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Thread: 1886 conversion to 50 Alaskan

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Last edited by M-Tecs; 06-11-2019 at 01:55 AM.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    Going to a 50-110 you need to hog a bunch of metal out of the action so you can get the big fat round into the mag tube. Also a little off the end of the lever to allow the loading gate to open a little more. The carrier needs to be opened up a little also, not because of the rim size but the body diameter. Feed rails need to have about .020" taken off for the fatter cartridge. Also the chamber needs to be polished and the bottom radius. The 50 Alaskan may not need as much work to get it into the mag. You may also want to install a shotgun butt plate. Some day I will get around to finishing mine, built on a model 71 action.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Back in the 60s, a friend had a M71 converted to 450 Alaskan.
    In addition to all that John T pointed out, The mag tube/ front of forearm
    was converted to a barrel band arrangement.
    Reason was that with the heavy recoil, the std mag tube/forearm would
    come loose
    beltfed/arnie

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by beltfed View Post
    Back in the 60s, a friend had a M71 converted to 450 Alaskan.
    In addition to all that John T pointed out, The mag tube/ front of forearm
    was converted to a barrel band arrangement.
    Reason was that with the heavy recoil, the std mag tube/forearm would
    come loose
    beltfed/arnie
    The model 71 has the mag tube threaded to the action. This has come up on other lever rifles and some have cut a notch in the bottom of the barrel and silver soldered a lug on the mag tube to fit the notch.

  5. #25
    Boolit Man
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    I have done the marlin 1895 in the 50 Alaskan just to see if I could. It took a bit of tweaking to get smooth feeding and had Reg Noneman re-tap the receiver threads out about 20 thousandths with a special tap he has to get a bit more chamber wall thickness. The heavier charges are not for the faint hearted. I don't shoot it anymore since getting a rotator cuff repair along with anything else above a 38-55 WCF.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I've just about decided to go with the 50 Alaskan, seems like an easier conversion to get the cartridges to load and feed. I watched the video of the 50-110. Wowee!
    When I first got my Browning 45-70, I thought I'd begin with the recommended starting load for lever action rifles on the IMR/Hodgdon reloading page. Sooo.... I loaded up 20 rounds, using 51grs. of 3031 as a recommended starting load for lever action rifles with a 400gr. bullet, and headed to the gun club. Shot the first one and went back home to double-check to see that I had read the info correctly. I musta made a mistake. I think I shot seven that day. Now it's 8 or 9 years later and I still have 5 left. The others were shot by unsuspecting victims who wanted to shoot "something big". Contrary to popular belief that 51 grains is a good starting load? It was a fine finishing load. Once I started casting for the 45-70, there was no need (or desire) to try to load it to the max. I don't know that I would want to try the loads under the heading "Modern Rifles"

    The 50 Alaskan conversion is just because I can, I'd like to load it up just to see what it's like. Then back off a bit and enjoy myself.

    There's a bit of a second reason, one of the apprentice electricians that works for me is 100% Native American. She's 28 now, every year her dad keeps telling her, "Kalyn, it's time for you to come back to South Dakota to hunt Buffalo on the reservation". She said next year she's going to go, I told her I'd give her a choice of three rifles to take along. An 1876 in 50-95, and 1886 in 45-70, or an 1886 in 50 Alaskan. We're going to figure a good black powder load for each, and, off she goes. She's invited me along just to watch, we'll see if that works out.

    Kudos to Starline Brass, they've given me specific case dimensions, quoting base diameters of cases and rim diameters for the 45-70, 348 Winchester, 50 Alaskan and 50-110. Hunter Pilant, Process Manager and Chief Ballistician at Starline was also giving me information about the best case to modify for conversion to 50-95 brass for my 1876 rifle. The only drawing I've come up with, (so far), on the 50-95 case shows the base diameter in mm, converted to inches it's .5605. Part of his reply is quoted next, just in case anybody's interested.

    "We don’t have a case print on the .50 Alaskan, but the base diameter is .545”, which I believe is a little small for the .50-95. I think you may have to step up to the .50-90, it has a .561” base diameter. Both cases have rims that would need modified for .50-95 as well, as I think the .50-95 runs a little bit thinner rim than either one."
    "Our .348, .50 AK, and 50-110 all have the .545” base diameter, the .553” diameter on the .348 is the SAAMI max diameter just in front of the rim and the tolerance is -.008”, but the max diameter is .547”(-.008”)@ .200” from head. I think the .50-95 is around .560” diameter, so it would probably work better if made from our .50-90 brass. I’m sure plenty have been formed from the Alaskan, but I think they end up bigger diameter at the shoulder than they are at the base."

    Look at that, hi-jacked my own thread.
    Thanks to everyone for their replies.
    Larry

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    Several years back I ordered a reamer for the 50-95 and got one that was about .015" undersize at the base. The reamer company thought I was going to be using 348 brass so they made a small base diameter.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    My plan was to have JES reboring work on the 1886 rifle, I'll have brass available for him when I get the 1886 rebored to 50 Alaskan.

    The 1876 in 50-95 is a Uberti, I'll have to check the chamber and see how everything fits. We have two milling machines and two lathes at work, one of the machinists owes me a favor, (60 #s of free lead for a boat anchor). I'm hoping he can make a cutter and I'll approach the spinning 50-90 brass from the side, thinning the rim and reducing the diameter at the same time if necessary. I've got to research this a little more and get his advice.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Greetings
    We did a 86 jap rifle about 5 years ago to 50 Alaskan. Be prepared to work on the feeding and mag tube area especially if using slugs with long noses. But it is all do-able and you will not regret the magnificent thwap a 500 grain caliber 50 FN slug at 1850 fps (or faster) will place on anything it slams into.
    What will a caliber 50 do that a 45-70 will not... make a bigger hole.
    Mike in Peru
    Last edited by missionary5155; 07-10-2019 at 08:49 AM.
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    A 50 alaskan has already been done and there is pictures to prove it. It might be a 71 but its the same thing.

    here:
    https://www.google.ca/search?biw=192...QjrH2lHr5HFwM:

    I know people are asking whats the point... But if you want to... you can

  11. #31
    Boolit Man Spooksar's Avatar
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    Wild West Guns uses a Marlin 1895 as the base for their 50 Alaskan

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check