Wondering about this boolit design for a 10mm Magnum Revolver ?

[Hardcast]

Mountain Molds online design

Tangential Ogive
3 bands
Bullet weight 240 grains
nose length .305
meplat .300
bullet length .752
sectional density .213

This would be for a short barrel Ruger GP100 revolver with the cylinder reamed for the longer 10mm Magnum case, and short range shooting. If I were going to shoot longer ranges, I would look at a different design. I want a boolit that will punch a hole through an average size feral pig and not be to hard to handle. I shot plenty of full power 44 mag loads when I was younger and do not feel a need to do that anymore. At my age I can't imagine shooting at anything over 50 yards with a handgun, and most likely much closer. Target velocity would be around 1050 FPS. Looking to step up from 357 mag, but a smaller frame and lighter gun than N frame smiths. I have several N frames too.
Any opinions, either good or bad, from more experienced cast boolit designers?

Edit: I do not know why but the image address does not work. I am stumped. Have to leave now, but I will work on it when I return.

Another edit: OK, I give up. I have tried every way I can to get this image to post, but have failed.

[hockeynick39]

Should work plenty fine.

[Outpost75]

The .365 nose length will result in greater bullet intrusion into the powder space, reducing powder capacity. In the longer Ruger cylinder consider a longer nose to maintain powder capacity. For revolver use also consider a crimp groove. These 10mm revolver designs for the Ruger from Accurate all do:

Attachment 243939Attachment 243940Attachment 243941

[Hardcast]

Outpost75

That figure of .365 for the nose length will be too long for the cartridge to fit in the the Ruger cylinder with 10mm Mag brass. I have done some more calculating and I will have to keep the nose at .305 to have a reasonable safety margin of clearance between the front of the bullet to the end of the cylinder. None of those Accurate designs would fit, unless using standard 10mm brass. Then they would work fine. If I were to decide to stay with 10mm and forgo the magnum conversion, which of those three designs you posted do you think would be best? Thanks.

The .365 nose length will result in greater bullet intrusion into the powder space, reducing powder capacity. In the longer Ruger cylinder consider a longer nose to maintain powder capacity. For revolver use also consider a crimp groove. These 10mm revolver designs for the Ruger from Accurate all do:

[Outpost75]

The GP cylinder must be shorter than the Blackhawk...

[Hardcast]

The GP cylinder must be shorter than the Blackhawk...

According to an owner, and Jeff Quinn, the cylinder length is 1.56". From the back of the cartridge case to the end of the cylinder is 1.65". So Overall length of the cartridge needs to be less than 1.65". The case length is 1.242 to 1.248 according to Starline. 1.248 plus a .400 nose = 1.648". That is too close for me. Unless of course I just forget about this magnum case idea and load long nose cast boolits designed for this revolver. Maybe the case length advantage is not worth the trouble and expense. Also, it would not surprise me that the Blackhawk cylinder is longer, but I have not read of any measurements on those.

[475AR]

Here is one I did for the standard 10mm (subsonic) but would also work for the 10mm mag. I did it without grease grooves to keep the overall length as short as possible and I also use Hi-tek coating for lube. It shoots great and I haven't shot a pig with it yet but think it will be fine.

[Hardcast]

475AR, that looks excellent. That is the heaviest I have heard of for the semi-auto. If you long loaded that boolit to utilize the excess cylinder space in the revolver, at what point would case tension become a problem? I have done some more playing with Mountain Molds design page and came up with a 250 grain with a .450 nose, .312 meplat, and it looks good. I would say similar to Veral's Long wide nose. Overall length is .787. Subtract the.450 nose and that leaves .337 in the case. Is that enough for good neck tension? I do not know and would have to go down to my basement and look at some other cast boolits. Maybe this is of no concern. I have Veral's book and started casting back in the 1970s, but I am by no means an expert on these things. My Mountain Molds design has a crimp groove, so maybe I'm barking up a tree with no coon.

Edit: Well I had to go to the basement anyway so I did some measuring. Measured the shank on RCBS Keith, an H&G 503, and a 500 Linebaugh 450 monster slug. The Linebaugh had .450 shank, the others all ran .330 to .340 or so. Looks to me like there is no problem with this design for standard length 10mm in the Ruger GP100. Thanks everyone for the input.

[skeettx]

Should work fine, load a reduced load and save your wrists

[475AR]

475AR, that looks excellent. That is the heaviest I have heard of for the semi-auto. If you long loaded that boolit to utilize the excess cylinder space in the revolver, at what point would case tension become a problem? I have done some more playing with Mountain Molds design page and came up with a 250 grain with a .450 nose, .312 meplat, and it looks good. I would say similar to Veral's Long wide nose. Overall length is .787. Subtract the.450 nose and that leaves .337 in the case. Is that enough for good neck tension? I do not know and would have to go down to my basement and look at some other cast boolits. Maybe this is of no concern. I have Veral's book and started casting back in the 1970s, but I am by no means an expert on these things. My Mountain Molds design has a crimp groove, so maybe I'm barking up a tree with no coon.

Edit: Well I had to go to the basement anyway so I did some measuring. Measured the shank on RCBS Keith, an H&G 503, and a 500 Linebaugh 450 monster slug. The Linebaugh had .450 shank, the others all ran .330 to .340 or so. Looks to me like there is no problem with this design for standard length 10mm in the Ruger GP100. Thanks everyone for the input.

The .337 should be fine, use a good taper crimp. I would remove the crimp groove since it won't be used (10mm mag headspace on the case mouth) unless you plan to make some 10mm rimmed mag cases which you could use the crimp groove. If you do by chance have an issue with bullet tension you can always take the expander button down a couple thou and solve it. Can you post a screenshot of your design, it sounds interesting. Also you may need to verify your cylinder throats and make sure the bullet will chamber. If you want I would be happy to send you a few of my bullets if you want to play with some?

[Hardcast]

The .337 should be fine, use a good taper crimp. I would remove the crimp groove since it won't be used (10mm mag headspace on the case mouth) unless you plan to make some 10mm rimmed mag cases which you could use the crimp groove. If you do by chance have an issue with bullet tension you can always take the expander button down a couple thou and solve it. Can you post a screenshot of your design, it sounds interesting. Also you may need to verify your cylinder throats and make sure the bullet will chamber. If you want I would be happy to send you a few of my bullets if you want to play with some?

I tried posting a screenshot in the first post. I know it can be done, I have just not figured out how to do it. At this point in study and thought, I do not think it would be worth worth the trouble and expense to have a cylinder reamed for the 10mm Mag cartridge due to the cylinder length limitation. If a 44 Mag length cylinder were used it would be a different situation. As of now, I believe I can achieve what I want by long loading standard 10mm brass or using a custom designed long nose heavy revolver boolit that will utilize the existing cylinder space of the GP100. That is, a very penetrating boolit with large meplat at moderate velocity. Watching Gunbroker now for a good deal on a 10mm GP100. Many thanks to all for your input and pics.