Hi, I need to make some.433 44mag boolits. I have a Lee 200RF that drops at .430. can I put multiple coats of PC on?
Hi, I need to make some.433 44mag boolits. I have a Lee 200RF that drops at .430. can I put multiple coats of PC on?
Last edited by lar45; 06-13-2019 at 10:16 PM.
Yes. Had to do that with the Lee 55gn to work in my .223.
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I have done it for "artistic" reasons. White base coat baked on then sprinkle tiny amounts of red and blue powder on and re-bake. I'm pretty sure I have read of others doing it for some PC colors that tend to go on thin.
Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.
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PC the first coat and bake just until the pc starts to flow. let the boolit cool to the touch then apply the second coat and bake for 25 min at 400 °
not doing the full bake on the first coat helps the pc bond better.
Yes, you can double layer, but some powders also tend to go on thicker. Smokes clear adds the least for me, his light blue and traffic purple both like to go on thick if you don't blow or sift the excess.
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Yes you can as stated above Traffic Purple is perfect for this
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Some PC's add .001 to .003 in diameter, I would try 1 coat of the traffic purple before you go 2 coats
What temperature are you casting at? Hotter temperatures give smaller boolits (lead expands when it's heated and shrinks when cooled.
Try casting at 690-700° and see if your boolits aren't bigger.
Yes.....but I would not go over 2 coats due to uneven coating....especially if you are NOT doing ESPC. I have never seen any reason to do a 2nd coat in all the many THOUSANDS and THOUSANDS of boolits I have coated. I just buy the correct size mold if needed.
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The old style Lee 2 cav mold would have a hard time keeping aligned if I beagled it.
Instead of doing the "Partial Cure"method, you might try preheating the bullets, but dont go over 150 degrees and the temp does need to be accurately monitored. Preheating will allow a thicker coating to build up, so you may find you can get there in a single coat. The higher temp without going too hot the thicker the coating. Too hot means you end up with a PC ball of bullets. Don't ask how I learned this.
Another trick that works even better, I learned from the professional powder coaters to get an even heavy coating, is if you have a spray gun is do a high preheat on the bullets, like 350 degrees.
Set the bullets on parchment paper, heat to 350-400 degrees, remove from the oven and quickly spray the bullet while still hot. The powder will flow on contact and allow additional spray coats to adhere. When the bullets cool you can see if you have the desired size. Then do a normal full cure.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |