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Thread: Cleaning NOE RG4 Mold? - Pins always stuck on me

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Cleaning NOE RG4 Mold? - Pins always stuck on me

    I've got a 147gr RG4 mold that I got new years ago and need to clean it and recondition it. What's the best way? I never was able to get the pins to release with ease like I wanted. I like to shoot 147gr 9mm and can't remember if running the flat pins makes it a 150gr or not. I picked up a used 135gr that drops beauties when I couldnt get the 147gr to drop right.

    That said, I have a two new aluminum molds I need to prep. I'm going to clean them with dawn, boil them them, then heat cycle a few times in the oven.

    I'd like to do this to the 147gr NOE but should clean it first right? Clean the pins on the mold when doing this?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    Burnt Fingers's Avatar
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    I remove the pins when prepping or cleaning an RG mold.

    Take a carpenters pencil and coat the working ends of those pens in graphite.

    Also you need to run those RG molds HOT. That especially means the pins.
    NRA Benefactor.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master waco's Avatar
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    Yep. Heat, heat, heat. A hot pin is a happy pin!
    The fear of the Lord is the beginning of knowledge: but fools despise wisdom and instruction.
    Proverbs 1:7

  4. #4
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    Cleaning NOE RG4 Mold? - Pins always stuck on me
    what needs cleaning?
    As to the pins, if they have been an issue for you continuously since you bought it new, then I'd polish them (the area where they contact lead), then remove any remaining coating of wax/polish from them, then I'd apply the smallest amount of soot from a butane lighter, a coating so thin that you don't see it. Then I would cast with it, there is a break-in time with the metal pins after it's been polished and super cleaned,,,maybe 3 or 4 casting sessions, then a patina (oxide layer) develops which aids in the release of the boolits. The mold should be casting great HP after all that.
    ALSO, as Waco stated, the pins like to be run HOT.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Beagle333's Avatar
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    I spin my pins (by hand) against some 1000 grit paper and get them mirror slick, then I use the pencil shading technique to coat them with graphite. Once they get to casting temp they won't need any more graphite, it just helps at the start. Cast fast, don't stop and admire or cull them, don't mess with putting your sprues back in the pot, just cast, cast, cast. Once you get to your "sweet spot" for your temp and they start dropping perfectly every time, then you can start to fiddle around between pours and cull or put sprues back.
    KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master


    stubshaft's Avatar
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    Veral at LBT makes little graphite sticks o lube for mold pins. It is all I have used for over 40 years.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!

    Men who don't understand women fall into two categories: bachelors and husbands!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I had sticky pins on my first NOE mold. I took the pins out and turned on the bench top grinder/polisher with a buffing wheel on it. Wiped some Jewelers Rouge on the wheel and polished them up. No more sticky pins. As for the mold blocks, I boiled all the parts with Dawn dish soap in a sauce pot.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Teemu's Avatar
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    Some times you need to polish also those slots where pins are mounted. I mean those L looking metal pieces. Sorry my bad English can't explain right words. I noticed there could be some burr etc. after making those slots. If those pins can't move smoothly it also could hinder that mold isn't work properly

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    When I take my molds out of storage I scrub them under running hot tap water using a toothbrush and Dawn Dish washing liquid, then a hot tap water rinse. If I have any doubts a scrub with acetone should remove any residual oil. As far as the pins I polished all of mine using a Dremel with a buffing pad and white cake buffing compound. This leaves the pins with a mirror finish. If I need any more help on bullet release I coat pins & mold surfaces with #2 pencil lead. Molds with pins need to run hot; turn the pot up to 850 degrees, check alloy temp with a thermometer and start casting with a preheated mold. Go slow to allow mold to heat up. When the bullets frost adjust the temp to your liking. For me I PC and I like a light frosted bullet as they coat well, fill out well and drops out easy.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    I give my pins a slight polish on a buffing wheel. But as others have said, heat is your friend! I keep a tiny torch handy and when the mould is hot enough to start, I torch the pins and they will release after that. If they are cold you will know, takes pliers to pull the bullet off.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master gpidaho's Avatar
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    Before heating my moulds I put a dab of electrostatic silicone grease between my thumb and first finger and rub a light coat on the pins. I don't know how long the coating holds up but it does help with bullet release until the pins heat up. Buffing of the pins helps a lot also. Gp

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check