HELP RF Firing pin Barely Hits Rim!

[Kev18]

I have been trying to make .32 RF cases at home. The firing pin barely makes it to the rim and beats up my extractor.

Is there any way to bend the tip of the pin? I tried to make it longer ( I have no idea what im doing) that didnt change anything.

They aren't light strikes either. That main spring is the stiffest one iv'e seen. I can barely cock it. I have tried Ramset cartridges but I hit way to low on the rim so they dont fire. The little winchester ones work.

Dont worry about the rifle Its a steven's favorite. Im try stuff out on it.

Beat up extractor:


Dixie gun works .32RF case with a .22:

[Traffer]

So the firing pin is out of alignment? I would check the mechanism to see if there is any slop (perhaps worn pivot pins etc) I would say shim before considering bending the firing pin, unless it shows signs of being bent out of shape. I have a 22 revolver that does the same, but it hit's just enough to fire ...every time. But it also dents the cylinder when it fires. I sent it back and basically they would not do anything because it did fire.

[Kev18]

How would I shim this? This fires to just not as reliably as id like.

[pietro]

.

It must be considered that, when both are centered, the .32RF rim edge and the .22RF rim edge are a little too far apart to get consistent ignition with a small FP tip.

IMO, there are two avenues to be explored:

1) Slightly open (drill) the FP hole in the breechblock & make a bigger FP tip (not a bigger FB body) via removing the FP, grinding it's face flat so a sacrificial drill bit of the propped size can be used both to drill the needed holes in both breechblock & FP body, later gringing the drill bit's shank to the correct length as a new/bigger FP tip.

2) Rework the breechblock linkage (etc) to slightly raise the breechblock position when it's all the way "up" (IOW, in battery).


Here's a schematic of the Favorite, so you can see what's going on inside the action.

[indian joe]

How would I shim this? This fires to just not as reliably as id like.

Kev
Fix it properly! At the moment the firing pin is spending its energy against the burred up extractor - strip that rifle down, clean up the burred extractor and make a new firing pin for it - make the pin to fit the breech block so it moves free but not sloppy then you can hand fit the end of the pin to suit the cases -- CAUTION -- test fire it with fired cases first to be sure the pin dont puncture the case - I would go right through that old gun and proly ream and bush the breech block pivot pin (but I like doin that stuff and I have the tools to do it)

[Kev18]

Kev
Fix it properly! At the moment the firing pin is spending its energy against the burred up extractor - strip that rifle down, clean up the burred extractor and make a new firing pin for it - make the pin to fit the breech block so it moves free but not sloppy then you can hand fit the end of the pin to suit the cases -- CAUTION -- test fire it with fired cases first to be sure the pin dont puncture the case - I would go right through that old gun and proly ream and bush the breech block pivot pin (but I like doin that stuff and I have the tools to do it)

I dont have alot of gunsmithing tools... if any! I ordered a new firing pin so il get it soon I hope! Il try making a new firing pin before the other one comes in.

[uscra112]

Something's definitely not right with that Favorite. The firing pin should be hitting higher than that.

So, question #1 is whether the link pins (or the link itself) are worn enough that they aren't lifting the breechblock up into its' proper position. I think that very likely. I'd first take it down and check for free play in the linkage. There should be none, but you won't find it like that. Next drive out the link pins and look at the holes in the link. They are likely to be oval, battered into that shape by long use. That's a '94 Favorite, which has a thin link, which is weak, and to make matters worse the .32 rimfire had the greatest bolt thrust of any cartridge the gun was made for. (The biggest change in the 1915 Favorite was to widen the whole action so the link could be made wider.)

The interim solution is to ream everything and fit larger pins, but the ovality of the holes in the link will tend to draw the reamer off center, so the spacing of the new holes isn't right. Better to buy a new link before you start reaming everything. Wisner's has them.

I drill thru all the holes, lever, link, and breechblock with a #23 drill, then ream them .1570. (Chucking reamer can be bought on Amazon.) Best done on a drill press, to keep everything square, but turn the reamer by hand. It is not a drill. This will leave everything a light drive fit for 4mm hardened steel dowel pins. These are bought from McMaster Carr. They come in packs of fifty, for about $12, but the shipping will almost double that. If that bothers you, I have plenty, and will mail you a pair if you P/M me your address. They have to be shortened, which I can do before I mail them.

At this point the action of opening and closing would be very stiff, so I ream the link to .1575 (another reamer). You could just as well open the link holes a few tenths with abrasive paper on a stick. Don't overdo it!

This treatment should line your firing pin up correctly. However, just looking at that photo, your pin tip doesn't look too healthy, so replacing it seems in order.

[Kev18]

Im not too experienced with gunsmithing here. I do the best I can but still.... I ordered. À new firing pin since I was trying to gring the tip off the other one, and it broke in half.

[Bent Ramrod]

I have a Page-Lewis .22 that has the same firing pin misalignment problem. Spotting an empty case with Dykem Blue and judiciously beveling the lower part of the pin that didn’t touch the case rim reduced the number of times I had to snap it twice to make it fire once significantly. Not completely to zero, but much less exasperating, anyway. Like the 100-lb woman who exerts a thousand pounds pressure (or something) on the end of her high heel because of leverage and surface area, the pin was hitting harder in the right place.

Get some Swiss files for these jobs. Power equipment is for pros that can afford to mess up a bunch of parts learning their trade. That’s the worst problem for us amateurs—we not only haven’t the skill, but we only have one chance to make it right. Go slow.

