Inline FabricationRepackboxMidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2
Titan ReloadingWidenersADvertise hereLee Precision

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 47

Thread: Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil ... What is this stuff??

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy pertnear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Heart of Texas
    Posts
    307

    Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil ... What is this stuff??

    I'm your average gun tinkerer that loves wood stocks that finds himself refinishing a stock every year or so. I love to use Tru-Oil & I can get a great finish of my choice. But the little 3 oz bottle it comes in has me pretty peeved[sic]-off! That little bottle, for sure, will finish several stocks, but once opened & resealed the child-proof lid glues itself on. Then when you need it & you manage to get it opened again, you have to break through a 1/4" of dried goop to get to fresh oil. After that you have to be careful not to get any loose particles on your stock! Topping that off, the cheapest I've found this is $8.44 at Walmart, which just seems like a lot for 3 oz of stuff. Is it just polyurethane or some other elixir the hardware store sells by the quart with a real lid? What is Tru-Oil?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Tru-Oil.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	73.9 KB 
ID:	243284
    Visit my fictional blog "The dr Chronicles" about a laid-back Texan named dr - Enjoy!

  2. #2
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


    waksupi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Somers, Montana, a quaint little drinking village,with a severe hunting and fishing problem.
    Posts
    17,401
    I'm sure you could look up the MSDS sheet to see what it is made of.

    When done using, wipe the cap and neck clean. Seal tight, and store upside down.

    I used Truoil on a couple hundred guns, but have now gone to tung oil. Gives a nice finish in less time. Just as easy to touch up.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  3. #3
    Moderator


    Minerat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Jefferson County, CO
    Posts
    2,478
    A little search on the interweb found this.
    http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard....php?tid=12156

    Cheers
    Steve,

    Life Member NRA
    Member: Clear Creek County Sportsman Association


    Kilo Charlie zero Golf Papa Tango

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Lake Havasu City, Arizona
    Posts
    17,186
    Wise suggestion from Waksupi; "When done using, wipe the cap and neck clean. Seal tight, and store upside down."
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    10,437
    I too do it as Waksupi. Use and wipe clean store cap down. You still get the skin but its on the bottom and this works for you as when using it holds the liquid up where you can get at it easier. I stoew paint in bottles and cans the same way. One warning make sure the caps lids are well sealed when doing this.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Near Mazomanie, Wi.
    Posts
    1,044
    I still have some Tru-Oil and use it. Lately I have been using Tung Oil mixed 50-50 with mineral spirits. Have also made some finish from Polyurethane and mineral spirits, never added any linseed oil, although I may try that next. The TO/MS mix speeds up the drying time. Pure Tung oil takes a few days to harden up.
    NRA Life
    NMLRA Life
    F&AM

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy pertnear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Heart of Texas
    Posts
    307
    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    I'm sure you could look up the MSDS sheet to see what it is made of.

    When done using, wipe the cap and neck clean. Seal tight, and store upside down.

    I used Truoil on a couple hundred guns, but have now gone to tung oil. Gives a nice finish in less time. Just as easy to touch up.
    Well I do wipe the Tru-Oil bottle neck & cap clean, but I never thought to store the bottle upside down. Good tip- thanks!
    Visit my fictional blog "The dr Chronicles" about a laid-back Texan named dr - Enjoy!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master



    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    2,691
    I punch a small hole about 1/18 inch or less in a bottle of it. Wipe the top off and put it back on. Then store it cap down. That will work for a year or more.
    Use it when liquid and not gummy.

    It is linseed oil with who knows what dryers in it. It is not plastic.

    Basically True oil is linseed oil.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    East Tn
    Posts
    3,594
    I store all my paint and finish products cap-side-down and have done so for years, not only pour type products but spray paint or any other spray can that has a potential to clog the spray valve. Doing this all but eliminates stuck caps and clogged spray nozzles, caps can still tend to stick somewhat but no nearly as bad and the krud build-up around the neck of the bottle and stuck seal from under the cap never happen, same with spray cans as clogged spray nozzles are a thing of the past.
    Statistics show that criminals commit fewer crimes after they have been shot

  10. #10
    Boolit Master BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Shamokin/Coal twp Pa.
    Posts
    500
    I love tru-oil. Just shined up some dull grips on a SW 25. 45 colt. I picked up Friday.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF8308.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	33.6 KB 
ID:	243295
    One round at a time.
    Member of Valley Gun & Country Club. Elysburg Pa.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    178
    my understanding is that tru oil is poloermorized (don't think that i spelled it right). linseed oil. basically it is refined into a varnish like substance. IT IS NOT A OIL FINISH. it acts the same as varnish. (in fact i know i didn't spell it right!)

