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Thread: HG #38 Ness Safety Bullet

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    barrabruce's Avatar
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    HG #38 Ness Safety Bullet

    Well had a bit of trouble casting these but the mould may have been just hot enough for a start.
    Had one big pin in and the penta point in the other.
    They came off pretty easy but my spruce cutting/ twisting /Turning over upside down etc was a bit "unco" and I lost the plot after a while.
    I think I only cast 20 useable bullets but mostly wrinkly.
    I have to sort myself out before, I get every thing hot again and a preheat temp set-up.
    The big pin started sticking and I never got it hot again after that.
    Ha.
    Down the range for a quick play and a bit of a shot.
    Using my load for plainbase bullets in the 30-30.
    Not bad considering.
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    Filled deep cavity with wax 50yds.
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    Deep cavity as cast 50 yards
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    Penta pin 50 yards.
    Good considering just a slip fit into the case and no load development done using rejects.
    I think I’m going to like this mould.
    Cheers
    Wonder what the B.C. Would be?
    Last edited by barrabruce; 06-08-2019 at 02:40 AM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Nice group. What's the load data?

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Load data is.
    Well used 30-30 brass.
    Cleaned every year or two.
    Outside wiped with ed’s Red on cloth to clean off any goop.
    Only ever slightly neck sized in lee whack’em die honed out to just size most brass to 0.310".
    Open to 0.312" with expander tool.
    Bullets heated and rolled in tin of 60/40 beeswax/vasalene .
    Sized in 0.311"Lee die nose first to clean up outside surface.
    Seated by hand out long and let the gun sort out the final depth.
    Dipper of 4.6 grn bullseye but backed of to 4.2 gns to see if there was any difference in sound.
    Didn’t seem to crack at the noisey range.
    I use a light fluffy Dacron filler to position the powder on the cci lrp.
    Shot with rifle held over bench with rolled up towel under fore arm with a 1.5-4.5x power scope.
    It was wet and cold miserable 20 deg c winters day with only mostly light lazy breeze (cuts through you instead or going round)one could see the strength though the constant drizzle rain with the threat of the target dripping off the backer.
    It made the stickers fuzzy and out of focus.
    I had only 4 cups of good sipping coffee that morning and a triple shot milk coffee drink while going to the range.
    Hope it helps.
    Last edited by barrabruce; 06-08-2019 at 07:18 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Well had another go at this mold.
    Give it a good preheat they said.
    Nope still cranky with the big pin. Penta point no worries.
    Put it on the open flame of the gas ring to heat the pins up.
    More struggling but seemed better but still in a bad way sticking but bettera
    Golly I say to myself better get it hotter. They like it hot they say.
    Ok put back bathing in the flame for a bit more.
    Picked up the lee 2 banger 90gn swc and started to cast perfect bullets after the 2nd fill.
    Got into a mode for abit and.
    Forgot about the mold for a while.
    Picked it up poured some lead in it.
    Holy Molley Batman!
    The molten pool of lead took at least 3 minutes or more to freeze over.
    The Frosty penta pin bullet fell out and broke when it hit the bench.
    The bottom of the big hollow point bullet fell off and the bit left on the pin come off easy.
    "Well at least it should be enough now" the voice in my head was telling me.
    Short and long of it no luck got a few good looking big hollow points but most have pliers marks from the removal.
    I may need some help with this one

    Doon thar range I go and try my several nearly acceptable bullets.
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    And
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    Still pretty good with a little improvement..
    For me anyway.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Gamsek's Avatar
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    Let the mould SIT on a hot plate for at least 20min, so the sprue solidify in 1O sec or more. Use alloy that is hotter than usually, I used 415 C. That temp and good preheating where you let pins to soak all the temp, on a hot plate, will keep your pins hot. Hot alloy will help to keep pins hot. Cast fast, donít stop.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    I had the same problems with bullets sticking to the pins also. I had 1 penta and 3 of the big pins. I coated the pins with pencil lead before preheating like bluejay suggested. I also preheated the mold on a hot plate, and turned the temp way up (PID said 780+) The penta would drop ok, but the big pins would stick. I wasn't able to get frosty bullets before the pot got low and I gave up. the base fill out was perfect.

