HELP RF Firing pin Barely Hits Rim!

[uscra112]

I proceed on the notion (true or not) that the original setup was more-or-less square and the only variable was wear on the parts as the lever was opened and shut, and the firing stress. In any case, with me it’s been cut-and-try.

Stevens rifles were made to a price, and any hand-fitting on the 44 breech block would be too costly. It’s amazing how well they shoot, even as assembled. I have one wrecked 414 that had an oversized (or off-center forward) hole reamed in the breechblock and frame when I got it as a basket case. I made a slightly small pivot pin out of hardened drill-rod, set back and refitted the barrel, and then lapped the rear of the block and receiver shoulders to a close fit. It does shoot like a house afire, but that was a lot of work. Whether it’s cost-effective is certainly in the eye of the beholder.

Weren’t those stress diagrams on the ASSRA site? I remember seeing them but can’t recall where.

Right. Forgot where I was for a moment there.

You did what I now do - let the breechblock float back into contact with the receiver shoulders, and proceed from there.

I have never had, nor will I likely ever have, a really high grade one to mess about with. Others have said that they were better fitted, but I will never be able to confirm. On such matters hinges the fate of the world. I have noticed that my small sample of the 3-digit models seem to be better made and fitted. In fitting new link pins to a 108 I was surprised to find how much better the case hardening was, compared to the run-of-the-bog 44s. I actually had to pull out a carbide center-drill to break it before my drill would bite.

[Drm50]

I have tightened up quite a few Stevens and H&A 22s that had come loose from wear. It may be a cheap shot but I use a reamer on one side by hand to true up the hole. Then drill through on drill press. Then use the shank of the bit for the pin. The worst cases I get are when previous owners bubba them badly enough holes have to be filled and redrilled.

[Kev18]

I have tightened up quite a few Stevens and H&A 22s that had come loose from wear. It may be a cheap shot but I use a reamer on one side by hand to true up the hole. Then drill through on drill press. Then use the shank of the bit for the pin. The worst cases I get are when previous owners bubba them badly enough holes have to be filled and redrilled.

I was thinking of using a drill bit as a pin also but I was worried that they could be to hard and snap? With the shock from firing or something? I'm not an expert at metallurgy or anything.
Jack of all trades. Master of none.

[uscra112]

Drill shanks are in fact very tough, and make excellent pins, but drills usually cut a hole a couple-or-three thou bigger than the shank, so you start out of the blocks with the action still a bit loose.

[Drm50]

Drill shanks are in fact very tough, and make excellent pins, but drills usually cut a hole a couple-or-three thou bigger than the shank, so you start out of the blocks with the action still a bit loose.

That is very true, like I said it's somewhat of a cheap shot. I turn firing pins out of drill bit shanks too. A little heat treat with a torch and you are in business. Once in a while get one to hard and it snaps. Drill bits are like everything else, don't use cheap HWD store bits to make anything.

[Kev18]

I might give this a shot one day soon... It seems to fire for now.