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Thread: How long does beeswax/crisco/canola boolits last once loaded?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    How long does beeswax/crisco/canola boolits last once loaded?

    So I'm wanting to load up some black powder loads with 50-40-10 but I'm curious, I don't go to the range all that often so if I load up more than I shoot how long will these cartridges stay good?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    Storage conditions ?

    Ideal storage conditions = 75 years maybe longer .

    Poor storage conditions = 6 months maybe shorter .

    Cool , dry and dark conditions will beat out hot , wet and in the sunshine storage every time .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    And try to store them with the primer facing up. Gravity works, and it helps to keep the liquids out of the powder charge

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Well I got my batch I guess cooling you would call it. I ended up abandoning the Crisco idea due to in the ingredients it said "citric acid" which cannot be good for corrosion. So I went with 50/50 beeswax and pure olive oil.


  5. #5
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    I do have a question though, I don't think this will work but I had some spare mix but not much. So I poured it into a small container and that will be my "bore butter" for cap and ball revolver. But I'm afraid that 50/50 beeswax and olive oil will be too hard to do that. Should I add more olive oil?

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    You can adjust the ratio to suit, but you will find one or two mixes that work best! I'm a big fan of beeswax/olive oil as a BP lube!
    "We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"

    unknown

  7. #7
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    If it were *ME* I'd consider the ambient temperature as a factor re your viscosity question. It is, indeed, a good query! In my neck of the woods, summer temps regularly surpass the 90*F mark; AND, regularly drop below minus-20* in winter. And, to add another stick to the proverbial fire, the barrel itself gets heated quite a bit from the burning powder upon firing(s).
    Sooooo, what I'm suggesting is you "play it by ear" -- e.g., perhaps add a tad more oil if/when it seems too hard based upon the conditions d'jour. Hey -- also in my neck of the woods, we use SUMMER chain saw bar oil in temperate months, and need use WINTER bar all, generally from late November through early April.
    Just some thoughts.... good luck!
    geo

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    I can't find fault with what George said above. It doesn't get that cold here (about 50 miles south of Buffalo), or at least I'm not goin' out shootin' in that weather ! I settled on a mix of about 2 parts OO to 1 part wax. Give or take. I make it soft enough that I can dig a finger into it easily at room temp. Works for me for patches or conicals.
    "We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"

    unknown

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check