Fixing an older model LEE AUTO-PRIME Lever

[DoctorBill]

I use LEE Precision Reloading Equipment.

I have an older model Auto-Prime hand priming unit that I've used for over 15 years.

It works WELL.

Recently the lever on the unit finally broke off. It is Cast Aluminum.
I looked on the LEE Precision web site and found out that that particular model
was discontinued in 2010 and no parts are available any more.

I, being a cheap old penny pincher, decided to "Fix" the AUTO-PRIME unit instead
of buying a 'new' one for $35 at some store......

Here is my "fix" - YOU could do it easily.

I milled off the curved upper surface (you could file it in a vice) to make it FLAT.
Then I found a strip of Iron and drilled holes in one end. See the three photos.
I filed a taper in the end that has the screws to fit the Auto-Prime 'handle's' slot...

I cleaned the two metal pieces with solvent (Mineral Spirits, then 91% Rubbing Alcohol),
scratched the matching surfaces to make them very rough and Gorilla Glued the metal
pieces together overnight. Then I drilled thru the two holes in the Iron strip into the
Cast Aluminum Lever. I tapped the holes for 4-40 threads and screwed in two short 4-40
screws (with Blue "Locktite" Thread Adhesive) to keep them from coming loose.

I used Gorilla Glue as I find it sticks HARD to almost anything and it is flexible also.

It worked fine ! Back to new..... Hope this helps someone save money !

[joe leadslinger]

Nice repair job. A little thought and time can save $

[Jniedbalski]

I really like my lee auto prime. It’s probably 25 years old. It’s getting a little worn out almost to the point I have to really slow down to use it or my primers go in side ways. I will miss it if it ever breaks .

[Binky]

Appears that you did a fine job! In today's world we throw away a lot of stuff that could be repaired with a little thought and some cowboy engineering.

[onelight]

Good job , the combination of glue and screws was a good idea.

[DoctorBill]

Yes - I figured the Glue can stick, but might let go if constantly challenged -
so the screws are to keep it from flexing constantly - especially on the opposite end
of the pivot point - i.e. keeps it from rocking back and forth.

[Winger Ed.]

I wish I'd thought of that.

When mine broke, I just used a heavy leather glove to push on the nub.

[1hole]

Metal fatigue can get to anything eventually. Your repair is obviously good and simple enough to do.

My first press ('65) was a Lyman Spar-T with a neat brass tube autopriming system that worked very well (still does). BUT, in '92 finally drank the green Kool-Aid and got a R'Chucker 2 because .... well, it's a good enough press but lacks a clean deprimer and reprimer.

So, in '94, I got two original Lee Autoprimes, two because "everyone knows they break a lot", right? I'm still using both, one for large, one for small, but a minor hand injury in '98 forced me to cut back a bit on their use.

So ... in comes a Lee AutoPrime 2; the one that mounts on the press. I absolutely love that thing! Why it was so neglected by the market that Lee finally dropped it is beyond my understanding. (IF my AP 2 every fails I'll probably get Lee's current bench mounted priming device.)

I can't KNOW and therefore won't judge why so many others have so quickly broken so many Lee hand primer levers but, since they last so long for so many of us, I have to suspect many broken lever owners have followed Tim "Toolman" Taylor's "more power" method of dealing with mechanical difficulties. Well, as Tim (and a lot of reloaders) could testify, "more power" really isn't the best answer to many problems. Especially things like proper primer seating which requires a sensitive touch and a little finesse.

[DoctorBill]

One good thing about the 'fix' I did, is that, if the glue lets go after
a time, I can simply soak the glue off with solvent and Re-Glue the
lever back on.
I was going to use Epoxy "Steel" - which NEVER gets soft (contrary
to the Clear Epoxy), but figured Gorilla Glue is SO INCREDIBLY tough
and Flexible.

I like to fix things. I am not of that 'Use-It, Toss-it, Buy a new one' generation.
I actually lubricate moving parts ! How many young people do THAT !?

I suspect this will hold for another 10 years.
Being 76 years old, I probably won't be using it that long anyway......

DoctorBill

[RED BEAR]

Nice job. I love the auto prime. I have several around. I have never broke one there i usually break the shaft that hooks on the handle and pushes the rod that seats the primer.

[robg]

Did a similar repair to two of mine but with smaller bolts ,more comfortable on the thumb as well .

