Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil ... What is this stuff??

[pertnear]

I'm your average gun tinkerer that loves wood stocks that finds himself refinishing a stock every year or so. I love to use Tru-Oil & I can get a great finish of my choice. But the little 3 oz bottle it comes in has me pretty peeved[sic]-off! That little bottle, for sure, will finish several stocks, but once opened & resealed the child-proof lid glues itself on. Then when you need it & you manage to get it opened again, you have to break through a 1/4" of dried goop to get to fresh oil. After that you have to be careful not to get any loose particles on your stock! Topping that off, the cheapest I've found this is $8.44 at Walmart, which just seems like a lot for 3 oz of stuff. Is it just polyurethane or some other elixir the hardware store sells by the quart with a real lid? What is Tru-Oil?

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[waksupi]

I'm sure you could look up the MSDS sheet to see what it is made of.

When done using, wipe the cap and neck clean. Seal tight, and store upside down.

I used Truoil on a couple hundred guns, but have now gone to tung oil. Gives a nice finish in less time. Just as easy to touch up.

[Minerat]

A little search on the interweb found this.
http://www.mikeouds.com/messageboard....php?tid=12156

Cheers

[Larry Gibson]

Wise suggestion from Waksupi; "When done using, wipe the cap and neck clean. Seal tight, and store upside down."

[country gent]

I too do it as Waksupi. Use and wipe clean store cap down. You still get the skin but its on the bottom and this works for you as when using it holds the liquid up where you can get at it easier. I stoew paint in bottles and cans the same way. One warning make sure the caps lids are well sealed when doing this.

[mazo kid]

I still have some Tru-Oil and use it. Lately I have been using Tung Oil mixed 50-50 with mineral spirits. Have also made some finish from Polyurethane and mineral spirits, never added any linseed oil, although I may try that next. The TO/MS mix speeds up the drying time. Pure Tung oil takes a few days to harden up.

[pertnear]

I'm sure you could look up the MSDS sheet to see what it is made of.

When done using, wipe the cap and neck clean. Seal tight, and store upside down.

I used Truoil on a couple hundred guns, but have now gone to tung oil. Gives a nice finish in less time. Just as easy to touch up.

Well I do wipe the Tru-Oil bottle neck & cap clean, but I never thought to store the bottle upside down. Good tip- thanks!

[Geezer in NH]

I punch a small hole about 1/18 inch or less in a bottle of it. Wipe the top off and put it back on. Then store it cap down. That will work for a year or more.
Use it when liquid and not gummy.

It is linseed oil with who knows what dryers in it. It is not plastic.

Basically True oil is linseed oil.

[oldred]

I store all my paint and finish products cap-side-down and have done so for years, not only pour type products but spray paint or any other spray can that has a potential to clog the spray valve. Doing this all but eliminates stuck caps and clogged spray nozzles, caps can still tend to stick somewhat but no nearly as bad and the krud build-up around the neck of the bottle and stuck seal from under the cap never happen, same with spray cans as clogged spray nozzles are a thing of the past.

[BigAlofPa.]

I love tru-oil. Just shined up some dull grips on a SW 25. 45 colt. I picked up Friday.

[porthos]

my understanding is that tru oil is poloermorized (don't think that i spelled it right). linseed oil. basically it is refined into a varnish like substance. IT IS NOT A OIL FINISH. it acts the same as varnish. (in fact i know i didn't spell it right!)

[Hickok]

Tru-oil is a great finish in my opinion. You can cover scratches and nicks easily. I also use it like a furniture wax on my stocks too, just a dab on a cloth and rub it on like I am polishing/waxing the wood.

Been using it for many years.

[WebMonkey]

I punch a small hole about 1/18 inch or less in a bottle of it. Wipe the top off and put it back on. Then store it cap down. That will work for a year or more.
Use it when liquid and not gummy.

It is linseed oil with who knows what dryers in it. It is not plastic.

Basically True oil is linseed oil.

+1
That's how I store it.
Don't peel the foil off.
Works a treat!

[Hardcast416taylor]

Had a friend having a custom made rifle done. He asked the smith/builder about a tung oil finish for his AAA exhibition grade claro walnut stock? The smith said he applies a coat every other day for a month. Then once a month for a year. Then once a year for the rest of your life/ownership!Robert

[Airman Basic]

my understanding is that tru oil is poloermorized (don't think that i spelled it right). linseed oil. basically it is refined into a varnish like substance. IT IS NOT A OIL FINISH. it acts the same as varnish. (in fact i know i didn't spell it right!)

"polymerized" Not sure if that's really true, though.

[RustyReel]

I ended up tossing a lot of Tru-Oil until I saw a tip on how to use. I always stored it upside down and that helps but the key is to make a SMALL hole in the foil cap, i.e. punch a hole with a toothpick, squirt out what you need in a small container, seal the bottle and store upside down. One I have now is about 18 months old and still works fine.

I like tru-oil as a finish as well.

[Hickok]

You can put Tru-oil on the brass fixtures of your black powder guns, and eliminate any tarnishing and discoloring of the brass due to blackpowder soot and fowling.

[Wayne Smith]

Had a friend having a custom made rifle done. He asked the smith/builder about a tung oil finish for his AAA exhibition grade claro walnut stock? The smith said he applies a coat every other day for a month. Then once a month for a year. Then once a year for the rest of your life/ownership!Robert

He told you wrong. That's the instructions for linseed oil, it never completely polmerizes (i.e. hardens). Only two oil finishes completely polmerize - tung oil and walnut oil. I use tung oil on stocks and walnut oil on bowls. On my pens I have switched to a super glue finish. It does make your eyes water, though.

[redhawk0]

Lately, I've been mixing my own stock finish. 50% Mineral Spirits - 35% Danish Oil - 15% tung oil. Get a small measuring cup (in mL gradients....a quantity of 100mL goes a long way) It works well for me. It makes for an easy touch up too if you get a scratch.

Store in a small screw-cap water bottle until the project is done. Longer than that and it will likely harden up some and be unusable.


[EDIT] - these work fine. https://www.amazon.com/Sky-Fish-Grad.../dp/B077NZJDMS

redhawk

[swheeler]

Lately, I've been mixing my own stock finish. 50% Mineral Spirits - 35% Danish Oil - 15% tung oil. Get a small measuring cup (in mL gradients....a quantity of 100mL goes a long way) It works well for me. It makes for an easy touch up too if you get a scratch.

Store in a small screw-cap water bottle until the project is done. Longer than that and it will likely harden up some and be unusable.


[EDIT] - these work fine. https://www.amazon.com/Sky-Fish-Grad.../dp/B077NZJDMS

redhawk

It almost sounds like you are making Teak Oil. I've used Helmsman Teak oil on a couple stocks and like it, fast drying and durable.