    My pins look like they have some machine marks on them. I'm going to polish them a little and try again.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I had fears of the long pin being an issue so didn't sign up for this one though I would like a mould. Instead what I did was to make a push out mould (like the old Ideal Cylindrical moulds) on the same design with long round pin.

    This mould makes a smooth sided boolit that has to be knurled to hold lube.

    In any case, I made it to see if the pin would be a problem. No! Was the answer, it cast so well I didn't bother ordering the Mihec mould. My "clone" performed very well and I have so many moulds for my .303's that I decided I wouldn't order the Mihec even though they are wonderful moulds.

    But I digress, the pin was what I wanted to test and mine worked perfectly so proved my fears wrong. It is the same length, round and polished. I figured with the long slim pin it would stick badly but no. I have several other Mihec brash Cramer moulds though and agree that they have to be run hot and steady as Gamsek says... cast quickly and don't stop.

    I pre-heat all my moulds on a piece of 3/16" steel plate over a propane stove and my Mihec brass moulds get heated until the sprue plate lube starts to smoke which is a bit too hot but they settle in after a few casts.

    So, if you are having sticking problems:

    - pre-heat until sprue plate lube starts to smoke
    - cast as fast as you can to the point you are dropping soft boolits (denting, cracking, breaking) then slow down just a bit
    - try putting a bit of sprue plate lobe on the pins only... just a light wipe
    - if sticking is still an issue try polishing your pins

    I'm sure once you get the hang of casting with the brass moulds you'll like it. Mihec makes a fine mould!

    Longbow

  8. #8
    I'm A Honcho!
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    Bang on the hing pin to get the mold to open slightly. And then gently tap and see if they come off.

    Im using this in 308 and have not used the biggest pin yet, only the penta. At the velocity generated behind 18.5 AA9...ITS GOING TO FRACTURE. No Doubt.

    Dont use that load...its made up but works well. Takes a good crimp...but more accurate than 2400. I think I will chuck up the large pins in a drill and wet sand them before I even try them. That is a lot of pin to get a boolit off of.

    Bluejay
    You never know how you rank amongst men 'til you have seen what will break another man.
    The original "Bluejay" US Army/ US Navy 1945-1970.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Thnx everyone.
    I’ll try polishing my pins.
    I used plate lube on the pin ...but used graphite the first time.

    I have no temp control so I ‘ll try the Smokey plate lube indication.
    Maybe if a bit of lead mix gets crumbly or melts on a steel plate ,then let it cool for a bit might be a good tempt to start with.
    I promise I will oil my kero stove pump leather and keep up a good pressure.
    Cheers.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy KVO's Avatar
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    I think the big pin sticking issue is both a surface finish and pin size issue. Typically I polish HP pins before ever casting a bullet. Did not polish these before as I was too anxious to try it out. If your bullets are sticking to the pins, rather than bang on the mold or use pliers, invert the mold and gently wash a propane torch over just the base of the pins and the bullets will fall right off.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Good tip KVO I hate beating on my handles all the time

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy KVO's Avatar
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    Thanks Oily

    If you trust yourself or have a high dexterity friend you trust, the penta pins can benefit from some cleanup as well. Either use a very fine file or 320-400grit emory cloth backed with a file to GENTLY draw file /lightly polish the pin facets. I don't take out all the tooling marks on these, just enough to take off the top layer. Caution to preserve the dimensions and not round them off! I think once Mihec starts making pins in- house we'll see a much better and consistent finish on them.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I will try the flame on the base of the pin as well.

    Anything that beats bashing the mould or plucking its teeth out with pliers is well worth it.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check