[Bookworm]

I've got 3 of the original AutoPrime units. I keep 1 as small primer, 1 for large, 1 for when something breaks on the other two. One I purchased new back in the 80s, the rest came in trade lots.

Mostly I use the large primer unit, for smaller batches (fewer than 100) of rifle cartridges.

I have yet to break one (knock on wood). Before using, I clean the pivot points, and lube with a bit of motor honey on a cotton swab. The lube makes an enormous difference.

I like this repair idea, I'll keep it in mind for the future.

[muta4warrior]

Mine broke at the bottom pivot point, luckily I came into possession of a really nice RCBS unit, so I donated the remaining parts to a buddy that had one to keep his going.

[DoctorBill]

I read your posting, BOOKWORM, concerning "lubing" the LEE Auto-Primer.

So I tried that. To my great surprise, I found the pivot points full of Black Ground Metal....
I cleaned the pivot points and applied Vaseline Petroleum Jelly.
I had no idea that those pivot points would wear so bad - given the small amount of
movement and the low pressure on them !

"ALWAYS LUBE MOVING PARTS" !



The ground metal shows on the Kleenex I used to wipe the pivot points out.

BTW - I am loading .357 Magnums and wanted to show how I easily check the "OAL"
of the reloads.

I measure the Max OAL on old used Credit Cards or Plastic Cards (Expired Parking Passes)
and cut a slot out with a Single edge razor blade. I keep the OAL "Go/NoGo" card right
in the Die Boxes. Costs nothing and is very handy....."El Cheapo Ritzo"


Trying out 5.4 gr of Green Dot with 150 gr LEE (ALOX coated) WW SWC....

[CastingFool]

I will have to remember that tip. I have and use two of the Lee auto primes, one for small primers, the 2nd one for large.

[Bookworm]

I read your posting, BOOKWORM, concerning "lubing" the LEE Auto-Primer.

So I tried that. To my great surprise, I found the pivot points full of Black Ground Metal....
I cleaned the pivot points and applied Vaseline Petroleum Jelly.
I had no idea that those pivot points would wear so bad - given the small amount of
movement and the low pressure on them !

"ALWAYS LUBE MOVING PARTS" !

....

Well, I'm happy I was able to pass along a useful tip !

I think you'll find it's easier to operate the AutoPrime when it's cleaned and lubed.

[NyFirefighter357]

I have recently taken up metal casting, I'll have to take a look at mine and see how hard it would be to make a reproduction part.

[cwlongshot]

Good job!!

I to have worn out three of these before moving on to another maker. Usually the “dog bone” breaks and one of the “knobs” breaks off. (For me)

I bought a RCBS and in about 8 years of use, I wore out there jaws. So occasionally when seating the case would shoot out with authority! RCBS sent new jaws free of charge. And its working again. But while waiting... I bought a LEE bench prime. Im sure this will
Wear out too but right now, (for the past 18 mo) I am liking this product! Heck it was a naturay as I had the proprietary shell holders on hand already!

CW

[Three44s]

That is a good fix Dr Bill.

My tool broke in the pivot as I recall. Pitched it and bought the Forester Coax priming tool. Got tired of the fitzing around that one presents and parked it. Next I bought the standard hand tool from RCBS. I acquired a second one by and by used in a purchase over the net.

Along with that tool came the vaunted Lee hand tool of yester year that is the subject of this thread. I have yet to decide whether to resell the old Lee model or risk using it.

NY firefighter 357 might consider adding strength to the pivot area handle if he dives into casting this critter.

Three44s

[209jones]

I acquired 4 of them altogether, I have broken 2 handles, and had one top break off when seating, I still have 2 spare handles and one spare body, but the lids are looser'n a goose. I acquired a 21st Century while they were still making those, love it. I have tried almost all the other ones on the market, and they can't come close to the old Lee in my book. I have a Forster bench unit that I am trying at present, it is a pain to load up and feeds erratically, but that was first try, so I'll give it a bit to figure out the tricks to it. I may try a Franklin yet, and an RCBS bench unit. RCBS that uses shellholders isn't too bad, but, the shellholder fit over the nub on the body is pesky, Hornady shellholders work if you have them. The RCBS Universal one that does not use shellholders, is in the garbage, along with a Hornady one. I have a new Lee, I can't figure how to get it to actually feed a primer yet, there is a secondary stop for the rest of the feed, that travels with the plunger, that will not get out of the way, don't know whether to just chop it off or what.. Waiting for a day when I have the patience to deal with that one.