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Thread: Lacquer

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    I use lacquer for furniture. What you say about ease of application vs results is why it's used in the furniture industry. The reason it's not widely used in firearms is because it won't hold up to any abuse. Expansion and contraction will cause it to crack. It's not as resistant to water as other finishes. You probably treat your firearms well, that's why lacquer holds up well for you.
    I agree with all the above. Lacquer isn’t a tough finish. I think most industrial furniture produced today is coated with polyethylene. If you’re just planning to use the gun as a wall hanger it should serve well, but any exposure to water it will become opaque.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    If you’re just planning to use the gun as a wall hanger it should serve well, but any exposure to water it will become opaque.

    It's not that bad! For thirty years, as I have pointed out already, I have used this stuff and my guns (especially the Marlins) were anything but "wall hangers". I don't abuse my guns but I don't do the white glove thing either, I handle and use them just as most other folks do and the finish looks just fine. As far as becoming opaque I have never seen that happen either except when a piece of lacquered furniture, such as a table, was left wet but simple humidity won't do it and nether will rain as long as it's wiped off in a reasonable amount of time. The fact is if a firearm is exposed to enough moisture to cause the finish to become opaque then the finish changing is going to be the least of the problems unless the gun is made of stainless!
    Statistics show that criminals commit fewer crimes after they have been shot

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    As a young apprentice cabinet maker I was shown how to repair scratches in laminex using hair spray. I have sprayed a few rifle stocks with hair spray over the years and all have stood up quiet well, but I do try and treat my rifles kindly and repair any scratches pronto. Regards Stephen

  4. #24
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    C-dubb's Avatar
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    Catalyzed lacquer will usually hold up better than poly and can be refinished if necessary.
    Poly is more of a plastic and when it needs refinishing almost nothing will cut it.
    I have built custom furniture for 40 years and there is no way I would allow polyurethane into my shop.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy pcmacd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C-dubb View Post
    Catalyzed lacquer will usually hold up better than poly and can be refinished if necessary.
    Poly is more of a plastic and when it needs refinishing almost nothing will cut it.
    I have built custom furniture for 40 years and there is no way I would allow polyurethane into my shop.
    Around 1968 my dad put an antique oak table together from a top and a pedestal from a different table.

    He stripped it, sanded, stained it, and gave it several coats of Varathane full gloss, the real deal urethane finish, and the only one available that I was aware of at that time.

    That table stands today in the same kitchen. It has been subjected to all manner of abuse and the finish looks like the day it was applied.

    .... not that I would want that on a rifle stock?

    :-]

  6. #26
    Boolit Master Tokarev's Avatar
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    There are polyurethane gels that you can brush on and when they cure, they become solvent-proof.
    This web page is my polyurethane bible: https://plasticworld.ca/store/index....dex&cPath=7_42

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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GC Gas Check