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Thread: Remedy for Dull Case Trimmer Cutters

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Remedy for Dull Case Trimmer Cutters

    This might be productive:

    http://blog.woodturnerscatalog.com/2...rrel-trimmers/

    So what I learned there is the method of sharpening that style of cutter is well within the reach of average folk and no special tooling required!

    Next I searched “credit card sharpening stones” and see different brands specs and prices .... economical compared to the brand of stone touted in the video.

    Three44s
    Last edited by Three44s; 07-02-2019 at 10:09 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  2. #2
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I use a small, thin file with that silver grit looking stuff on it, but I thought I was the only one that sharpened those.
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  3. #3
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    I have a friend who's a professional saw sharpener. He gave my case trimmer a quick touch up and wow, it cut like a hot knife through butter. Beter than new.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I have not tried to sharpen mine yet but am contemplating it now. I have been searching the topic on the net for a spell. The thoughts ran from cutters don’t dull they just need to be cleaned to just throw the cutter away and buy a new one.

    I learned something and thought I ought to share!

    Best regards

    Three44s
    Last edited by Three44s; 07-02-2019 at 10:10 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  5. #5
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    cwlongshot's Avatar
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    Carbide cutter is lil costly. But I bit the bullet couple years ago. Im STILL plesantly suprized when I trim a case using it.
    Well worth the 40$ in the long run

    CW
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    georgerkahn's Avatar
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    I got excited and clicked your link, as my Wilson cutter -- after a zillion trimmings -- is not as sharp as when new . However, clicking on your provided link lists their stone for US$36.00; another US$12.71 for the lapping fluid. I don't think I have a thin enough "stone" to use, so I checked out -- prompted by your post -- what a replacement head might run. https://lewilson.com/replacement-case-trimmer-cutter/ lists the entire cutter for thirty dollars -- so this is the route I'll no doubt take. BUT: Thanks both for the "tip" to sharpen!
    geo

  7. #7
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    geo,

    I agree with your conclusion but only to a point.

    I was also put off by the price on the “favored” stone and fluid in the link so I searched further.

    Notice in my original post I mentioned searching “credit card sharpening stones” and found that there are more fish in the pond which bring the cost down significantly.

    Also once one has one of the less expensive stoning tools available it is likely that it would be used for other chores due to it’s portability.

    I did a quick search for “honing fluid” and stumbled into this:

    http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/honingfluid.html

    Baby oil aka mineral oil

    I use WD40 or just water on ordinary stones. In the case of water I will use a good hand dish soap like Dawn and a brush with more water to clean the stone.

    Best regards

    Three44s
    Last edited by Three44s; 07-02-2019 at 08:46 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  8. #8
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    CastingFool's Avatar
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    An old machinist friend recommended a place that sharpens end mills, drill bits, etc. Went in and spoke to one guy, explaining what I needed done. He asked for the cutter and said he would be right back. A few minutes later he handed it back and said no charge.

  9. #9
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    CastingFool,

    With a resource like that I would jump at it as well but I can not even buy a mill cutter in my town since the only store that carried them closed down, much less find a tool sharpener.

    My choices are either do it myself , send it to the manufacturer for them to sharpen at a cost higher than replacing it or buy new. So far it’s been buy new but in watching that video the sharpening is very easy and a bit of twinking around on the net and the thin hone is cheap enough, a bit of baby oil and away I go again.

    With my Lyman universal I spent $42 for a carbide cutter and it is still doing fine after 30 years. I started with a Hornady trimmer but bought the Lyman trimmer when the Hornady went dull.

    Currently I am running the wheels off my Wilson models and that cutter is flattening brass more than I like on a big batch of 223 cases.

    There is no substitute for a sharp clean cut and having a cheap easy way to restore my cutters and have much less deburring and chamfering to do afterwards because the cutter is working right suits me.

    Best regards

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  10. #10
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    I still have a set of small stones from a long long time ago when i did a lot of hand finishing of parts. Don't use much anymore but every now and then they come in handy i touch up my trimmer now and then.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Red Bear has got it ..... “a touch up now and then” .....

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

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    An quick easy sharpening fixture for cutters can be made from a drill press vise and length of angle iron. For sharpening the face edge a 5*-8* base for under the vise. This can be made from hard wood. a small hose clamp to hold cutter. Use a heavier dremil cut off wheel or one of the diamond coated ones. Set in drill press and run at top rpm. Set stop to lightly touch and rotate cutter using vise jaw as a stop for cutter. Clean up all the reliefs. This is preferable as sharpening on the face changes the centerline of the cut. Sharpening a trimmer cutter dosnt take a lot and can be done. Its far easier wen its just a touch p and not completely dull

  13. #13
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    That sounds like a dandy set up. But no more than i do it a quick touch with a stone does me. But if one is not comfortable to keep it straight and even then your set up sounds good.

  14. #14
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    Ive sharpened some for friends that have needed WAY more than just a touch up. One did 30 Herret and 357 Herrets trimming completely in his trimmer. Another did brass by the 5 bucket just in case he needed it someday. One thing that can really help cutter life is a small amount of cutting lube on the case mouth or pilot every few cases. Imperial sizing die wax works good here also.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Never could see taking more than maybe 1/16 to 3/32 with a hand trimmer. Much easier and quicker to use a lathe and a sharp vee tool if there's a lot of case length to remove. Then clean up with the trimmer.
    Cognitive Dissident

  16. #16
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    Never could see taking more than maybe 1/16 to 3/32 with a hand trimmer. Much easier and quicker to use a lathe and a sharp vee tool if there's a lot of case length to remove. Then clean up with the trimmer.
    Some of us are not lucky enough to have access to a lathe. If i have a lot to take off i hit them on a belt sander to get close then finish on trimmer. I would just love to have a small shop plenty of room no funds but one day.
    Thats why i always liked to work in small shops so i could do my projects after work.

  17. #17
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    Tom W.'s Avatar
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    Mine is an RCBS. I just called and asked for a new head....the old
    one would barely cut wind.
    Tom
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    Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?

  18. #18
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    I wonder if an Eze-Lap diamond hone would work for this purpose? Specifically, I wonder if they're thin enough to permit clearance.

    http://eze-lap.com/products/diamond-hone-stone/
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  19. #19
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    Has anyone considered annealing the brass before trimming. If you’re stretched the brass enough to need to trim it. It might be a good time to anneal it before trimming it. Should make it easier to trim and be easier on the cutter.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Greg,

    I am sure you are correct about annealing. I can only hand anneal currently and have a large amount of 223 I am running through a Wilson trimmer. This evening I went out to the “cave” and fetched two more cutters and both cut circles around the dull one I was using so I am ok for now.

    But a dull cutter in my opinion would not be helped much by annealing (though a sharp cutter would likely dull more slowly).

    I need some more case holders and their 17 cal cutter for my 204 Ruger brass from Wilson and intend to call them and see just what their sharpening costs where I own three if not four cutters.

    I will keep looking into the DIY option as well. I have a dull Lyman steel cutter as well as a Hornady from many years ago.

    Question for country gent:

    Do you have a picture or drawing of your idea of a sharpener you could share with us?

    I am assuming you are advocating sharpening from the face end of the cutter (I was intrigued since in the video I linked to they sharpened the front side).

    But I get what you are cautioning against in doing that.

    Perhaps there is a compromise in that those of us less “trained” can blunder along sharpening from the front edge to a point and then replace or have a pro recalibrate the cutter while properly resharpening every now and then?

    Best regards

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check