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Thread: HELP RF Firing pin Barely Hits Rim!

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If you look at the Dixie cases the firing pin was hitting where it should but the case in a case doesn't sit low enough. The rim of the outside case shows where the real rimfire case rim would be at and the 22 case falls short. If these are the cases you will use all the time you need to modify the block and pin to hit the 22 insert case not where the rim should have been.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KCSO View Post
    If you look at the Dixie cases the firing pin was hitting where it should but the case in a case doesn't sit low enough. The rim of the outside case shows where the real rimfire case rim would be at and the 22 case falls short. If these are the cases you will use all the time you need to modify the block and pin to hit the 22 insert case not where the rim should have been.
    The pin barely hits the rim of any Cases. Mine or dixie gun works. Id need to use an original .32 case but Idont want to shoot it.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    When you say the lever "gets loose", do you mean that it drops down by gravity when the action is closed? If so, that's a sure sign that the linkage is loose.
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    When you say the lever "gets loose", do you mean that it drops down by gravity when the action is closed? If so, that's a sure sign that the linkage is loose.
    When the action is closed, the lever flops down half an inch maybe. Its just loose. I can probably improve it by changing the lever screw.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Screw probably won't improve it much. That's the classical symptom of a badly worn link. Just installing a new link will help. Wisners doesn't list them, but Jack First has them.

    https://jack-first-gun-parts.myshopi...gle-shot-rifle

    If it were me, I'd still ream for the oversize pins, but your call. One thing I've observed, though, is that once a Favorite or a Model 44 gets loose, it gets looser faster the looser it is.

    The paucity of ammo is cause enough for most people to abandon the .32s. A .25 RF can be converted to .22 by swapping in a new barrel without too much trouble, but the .32s are a different critter.
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master

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    You said it "I'd need to use original cases". The gun just needs to be reworked for the ammo you have. I would guess a larger pin and a tightening will help if not do the job. If I had it here I would tighten the link and put in new pins and then probably weld up the firing pin hole and make a proper pin. A lot of work but it may be worth it to you. My preferred method is to recut the block to centerfire and rechamber to 32 S and W short. I did this for a buddy and it made a super garden gun. I have the advantage of a machine shop in hand so I usually go way overboard in fixing these. I have in hand now a 25 Favorite that will soon be a 22 LR after fis=xing the block and friing pin and relining the bore.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    Screw probably won't improve it much. That's the classical symptom of a badly worn link. Just installing a new link will help. Wisners doesn't list them, but Jack First has them.

    https://jack-first-gun-parts.myshopi...gle-shot-rifle

    If it were me, I'd still ream for the oversize pins, but your call. One thing I've observed, though, is that once a Favorite or a Model 44 gets loose, it gets looser faster the looser it is.

    The paucity of ammo is cause enough for most people to abandon the .32s. A .25 RF can be converted to .22 by swapping in a new barrel without too much trouble, but the .32s are a different critter.
    If I post a pic of the parts will it help you determine whats wrong, if its the link atleast?

  8. #28
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Do your best. Get as close as you can to the link, and normal to its' plane. But you can better test by trying the pins in the link holes. Also in the holes in the lever and breechblock. But it'll be the link that'll be worst. Just a poor little thin thing stamped out of plain low-carbon sheet steel, they were. Barely even case hardened after 1896. New ones will be much better steel, for starters. The pins would be a light drag fit in a new link, but I'm pretty sure yours will just fall through, rattling as they go. Out of all the '94 Favorites I've bought or come across, maybe one or two really choice ones didn't have a loose linkage. The dozen or two others all needed tightening-up.
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  9. #29
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Here. I dont know if this helps but I can wiggle the parts around freely. I dont know if it normal or not but there's space in-between the moving parts...
    I pushed down on the link so you can see the gap.


  10. #30
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    OK, what you are pointing to is "sideplay", and it is of no consequence.

    Look at the attached markup. What we care about is whether there is play when you push the assembly together and then pull it apart, (long arrows). There should be so little that you can't feel it at all. Easiest to do this with the assembly lying flat on a smooth, hard surface. If there is any play at all, tap out the two pins that I have indicated, and let's have a close look at the holes in the link.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    There is play. And the pins were barely holding in. I didn't even need a punch to get them out.
    Would should I do? Drill out the holes and add bigger pins?


  12. #32
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    That's what I wanted to see. I'm pretty sure the link holes are battered oval just from looking at the picture.

    I described the repair procedure in my post #7. It involves drilling AND REAMING the holes to get a snug fit on the oversize pins. Drilling alone is not precise enough.

    Do you have at least a drill press? Important to keep everything lined up square when you drill. The reaming can ALMOST be done free-hand if your hands are strong and your eyes are keen, but.....
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    That's what I wanted to see. I'm pretty sure the link holes are battered oval just from looking at the picture.

    I described the repair procedure in my post #7. It involves drilling AND REAMING the holes to get a snug fit on the oversize pins. Drilling alone is not precise enough.

    Do you have at least a drill press? Important to keep everything lined up square when you drill. The reaming can ALMOST be done free-hand if your hands are strong and your eyes are keen, but.....
    Ya I have a big drill press. I dont have a reamer tho. I have good metal drill bits I can use... +

  14. #34
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Chucking reamers are cheap. Amazon has them. (Bezos bought out a couple of my favorite small-tool suppliers years ago.)

    https://www.amazon.com/RedLine-Tools...-2-spons&psc=1

    And

    https://www.amazon.com/1575-SPEED-ST...ustrial&sr=1-8

    They've even got the dowel pins.

    https://www.amazon.com/Dowel-Diamete...ustrial&sr=1-5

    Do NOT buy "shelf support" dowel pins. They are not nearly as precisely sized.

    You could get by OK with only the .1575 reamer if cost is an issue.
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  15. #35
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    The Unbrako 4mm pins are a package of 50 or 100. (Doesn't say) I can mail you a couple from my stash at no charge. I had to buy 50, and I won't live long enough to use them all up.
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  16. #36
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Do I actually need a reamer though? I looked at videos and people say you drill a hole 15 thousands smaller and then use a reamer for the final sizing? A drill isn't good enough?

  17. #37
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    I can order a ten piece set on Amazon with prime shipping. It has 3-12mm sizes. Is it good?

  18. #38
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Do I actually need a reamer though? I looked at videos and people say you drill a hole 15 thousands smaller and then use a reamer for the final sizing? A drill isn't good enough?
    In a word, no. Drills cut holes +/- a couple of thousandths. This job needs a couple of "tenths".
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  19. #39
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    I can order a ten piece set on Amazon with prime shipping. It has 3-12mm sizes. Is it good?
    A ten piece set of what? Chucking reamers? Send me the URL for what you're seeing.
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  20. #40
    Boolit Master Traffer's Avatar
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    If you want a standard metric sized reamer (4mm?) You can get them on eBay for One Dollar US. They work fine if you are only doing a few pieces with them and not having to ream a deep hole:
    (eBay links not permitted)
    Also. Very easy to use. If you can chuck them in a drill and twist by hand. On a drill press it is very easy. Just don't spin them fast only hand speed. It's so easy your head will explode.
    Last edited by Mr_Sheesh; 07-14-2019 at 01:52 AM. Reason: eBay links not permitted, sorry

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check