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Thread: Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil ... What is this stuff??

  1. #41
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    That formula is home-made Tru-Oil, if their "proprietary" 40% is just varnish.!!!

    I once waterproofed a convertible top with Thompson's Water Seal, which seems to be a wax dissolved in diesel fuel. Had to park the car outside for months, it stunk so! But it worked. Twelve years later that top is still watertight.

    And yes, all front-stuffers should be browned, never blued.
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  2. #42
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer


    waksupi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    That formula is home-made Tru-Oil, if their "proprietary" 40% is just varnish.!!!

    I once waterproofed a convertible top with Thompson's Water Seal, which seems to be a wax dissolved in diesel fuel. Had to park the car outside for months, it stunk so! But it worked. Twelve years later that top is still watertight.

    And yes, all front-stuffers should be browned, never blued.
    Actually, muzzleloaders were blued very early, and at one time were more common than the browning.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  3. #43
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Actually, muzzleloaders were blued very early, and at one time were more common than the browning.
    News to me, but then I'm not big into antique muzzle loaders, so I take your word for it.
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  4. #44
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    Alkyd is a technical name for polyester, so it's not "natural". Phenols all date to 1909 (yeah, I hadda look it up), so they're not that old, compared to the ancient recipe of oil and pine rosin. Phenolic resin was the basis for Bakelite. You've got me there - I never knew it was used for varnish. Ought to work though. California probably hates because it was formed using formaldehyde.

    Phenols are in lots of stuff, plastics, coatings on electric windings, itís in many toothpastes. I used to have a client that made the stuff. Formerly known as Schenectady Chemicals Inc.


    Back on topic, I used to used tru oil to reproduce or touch up old Winchester finishes. It seemed a pretty close facsimile to my eye.

  5. #45
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    That formula is home-made Tru-Oil, if their "proprietary" 40% is just varnish.!!!

    I once waterproofed a convertible top with Thompson's Water Seal, which seems to be a wax dissolved in diesel fuel. Had to park the car outside for months, it stunk so! But it worked. Twelve years later that top is still watertight.

    And yes, all front-stuffers should be browned, never blued.


    My uncle, a chemical engineer in the paint industry, used to curse Thompson’s as nothing more than diluted liquid floor wax. He thought it was criminal to sell it as a deck finish because hard sun ruins it. He worked in sales as he was promoted to the executive level.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    I've been told that there's natural phenols in wine and beer, too. Carbolic acid. The active ingredient in Listerine. (hadda look that up). So they don't date to 1909, just the solid forms.

    Thompsons now prohibits the use of Water Seal on canvas. Not fireproof. Apparently it was implicated in some fatal tent fires. I'm sure EVERYBODY obeys the warning on the can.
    flectere si nequeo superos, acheronta movebo

  7. #47
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    After posting that I got it out of the safe and took some pic's. I haven't looked at it maybe two years. It still looked good , no rust or any thing any where. Used paste wax on the out side and grease in the bore. Before I put it back I took it apart and rewaxed it and put it back together and cleaned out the old grease and put in some fresh. Not as fancy as some of the stuff I see on here but it turned OK for 20 year old kid who had never did any thing like that before. 42 years ago.

    It is the only gun (kit) I made so I tought I would show it off.
    We go through life trying to make the best decisions we can based on the best infomation we can find, that turns out to be wrong.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check