my own lube. It works for me. Like also stated about the Lyman cast book .I learn from the 3rd ed. Welcome to the fun. it just a start. as for smelting your WW just do it with low heat and all the zinc will float for you.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy
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    I actually just bought a MP molds 145gr rn bb in 9mm. 6cav, brass, it rains boolits. I'm hopefully going to test the first lot this coming monday with universal powder. I've been struggling with the hitek coating, though that's probably down to me not paying full attention to the instructions..

  15. #35
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bookworm View Post
    I don't know what book you are using. You mention the Lee manual, which some deride. I think the Lee manual is very useful, and I have #1 on PDF, and #2 hardcopy. I reference both regularly.

    Get yourself a Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, either #3 or #4. It uses different powders than some other manuals.

    Casting opens an entire new aspect of loading, and allows you to move from reloading to handloading. If you go slowly, and pay attention, you will start developing "off book" loads safely.

    The panoply of projectiles (boolits, if you will) available to the caster are vast in comparison to store-bought. One can tailor loads to one's wishes - be it a heavy for caliber bruiser, or a light casual shooting load.

    I regularly shoot 9mm at ~950 - 1000 fps, and the brass just drops in a pile at my feet.
    I can load 44 Mag at 800 fps, and my wife can shoot it as long as she pleases (and cackle with her friends -"I fired a 44 Mag yesterday, it was no problem at all!").

    Enjoy yourself in the new book you've opened. I'm certain you'll start saving money very shortly.
    I've read both Modern Reloading 1st and 2nd edition, and have 2nd edition in hardcover. I grab the majority of my data from the 2nd edition. I agree that the Lee manuals are very useful, I like the way he explains pressure. I've also read From Ingot to Target: Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunners that I found in the stickies. The Lynman Cast Bullet Handbook #4 is certainly next on the list.

    I certainly see how referencing information changes when you have the freedom to change your boolit. Currently I'm trying to understand how seating depth affects powder selection and charge reduction. It appears that I'll have to seat these boolits around 0.100" deeper than what the Lee manual lists as minimum COAL. I've got the impression that I have to select a slower powder and reduce the charge considerably.

    I've got an eye on a couple of other molds now too! The prospect of such a wide selection of projectiles is exciting to say the least.

    Well I'll certainly enjoy myself but I don't know if I'll be saving any money

  16. #36
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks for such a warm welcome everyone! I appreciate all of the words of wisdom you've given me. I've got some more strategies to try with wheel weight sorting that I know my hands will appreciate, there are more molds that I have a feeling will be added to the collection and I've got a ton of encouragement to keep going down this rabbit hole.

    You're all a good bunch of folks.

    So I've gone ahead and slugged my bore (0.3565) and measured my boolits (0.3570-0.3575). I've loaded a couple dummy rounds and it seems like I'll have to seat these boolits at 1.065" COAL maximum.

    Once I figured this out I seated a projectile in to a flared case then pulled it to find that it was getting swaged down. After some research I ordered a 38 S&W expander plug for my Lee Powder through expanding die. Hopefully this expands the case to 0.358 as expected and my boolits keep their shape.

    The biggest decision I have to make right now is selecting a good powder to meet these conditions. Due to the shallow seating depth I'm most concerned about a powder that has a larger margin or error allowable. From what I understand, fast powders with small case capacities can cause big problems. What would be some good choices for a slower burning powder for a 9mm 130gr projectile seated to 1.065" COAL?

  17. #37
    Boolit Master


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    BearGrillz,

    Welcome to the forum and the addition. Sounds like you and your shoot mate are having a ball casting. I’m curious about one thing you mentioned- getting a bigger fan. What is the purpose of the fan? The reason I ask is that it could be working against you by cooling what you’re trying to heat.

    I admire and applaud the methodical approach you’ve taken. It is putting you ahead of the typical learning curve of new casters.

    While the pressure of the 9mm is high the surface area of the base of the boolit is small so you need a firm but not super hard alloy. As others mentioned they’re pushing larger boolits faster with straight COWW alloy. Just something to consider. Have fun!
    Last edited by David2011; 07-19-2019 at 01:03 AM.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  18. #38
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    BearGrillz,

    Welcome to the forum and the addition. Sounds like you and your shoot mate are having a ball casting. I’m curious about one thing you mentioned- getting a bigger fan. What is the purpose of the fan? The reason I ask is that it could be working against you by cooling what you’re trying to heat.

    I admire and applaud the methodical approach you’ve taken. It is putting you ahead of the typical learning curve of new casters.

    While the pressure of the 9mm is high the surface area of the base of the boolit is small so you need a firm but not super hard alloy. As others mentioned they’re pushing larger boolits faster with straight COWW alloy. Just something to consider. Have fun!
    Thanks for the warm welcome!

    The large fan is to generate airflow in the garage so that we can keep from inhaling the fumes from the melt. It proved to be most required when we were rendering wheel weights. During casting we figured out that hotter seems to work better so I agree with your advice to keep the fan from blowing at the pot and mold.

    Thanks for the compliment! I try my best to search out plenty of information before I take on a new hobby, especially if that hobby is safety sensitive. I figure it's easier to learn from others mistakes.

    I was planning on using straight COWW and possibly water quenching if required. Do you figure that quenching may be unnecessary due to the small surface area of the base?

  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Except for doing a few experiments I have never water quenched. Play around a little bit with it and see what you think.

  20. #40
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BearGrillz View Post
    Thanks for the welcome! I was quite pleased with the bullets myself! I certainly won't hesitate to ask as far as I can tell the community here is pretty excellent. I'm happy to hear that 9mm is working for you, it gives me hope. What sort of lube do you run if you're not powdercoating? Do you find it necessary to water quench after casting (assuming you're using wheel weight alloy?
    Sorry to take so long to get back to you. I made what can only be called a concoction for my lube i wish i could remember what was in it. It had a lot of stuff in it lithium grease stp atf vasoline alox bees wax parifin wax not sure what else or how much of each. But it works great in my pistols and rifles both. I was just about out but brother returned some as he quit loading so i can go a while longer before i have to make some again. Will write down what i use this time. Last time i went out with mini 30 fired 500 rds came home ran a swab with hoppes then a brush then a patch the second patch came out clean. Now these were gas checked so i am sure that helped. The bore on this gun has also been polished. But i was surprised at how easy it was cleaned.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check