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

    Hickok's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    High mountains of WV
    Posts
    2,628
    Tru-oil is a great finish in my opinion. You can cover scratches and nicks easily. I also use it like a furniture wax on my stocks too, just a dab on a cloth and rub it on like I am polishing/waxing the wood.

    Been using it for many years.
    Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting.

    WWG1WGA!

  13. #13
    Boolit Master



    WebMonkey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    missouri ozarks
    Posts
    519
    Quote Originally Posted by Geezer in NH View Post
    I punch a small hole about 1/18 inch or less in a bottle of it. Wipe the top off and put it back on. Then store it cap down. That will work for a year or more.
    Use it when liquid and not gummy.

    It is linseed oil with who knows what dryers in it. It is not plastic.

    Basically True oil is linseed oil.
    +1
    That's how I store it.
    Don't peel the foil off.
    Works a treat!
    WebMonkey
    Retired 19D
    Psalm 91:9
    Honda 919

  14. #14
    PAPERPATCH MASTER


    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Michigan Thumb Area
    Posts
    5,921
    Had a friend having a custom made rifle done. He asked the smith/builder about a tung oil finish for his AAA exhibition grade claro walnut stock? The smith said he applies a coat every other day for a month. Then once a month for a year. Then once a year for the rest of your life/ownership!Robert

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Airman Basic's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South of I-20
    Posts
    656
    Quote Originally Posted by porthos View Post
    my understanding is that tru oil is poloermorized (don't think that i spelled it right). linseed oil. basically it is refined into a varnish like substance. IT IS NOT A OIL FINISH. it acts the same as varnish. (in fact i know i didn't spell it right!)
    "polymerized" Not sure if that's really true, though.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
    404
    I ended up tossing a lot of Tru-Oil until I saw a tip on how to use. I always stored it upside down and that helps but the key is to make a SMALL hole in the foil cap, i.e. punch a hole with a toothpick, squirt out what you need in a small container, seal the bottle and store upside down. One I have now is about 18 months old and still works fine.

    I like tru-oil as a finish as well.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master

    Hickok's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    High mountains of WV
    Posts
    2,628
    You can put Tru-oil on the brass fixtures of your black powder guns, and eliminate any tarnishing and discoloring of the brass due to blackpowder soot and fowling.
    Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting.

    WWG1WGA!

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    10,910
    Quote Originally Posted by Hardcast416taylor View Post
    Had a friend having a custom made rifle done. He asked the smith/builder about a tung oil finish for his AAA exhibition grade claro walnut stock? The smith said he applies a coat every other day for a month. Then once a month for a year. Then once a year for the rest of your life/ownership!Robert
    He told you wrong. That's the instructions for linseed oil, it never completely polmerizes (i.e. hardens). Only two oil finishes completely polmerize - tung oil and walnut oil. I use tung oil on stocks and walnut oil on bowls. On my pens I have switched to a super glue finish. It does make your eyes water, though.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  19. #19
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    North East, USA
    Posts
    768
    Lately, I've been mixing my own stock finish. 50% Mineral Spirits - 35% Danish Oil - 15% tung oil. Get a small measuring cup (in mL gradients....a quantity of 100mL goes a long way) It works well for me. It makes for an easy touch up too if you get a scratch.

    Store in a small screw-cap water bottle until the project is done. Longer than that and it will likely harden up some and be unusable.


    [EDIT] - these work fine. https://www.amazon.com/Sky-Fish-Grad.../dp/B077NZJDMS

    redhawk
    Last edited by redhawk0; 06-13-2019 at 10:25 AM.

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.


    Not all who wander....are lost.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    swheeler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    4,717
    Quote Originally Posted by redhawk0 View Post
    Lately, I've been mixing my own stock finish. 50% Mineral Spirits - 35% Danish Oil - 15% tung oil. Get a small measuring cup (in mL gradients....a quantity of 100mL goes a long way) It works well for me. It makes for an easy touch up too if you get a scratch.

    Store in a small screw-cap water bottle until the project is done. Longer than that and it will likely harden up some and be unusable.


    [EDIT] - these work fine. https://www.amazon.com/Sky-Fish-Grad.../dp/B077NZJDMS

    redhawk
    It almost sounds like you are making Teak Oil. I've used Helmsman Teak oil on a couple stocks and like it, fast drying and durable.
    Hell, I was there!

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check