I’ve not seen a Favorite extractor like yours. All of the Stevens 6-o’clocks I come across have a sort of funneled trough starting where your “battered” area is, narrowing down to nothing after maybe 1/8”. This serves (I guess) to further assist in confining the firing pin strike to the shell rim and also helps to gradually push the pin back into the block as the breech opens and the extractor comes out. A little judicious filing in that area might help some, as well.

These kid’s rifles were made to a price and sometimes on assembly the tolerances all stacked in the wrong direction. Maybe the firing problem is what kept your bore still shootable; the original owner getting frustrated and losing interest. Except for a loose .32 RF barrel I found in pristine condition and married to a junker Low Wall action, all my original Favorites, a Tip-Up and even a 44-1/2 in .32RF were obviously fired a lot and have bores that are hideous to behold.

[uscra112]

Im not too experienced with gunsmithing here. I do the best I can but still.... I ordered. À new firing pin since I was trying to gring the tip off the other one, and it broke in half.

You're good with a camera. Can you post some pics of the broken firing pin?

[Kev18]

I have a Page-Lewis .22 that has the same firing pin misalignment problem. Spotting an empty case with Dykem Blue and judiciously beveling the lower part of the pin that didn’t touch the case rim reduced the number of times I had to snap it twice to make it fire once significantly. Not completely to zero, but much less exasperating, anyway. Like the 100-lb woman who exerts a thousand pounds pressure (or something) on the end of her high heel because of leverage and surface area, the pin was hitting harder in the right place.

Get some Swiss files for these jobs. Power equipment is for pros that can afford to mess up a bunch of parts learning their trade. That’s the worst problem for us amateurs—we not only haven’t the skill, but we only have one chance to make it right. Go slow.

I’ve not seen a Favorite extractor like yours. All of the Stevens 6-o’clocks I come across have a sort of funneled trough starting where your “battered” area is, narrowing down to nothing after maybe 1/8”. This serves (I guess) to further assist in confining the firing pin strike to the shell rim and also helps to gradually push the pin back into the block as the breech opens and the extractor comes out. A little judicious filing in that area might help some, as well.

These kid’s rifles were made to a price and sometimes on assembly the tolerances all stacked in the wrong direction. Maybe the firing problem is what kept your bore still shootable; the original owner getting frustrated and losing interest. Except for a loose .32 RF barrel I found in pristine condition and married to a junker Low Wall action, all my original Favorites, a Tip-Up and even a 44-1/2 in .32RF were obviously fired a lot and have bores that are hideous to behold.

My bore looks new... So i dont know whats up with that.

[Kev18]

Broken firing pin.
It broke right in the thin part when I was holding it in the vise grip. Maybe it was already fractured?

[DrDucati]

I had a firing pin issue with my Favorite. It was a little bent. Have you removed it and confirmed yours is not bent? I def wouldn't try to bend a straight one...that may give misfires due to a short pin.

Edit: oh...nvm, you posted before I did. Probably was in fact bent and that's why it hit low

[uscra112]

For holding little parts like firing pins for filing, a pin vise is the berries.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools...gateway&sr=8-9

If your bore is like new, that action ought still to be tight. Does the lever close with a "snap"?

Hmm. Break like that suggests to me that it was too hard. I've broken one that I made because I didn't temper it enough.

[uscra112]

Here's a much better pin vise. Amazon wanted to hide it but my Google-fu is better than theirs It's the exact one I've been using for years.

https://www.amazon.com/SHAVIV-29057-...gateway&sr=8-3

Midway sells the same one for $40.00 Go figure.

[Kev18]

For holding little parts like firing pins for filing, a pin vise is the berries.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools...gateway&sr=8-9

If your bore is like new, that action ought still to be tight. Does the lever close with a "snap"?

Hmm. Break like that suggests to me that it was too hard. I've broken one that I made because I didn't temper it enough.

Well iv'e never seen that type vise before, il order one ASAP.

Il post pictures of the bore if possible tomorrow. The lever does close really nice. BUUT The screw was originally bent making the lever flop around. I dont know if that means anything...

[uscra112]

Order the second one I posted, the red handle one. MUCH better.

Screw was bent...the lever screw? That might explain a lot. Once again, Wisners has new ones.

http://www.wisnersinc.com/model/stev...889-1894-1915/

Can you turn the lever screw to a position where the lever doesn't flop around?

[Traffer]

I don't want to sound like a jerk but I buy pin vises by the lot for less than a buck apiece from eBay. I have all kinds of sizes and shapes. They are indeed handy. Actually essential for many things.
I just checked out that one you had posted. None of mine are anywhere near as good. None of mine are anywhere as big or flexible. I am tempted to get one of those myself.

[uscra112]

You get what you pay for. Old proverb: Buy cheap, buy twice. The Vargus (Shaviv) with the red handle has a hollow-center chuck, so it can swallow four inches of whatever you're working on. I've used it for irregular parts like extractors, too. They also make the best universal deburring tool I've ever had.

[Kev18]

Order the second one I posted, the red handle one. MUCH better.

Screw was bent...the lever screw? That might explain a lot. Once again, Wisners has new ones.

http://www.wisnersinc.com/model/stev...889-1894-1915/

Can you turn the lever screw to a position where the lever doesn't flop around?

I Tried straightening it out and it worked. Still not 100% but it works alot better. The lever still get's loose though.