RotoMetals2RepackboxWidenersMidSouth Shooters Supply
Load DataInline FabricationLee PrecisionTitan Reloading
Reloading Everything Snyders Jerky
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Repairing the Older Lee Auto Prime Link

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master


    missionary5155's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Temporarily near Orlando FL
    Posts
    7,133

    Repairing the Older Lee Auto Prime Link

    Greetings
    Doctor Bill showed nicely how to repair a broken handle in a previous post.
    As I have repaired the link where the small pivot broke off I decided to show how it was done.
    The two attached photos give a pretty good idea what to do.

    First I drilled the broke off "pivot" and expoxied two steel rods in it. These are to stabilize the pivot to the arm.
    The two rods were then bent to the shape needed so the pivot would sit in the proper place where it broke off and follow the shape of the link arm.
    Then pivot and rods were expoxied to the link and permitted to dry 24 hours.
    This expoxy was then trimmed as needed so the link would function correctly and without any binding.
    Then the pivot area was expoxied on the other side of the link to better support it. Again trim any excess expoxy for free movement.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Lee Link B.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	27.4 KB 
ID:	245205Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Lee Link A.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	36.4 KB 
ID:	245206

    The first photo shows the two rods expoxied in place. Much more expoxy thickness can be added up from the pivot area.
    The second photo shows the link installed after trimming and fitting.

    If I was to do it again maybe add a 3rd rod to be attached to the reverse side to add strength for any possible flexing.
    Only time will tell how long the fix will last. But just today I used the tool to prime some 38 Special brass. I think as long as the tool is not roughly used the fix will hold as it is generally a straight push along the access of the link.
    Why did mine break originally. I was priming some S&B brass and did not notice the primer pockets were not beveled. Guess what is the weak point of the link ????
    Mike in Peru.... Where there are no spare complete tools available … let alone parts.
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    Bookworm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Central Oklahoma, on a dirt road.
    Posts
    1,186
    Necessity is the mother of inventions.

    Good thinking on the repair. I would think that a somewhat larger diameter steel pin would help longevity, but perhaps hinder fitting the rod to the bend of the handle.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master


    missionary5155's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Temporarily near Orlando FL
    Posts
    7,133
    Good morning
    I pondered the thicker diameter rods but I chose the ones I did as they are good steel yet they were still flexible enough to make the bends needed. As I used two with the same parallel holes though the pivot I also wondered about weakening that pivot and it splitting.
    Sadly that "link" is made out of at best aluminum. Or is it zinc ?
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  4. #4
    Banned

    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    1,419
    Years ago I called Lee and they sent me one! As I recall it arrived in 2 days too!

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master


    missionary5155's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Temporarily near Orlando FL
    Posts
    7,133
    Years ago I bought one from Lee to have a spare. Had to use it up there in ILLinois.
    Then down here in LLama Land my link broke and I quickly tired of seating primers with a hammer on a flat steel surface. Should have bought a dozen.
    I am considering making one from a chunk of aluminum. As I have a working tool again I have the time off and on. Mild steel would be a forever fix.
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master dbosman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    East Lansing, MI, USA
    Posts
    1,995
    If you have, or have access to, a 3d printer, you can make new links.
    STL file is here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2485585
    Some filing or sanding will be necessary.
    Many public libraries have 3D printers in "Maker Spaces".
    One can print new trays, too.

  7. #7
    Boolit Man
    Gaseous Maximus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    oklahoma city
    Posts
    92
    That's a real neat repair. I am not trying to sound like a smart a-- ,and probably don't fully understand the situation, but Lee, about 25 or so years ago started making that link out of steel.
    Oklahoma. Quite possibly the reddest state in the U.S.A. 77 counties, 2 elections, and not a single one went for B.O. Uh make that 3 elections, we didn't care much for Hillary either.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check