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Thread: Flintlock Lube

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



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    Flintlock Lube

    Can I get some advice and opinions on what kind of lube to use on moving parts of the lock. Especially, the screw that the sear pivots on. Maybe different things in different places. Iím into precision shooting, so want to get as smooth as possible. I have been using castor oil, partly because I have a free source for the amounts I use. Also works great for case lube.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use Super Lube, have the pen type dispenser. Easy to apply where you want it. Suspect any good lube would work as well.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy

    Buzzard II's Avatar
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    I use Kroil. Thin and gets everywhere. Timney Triggers suggests washing with white gas and lubing with lighter fluid. Choice is yours. Check out L&R Locks to see what they recommend in a side lock. Good shooting.
    Bob
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master



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    I have a friend who says he uses nothing, but a little grease where the main spring rides on the tumbler. Does that make any sense ?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    rfd's Avatar
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    after a range session the flint lock gets pulled and set into a pail of plain tepid tap water, whilst i work on the gun's tube. later, the lock is removed from the water, excess water shaken off, towel patted dry, spritzed all over with wd40 which is then towel patted off. then, all the moving parts get a very tiny pin drop of quality high speed fishing reel oil (i use quantums "hot sauce" that has a needle applicator), the moving parts are exercised, done.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Nobade's Avatar
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    I can tell you've done this before...
    "Quemadmoeum gladis nemeinum occidit, occidentis telum est."

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I wash it in warm water and Dawn. Then blow it off and douse with WD-40. Then I let all of that drain off that will, and I hit the moving parts with some 3in1 machine oil from one of those little needle applicator bottles.
    KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy arcticap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    Can I get some advice and opinions on what kind of lube to use on moving parts of the lock. Especially, the screw that the sear pivots on. Maybe different things in different places. I’m into precision shooting, so want to get as smooth as possible. I have been using castor oil, partly because I have a free source for the amounts I use. Also works great for case lube.
    Thanks
    Graphite powder.

    Even locksmiths recommend it for keyed locks because it's a dry lube.
    And graphite powder also helps to protect BP lock parts from becoming sticky or gummy from black powder residue.
    Last edited by arcticap; 07-11-2019 at 09:01 PM.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master



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    Does anyone else use graphite? I’ve thought about it too.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master FrontierMuzzleloading's Avatar
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    all those petros!

    Keep it simple, a little bit of crisco or your favorite patch lube on the frizzen spring and lock internals and you're good to go.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Hanshi's Avatar
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    There are a mind-blowing variety of good lubricants available for just about any job. I use whatever my hand happens to fall on when I reach for a can of lube. Some are maybe a little better than others in the minds of shooters. But then some like Chevys and some like Toyotas; take your pick.
    Young guys should hang out with old guys; old guys know stuff.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy arcticap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    Does anyone else use graphite? I’ve thought about it too.
    I learned about it from a poster on another forum who touted using it on the internals of his cap & ball revolvers.
    He swore by it as a manner of speaking.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    My locks are only washed once a year. Barrels are indeed washed after each use.
    After a wash & dry a all over cotton swab of Clenzoil in the beginning. Touching up those pins fly & sear once more: Warm months? Break Free. Cold months? Rem oil. A long standing practice with me.
    "JUST A OLD DEPLORABLE THAT'S IRREDEEMABLE."

  14. #14
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


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    I use Ed's Red.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  15. #15
    Boolit Master


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    3 in 1 oil, for my locks and triggers, or Rem Oil, or what ever light oil I have laying around. I’m not picky.
    WWW.flintknappers.com/lithicarts Traditional items for the traditional hunter.

    Tyrants use the force of the people to chain and subjugate-that is, enyoke the people. They then plough with them as men do with oxen yoked. Thus the spirit of liberty and innovation is reduced by bayonets, and principles are struck dumb by cannon shot: Albert Pike, Morals and Dogma

  16. #16
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


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    Quote Originally Posted by Boerrancher View Post
    3 in 1 oil, for my locks and triggers, or Rem Oil, or what ever light oil I have laying around. Iím not picky.
    Hey Joe, hadn't seen you post in quite awhile!
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  17. #17
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Hey Joe, hadn't seen you post in quite awhile!
    Yeah Ric It has been awhile. Lot of Major life changes over the past five years. Most of which for the better. I am still running the 50cal Hawken flinter I got from 45Nut, and the old Northwest Trade Gun, as well as my little 32 cal Crockett. Every time I would go to a match with that Trade gun and beat the pants off the guys shooting rifles, I would remember all the advice I got from you. The last couple years I’ve been getting my butt kicked by a teenager. Younger eyes I am sure.

    Best wishes

    Joe
    WWW.flintknappers.com/lithicarts Traditional items for the traditional hunter.

    Tyrants use the force of the people to chain and subjugate-that is, enyoke the people. They then plough with them as men do with oxen yoked. Thus the spirit of liberty and innovation is reduced by bayonets, and principles are struck dumb by cannon shot: Albert Pike, Morals and Dogma

  18. #18
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


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    Quote Originally Posted by Boerrancher View Post
    Yeah Ric It has been awhile. Lot of Major life changes over the past five years. Most of which for the better. I am still running the 50cal Hawken flinter I got from 45Nut, and the old Northwest Trade Gun, as well as my little 32 cal Crockett. Every time I would go to a match with that Trade gun and beat the pants off the guys shooting rifles, I would remember all the advice I got from you. The last couple years Iíve been getting my butt kicked by a teenager. Younger eyes I am sure.

    Best wishes

    Joe
    Glad to hear things are getting better. Young people should be required to shoot with their eyes closed to give us old farts a chance!
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    To get back on subject so far I've taken the lock out when I clean my rifle, scrub the innards with a toothbrush and Moose Milk, and then when it's dry hit it again with a tooth brush and wax. It still shoots quick and I've seen no rust so I guess it works.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    I think any good gun oil wil be just fine. If you are into "precision shooting" I think you should be concerned with tuning your lock(s). On any new lock I get, I take it down to the bare plate, then smooth and polish the inner surface. Also round over any sharp edges on all moving parts. I then take a tiny bit off the inner edge of the main spring, sear and sear spring and the inner tumbler surface. The object is to remove as much friction as possible. Overkill? Maybe, but it speeds up the lock a lot! I use bear grease as lock lube because I have a bunch.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check