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Thread: Loose ejector rods

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy curioushooter's Avatar
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    Loose ejector rods

    I recently traded for a very handsome S&W Model 19-3. After inspecting and cleaning it I noticed that the ejector rod was loose and would rotate vs. the cylinder. I hand tightened it down, but I suspect this will be an ongoing problem.

    Is this something to put into a vise and tighten down? The piece seems basically unused. The blueing was still between the cylinder stop cuts for example.

    I now know why people love those K-frames. Their size is just right.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


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    I put mine in a padded vise and turn the cylinder with two .357Max cases. Or .445 Cases or .460 cases, even 32H&R Mag for my Old Colt Police Positive.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    The vice method or a little bitty drop of blue lock-tite should do it.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Bit of rubber around it and tighten with pliers.lh thread .

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    just remember that it is "righty loosey, lefty tightee," and go with a vise, some leather and a couple of spent cartridges. Remove the crane from the revolver by removing the screw at the front of the side plate and then withdraw the cylinder from the crane. Insert the two spent cartridge cases on opposite sides of the cylinder and wrap the ejector rod with a piece of leather, then clamp the ejector rod in the vice and turn the cylinder to the left until it is snug. Ta da! you're done.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy curioushooter's Avatar
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    Thanks. Will do. I already took it all apart. Sometimes you really wish guns could talk. Things I've noticed so far:

    That rear sideplate screw is boogered up. Looks like it was flied down and re-blued so the rear grip panel (aftermarket) would fit better. At least this is invisible.

    I think they switched the two other sideplate screws and didn't put them back in the right place. They look identical, which is unlike my newer Smiths.

    Not a spec of lubricant to be found. Dry as a bone.

    This model 19-3 appears to be not a "combat magnum." It doesn't say that anywhere on it, and it has a wide flattened target trigger and target hammer and a frame mounted trigger overtravel stop installed...surely factory work. It is pinned and recessed.


    The front sight (which I assume is pinned but I can't see the pin) is loose. Goes forward and backward slightly. Any reccomendations on a remedy for that situation?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by curioushooter View Post
    Thanks. Will do. I already took it all apart. Sometimes you really wish guns could talk. Things I've noticed so far:

    That rear sideplate screw is boogered up. Looks like it was flied down and re-blued so the rear grip panel (aftermarket) would fit better. At least this is invisible.

    I think they switched the two other sideplate screws and didn't put them back in the right place. They look identical, which is unlike my newer Smiths.

    Not a spec of lubricant to be found. Dry as a bone.

    This model 19-3 appears to be not a "combat magnum." It doesn't say that anywhere on it, and it has a wide flattened target trigger and target hammer and a frame mounted trigger overtravel stop installed...surely factory work. It is pinned and recessed.


    The front sight (which I assume is pinned but I can't see the pin) is loose. Goes forward and backward slightly. Any reccomendations on a remedy for that situation?
    I have a 649-2 I bought new the rear sideplate screw is like the one you describe (except for the blue) it came that way.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    One of the sideplate screws is meant to be flat, but not boogered up of course. As for the front sight, I would spray around it well with carb or brake clean and blow it out well with compressed air and let a drop or two of LocTite flood around the sight and barrel joint. Wipe off the excess and let it sit a day or two.

  9. #9
    Boolit Man

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    The padded pliers thing works, but Brownell's sells a tool for that, isn't real spendy, it's worth picking up.
    This one will do several diameters/brands of ejector rods, and they also sell one just for S&W revolvers that is about half the price of this one.
    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod26662.aspx

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Murphy's Avatar
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    All good advice above.

    A couple of quick notes about ejector rods and side plate screws.

    If you remove the crane and cylinder, leave the crane in place when you tighten the ejector rod. This helps keep it lined up and lessens any chance of slightly bending it. Also, at some point in time S&W changed the threads from right to left (around 1960).

    Side plate screws. The upper rear screw typically is flat, but not always. Some variations had rounded head screws in that hole as well. You'll see older sets of S&W grips with an indentation that allowed them to lay flat. It will be at the top right hand panel. Also, at one time decades back, the screw that retains the cylinder crane, would be different in length as opposed to the one directly behind the trigger guard. While they may look identical they can be different in length. Should you ever remove a side plate, lay the screws out exactly as they came out of the gun. Getting the wrong one in the wrong hole will result in your cylinder not wanting to swing open freely. Just my experience anyway.

