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Thread: Flintlock question

  1. #1

    Flintlock question

    My Flint measures 1" long. It rests on the frizzen, well just touching. Is this wrong? This is the lock on my Northwest trade gun. It appears my frizzen has been resoled I guess lol.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Try to find a shorter flint, or if you use a leather wrap on the flint, cut a
    notch in the leather wrap to allow the flint to seat on the cock screw
    should allow the flint to move back off the frizzen. You just have to
    learn to fit the flint, took me awhile to learn too.

  3. #3
    Boolit Man frogleg's Avatar
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    It should Not touch at Half Cock but it might be close.
    A Boy in a Old Man's Body. I Shoulda Been a Cowboy

  4. #4
    leather wrap on it already and its notched. What im wondering is if its normal for the locks to vary that much in size.

    Andy

  5. #5
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


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    You may need smaller flints. You do want a bit of clearance. Not all locks are created the same. You could make a small notch in the back of the flint to use up the ones you have, then get a smaller size next time.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texasgunnut View Post
    My Flint measures 1" long. It rests on the frizzen, well just touching. Is this wrong? This is the lock on my Northwest trade gun. It appears my frizzen has been resoled I guess lol.
    If your frizzen has been resoled, the geometry of the lock can change and cause the flint to hit too high on the frizzen. So, you'll need to keep the flint further away from the frizzen and probably bevel down. Otherwise you'll get flint bashing and misfires. Been there done that with an original 1816.

  7. #7
    Is there someone i can send it to be checked or is it something i can do myself?

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texasgunnut View Post
    Is there someone i can send it to be checked or is it something i can do myself?
    You don't need to do anything mechanical. Just position the flint so it strikes the frizzen about 1/3 of the way down. That way it scrapes the face rather than hitting head on. The flint will probably be shorter. By the way, you can cut your flints shorter with a Dremmel diamond cutting wheel. Works great.

  9. #9
    awesome ty guys.

  10. #10
    This is what half cock looks like.Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texasgunnut View Post
    This is what half cock looks like.Click image for larger version. 

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    The picture tells the story. Looking at the seam from the resole, you can see that space between the edge of the flint and the frizzen face would be fine without the added thickness. Cut your existing stock of flints with the dremmel wheel and you're good to go.

  12. #12
    I knapped it way back showers Sparks now. Need to find a small hunk of brass to use for knapping. Used a ole galvanized pipe elbow but it was clumsy.

  13. #13
    Boolit Man
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    Use copper for knapping, it is softer than brass and gets a better bite on the flint.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    most muzzle loading suppliers sell them,if you choose to not make one.

  15. #15
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    notch the back of the flint's already too thick leather - that will set the flint back to touch the cock screw and will allow the necessary space 'tween the flint's edge and the hammer steel (frizzen). use a thinner leather flint leather in the future.

  16. #16
    the back of the flint is cut out the flint is all the way against the screw. Thanks for all the replies guys i appreciate your knowledge.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by reddhawkk View Post
    Use copper for knapping, it is softer than brass and gets a better bite on the flint.
    A deer antler works best. I keep a long tine about 6 inches and use it to pressure flake the edge and keep it sharp. I also make my own flints. They last longer and you can use all 4 sides of them. I made some several years ago for Dirt Farmer at a Rendezvous we were at, he got if I remember correctly well over 200 shots from one of my flints. If he sees this post maybe he can recall the exact number. If you have questions about pressure flaking flints or even knapping your own there are lots of videos on flint knapping. I donít make the traditional European flints, I make the same style as the Indians did. It is more work but they last longer.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check