Lee PrecisionRotoMetals2Snyders JerkyRepackbox
Load DataInline FabricationReloading EverythingTitan Reloading
MidSouth Shooters Supply Wideners
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 56

Thread: Scrubbing a leaded bore

  1. #21
    The Brass Man Four-Sixty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    612
    To remove lead in a barrel, I beat a lead ball from the muzzle end, back towards the chamber. The stubborn lead just rolls right up.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,669
    Quote Originally Posted by Four-Sixty View Post
    To remove lead in a barrel, I beat a lead ball from the muzzle end, back towards the chamber. The stubborn lead just rolls right up.
    Is that soft lead for muzzle loaders (the leading and the ball both)? How about harder lead?

  3. #23
    Boolit Master



    skeettx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Amarillo, Texas
    Posts
    4,105
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,296
    I'll mention it again: Lead Away cloth. Make a tight patch on the cleaning rod and scrub it back & forth.

  5. #25
    The Brass Man Four-Sixty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    612
    I've used the lead balls made by Hornady.
    "...journalism may be the greatest plague we face today - as the world becomes more and more complicated and our minds are trained for more and more simplification"
    Nassim Taleb
    'Fooled by Randomness'

  6. #26
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    2,725
    I have heard that Mercury picks up lead right smartly. Never tired it but if I had some mercury I would.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    3,783
    Quote Originally Posted by Burnt Fingers View Post
    Ammonia works on copper, not lead.



    I wish I had kept that quart of mercury I had years ago. The price of the stuff now is scary.
    The disposal cost is scarier IMHO

  8. #28
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Baytown Texas
    Posts
    4,106
    I've have read that Kroil will creep under the lead and loosen it. I've used Kroil to help remove Mauser barrels from their actions and to get a cranky spark plug out of an aluminum head. It works well but haven't personally tried to remove lead with it.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    CSRA of Ga/SC
    Posts
    375
    A couple jktd boolits will remove lead pretty QUICK

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Switzerland of Ohio
    Posts
    6,330
    Quote Originally Posted by stubshaft View Post
    Tommy Bish recommended mercury in the bore.
    That's how they used to do it at Smith & Wesson in the bad old days.

    All-copper Chore Boys are sold in almost every supermarket. No need to be buying at inflated prices on the Internet.
    Cognitive Dissident

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    578
    If you look at a real copper chore boy, not the junk sold at Walmart, you will see it can be turned inside out just like a sock. Once you do that you can grab a strand and pull out a 18-24 inch length strand. Snip that off and wrap it around a scrub brush and you have the best tool for removing all lead. Can be used several times before it gets gummed up with lead.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    N. E. Ohio
    Posts
    1,574
    If you have access to an old copper screen, cut a patch from the copper and push that down the barrel. It does a wonderful job of pulling the lead out of the barrel. You can usually find scraps of lead sticking to it.

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Southern France by way of Interior Bush Alaska
    Posts
    5,287
    Quote Originally Posted by sw282 View Post
    A couple jktd boolits will remove lead pretty QUICK
    I always wondered how shooting a few powder coated boolits would do. Has anyone ever tried it?

  14. #34
    Boolit Master mehavey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1,538
    - Slop in Kroil/soak for 10 min
    - Scrub with copper ChoreBoy-wrapped bronze brush.
    - Dry patch

    Max total time: 15-minutes (most of that time spent sipping a frozen Margarita)









    postscriptum: Jacketed bullets just tend to iron the stuff into the bore.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Northern Kentucky
    Posts
    639
    Posted by Petander."Before anyone mentions "you get lead acetate", yes you do but yo don't need to touch it."

    In my lifetime as a chemist, I have worked with Plutonium, Lead, Cadmium, Mercury, Nickel Carbonyl (very deadly) and tons of various hazardous solvents in industrial settings. That said there is no way I am going to introduce Organo-lead compounds into my home environment. They are rapidly absorbed through the skin, and very toxic. You may not have to touch them, but you have to dispose of them, and that is not easy to do safely as a homeowner. Compared to them elemental lead is nothing to worry about.
    Do as you wish, but even with all my experience, I will not take that chance.
    God Bless, Whisler

  16. #36
    Banned
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    9
    Correct me if I’m wrong but, if your leading up your barrel..........your doing it wrong. ie lead hardness, load too heavy or light, gas check, lube, sizing, or any of the other do’s and dont’s about shooting, loading casts. I never have leading problems. But if I did........1 or 2 jacketed rounds through the barrel and automagically no more lead.
    My point being fix the problem not constantly deal with the consequence of not casting or loading correctly.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    793
    Correct me if I’m wrong but, if your leading up your barrel..........your doing it wrong.
    Amen. The simplest and most pleasant way of removing lead from a barrel that I've found is to load some ammo with a light load and use a card wad and soft lube cookie under the boolit. Near as I can tell, the pressure squishing the lube cookie between card wad and boolit gets under the lead deposits and strips them out of there. I used to shoot a lot of pin and falling plate matches using commercial cast from various sources and some of them would thickly lead a barrel. Too hard, hard lube, poor fit, etc. I learned to keep a box of .357 brass loaded with .38 Sp starting loads, card wad and lube cookie handy for after the match. It would only take 6 at the most to have a lead free barrel and a lube star forming on the muzzle. Way quicker than scrubbing. More fun too. Just keep in mind that charges need to be reduced because of the case volume taken up by the extra stuff in there. Safety first and all that.
    Last edited by yeahbub; 06-24-2019 at 12:43 AM.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
    Petander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    2,602
    Outer's excellent (now discontinued) Foul Out electrochemical system uses Lead Acetate in it's "Lead Out" solution for electrolysis.

    Doesn't mean it's safe of course. I get max 1/4 a cup of waste per year,easy to dispose.

    I've never managed to 'shoot the lead out' with j-bullets. Copper just builds on top of lead.

    But especially with coatings,leading doesn't happen. I like to experiment a lot and like to have a solution for an occasional disaster. When Foul Out came it was just so great,no more quessing about lead or not lead.

  19. #39
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    2,725
    I was considering the post about kroil getting under it and lifting if off in flakes. It brought to mind a technique that really works for getting stuck bolts off. Like Kroil, this technique lubes between the offending surfaces. I may try it someday if I get another severely leaded barrel to clean (got a 22 from my brother that he used for rat shot in his garage for the last 20 years. it was so leaded he thought the rifling was gone. I cleaned it up with a combo of all of the above methods except mercury)
    The bolt removal technique is to heat the offending nut or bolt to just hot enough to melt a candle. (probably about 180° F.) Then hold a candle to it so it melts into the joint. It works like magic. Safe for brake petcocks because it doesn't get very hot.
    I thought of heating a barrel to about 180° to 200° and melting a candle down the bore. That just MIGHT get between the lead and the steel and loosen it to flake off...worth a try in my book.

  20. #40
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,402
    Mercury was one of my favorite toys as a kid. Used to just watch it roll around in my hands. Hit it and watch the pieces rejoin into the main mass. All before I knew it would kill you......

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check