    Nice score on the Model 19.

    Murphy
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    You should not put Loctite on the S&W ejector rod threads. Much better to spend the $20 and do it right.

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...Tyj11uTC%3A2Y0

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy curioushooter's Avatar
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    I put mine in a padded vise and turn the cylinder with two .357Max cases. Or .445 Cases or .460 cases, even 32H&R Mag for my Old Colt Police Positive.
    How do you prevent busting the two pins that align the star?

    Do you partially eject those 357 max cases so the pins are not contacting the star?

    You are putting the front part of the ejector rod in a padded vise I assume?

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I have always done 1 drop of blue locktight on the degreased rod let it dry , hold the cylinder with my hand wrap the rod with leather and with pliers gently tighten.....it’s not a very big screw , I have never had a problem removing them the same way.

  14. #14
    Boolit Man Buzz Krumhunger's Avatar
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    Use empty cases to keep the strain off the two little pins when you tighten the rod. Be careful. The threads on the rod are fine and its easy to accidentally bend/damage the rod with improvised methods. This is why the additional fine control afforded by the dedicated tool sold by Brownells is so beneficial. You can hold the cylinder in one hand and turn the cylinder rod tool with the other.
    Last edited by Buzz Krumhunger; 07-20-2019 at 06:20 AM.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzz Krumhunger View Post
    Use empty cases to keep the strain off the two little pins when you tighten the rod. Be careful. The threads on the rod are fine and it’s easy to accidentally bend/damage the rod with improvised methods. This is why the additional fine control afforded by the dedicated tool sold by Brownells is so beneficial. You can hold the cylinder in one hand and turn the cylinder rod tool with the other.
    /\ Good advice

    I'll add that while the cylinder is out of the frame that's a good time to disassemble the entire cylinder/ejector rod/ejector and clean everything. After you get it clean, lightly oil the parts and springs. The threads to the ejector rod should be de-greased (acetone or alcohol works well) and a tiny drop of blue Loctite placed on the threads before reassembly.

    I always put empty, unsized casings in ALL of the chambers before tightening or loosening the ejector rod.

    I'll second the practice of using a dedicated tool to tighten the ejector rod. While other methods will safely work, I find that you have more control with the parts in your hands instead of one side in a vise. YMMV.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Combat magnum, Combat Masterpiece, Chief's Special,- the names were never on the guns themselves- only model numbers under the crane afaik.

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  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master
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    And concerning the side plate screw above the trigger that secures the crane in the frame - on the older models that screw was fitted at the factory to be the exact length needed. (filed to length to retain the crane and still allow the crane to freely swing open) The newer models had a little spring loaded detent in the screw that eliminated the need for that hand fitting.
    When dealing with either type, it is important to keep that screw associated with that particular threaded hole. Same holds true for the other screws - they all need to go back in the particular place they were removed from.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy curioushooter's Avatar
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    The ejector rod problem has been fixed to satisfaction. Dissassembling, cleaning it, and lubricating it have done wonders. I did not use loctite. Just a gentle snugging with the rod retained in leather vice jaws and two fired 357 MAX cases straddling the star pins. I hasn't come loose so far.

    The front sight is still moving back and forth a bit. It doesn't seem to matter since it doesn't effect windage or elevation. But it bothers me.

    Plus I have an extra Dawson Precision fiberoptic sight that could go in there I think.

    The sight must be retained by a perpendicular pin. The hole in the sight must be too big which is why its going back and forth.

    The problem is that I can't see the pin. It appears that it was polished after the sight was pinned and then blued over.

    I was thinking of dabbing evapo-rust on the sides to try and get the pin to present itself. But I might have to use a more aggressive rust remover.

    I have replaced sights on S&Ws before. Ticklish work but all of them have been stainless so far, and that makes it a whole lot easier because the pins are obvious and if you booger something you just polish it out.

    That finish on the M19 is gorgeous.

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