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Thread: Lyman Mold Sprue plate stop pin

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    Apr 2016
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    Lyman Mold Sprue plate stop pin

    I was piddling around last night in the garage and fired up the pot to cast a few before heading back into the house. I forgot the mold number, which really doesn't matter, its a single cavity .38 125 RN mould. About a dozen or so bullets in when knocking off the sprue I heard I abnormal tink in the pan. After knocking out the bullet the issue was quite evident that the sprue plate stop pin had fallen out.

    I did a search here and came across a few posts but they mostly dealt with aluminum molds.

    My initial thought is to peen the end or middle of the pin to get a better fiction fit.

    Thoughts and recommendations?
    Last edited by metricmonkeywrench; 06-14-2019 at 07:52 AM.

  2. #2
    Banned
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    I had a steel mold shaved and couldn't get the old pin out so it got shaved with the mold.

    I drilled out the rest of the old pin and used a roll pin.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Jan 2011
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    You might consider rolling the pin on a steel plate under a rasp or coarse file. I doubt it would take much to improve the friction and retain it in the mold block.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check