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Thread: Need to squeeze,hard to open?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Petander's Avatar
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    Need to squeeze,hard to open?

    I have been cleaning this nice LBT mold for days now,brakekleen,anti-rust,toothbrush,even careful brass brush on pins and pin holes. Mold has been sitting unused for several years,dry.

    It needs to be squeezed tight harder than I like for no gap between the blocks. Then the pins stick when opening,again harder than I like. Bullets come out good and round but with all that extra force... you know.

    It isn't warped,just a little tight at the pins. Would you tap the pins deeper?

    Ive never adjusted pins on any mold,what is the correct procedure to avoid damage? Pushing them in very,very little...

    Thank you.

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  2. #2
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    kungfustyle's Avatar
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    First try them out of the handles. If you still have to squeeze then tap them out just bit at a time.

  3. #3
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    I find the problem you're experiencing often a "mystifying one". Bion, I had a similar challenge with a (RCBS) mould, and the cure was -- bion -- simply putting the mould in a different set of handles -- to, RCBS-branded ones. Many folks write about improving function by adjusting pins, but I've done this once, very gently using a file which has a safe side against mould as I removed a burr -- this with a piece of very thin shim stock between for "insurance". What I did -- perhaps a suggestion for you? -- was to blacken both mating sides with soot from wooden matches; gently closing the mould; and, seeing where the black was rubbed off. It works! In my case, it was just one side of one pin (the burr), and I had success with no more efforts.
    Good luck!
    geo

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy Teemu's Avatar
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    I had a same kind of problem with RCBS mold. I sanded just little bit that hole where pins goes in and it solved my problem. I also tested different handles but that didn't solve that problem. I usually use same brand handles on every mold if possible
    Last edited by Teemu; 06-07-2019 at 09:23 AM.

  5. #5
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    A way I've used to find a tight spot is to lay one layer of that thin, white, Plumber's, Teflon tape over something,
    and put it together. You'll see pretty quick where it is impacting.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


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  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Don't grind or file on the mold!

    This is typical of LBT molds at first. Just cast with it one or two cycles and it will relax. Squeeze the handles during the pour. Veral describes the process in the instructions that accompany the mold. It is normal. It will break in with use. My guess is that it has had some limited use prior to storage?

    I received a new LBT 4 cav yesterday. Very tight alignment roll pins. Same as my previous LBT. After a few sessions the older one is about perfect. It settled in exactly as Veral said it would.

    Let me know if a pic of the LBT instructions would be useful to you. Send a PM.
    Last edited by Taterhead; 06-07-2019 at 11:00 AM.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Make sure the blocks are moving free on the handles and not binding there. Ink the pins and see where they are rubbing or if they are. Binding spots will show as bright thru ink being rubbed off. Work from there. Adjusting pins can be a big chore and is a lot of trial and error. Before starting this some simple tools to have on hand 1) a small to medium brass hammer or ball peen 4oz-8 oz, 2) a brass punch sizes to fit in pin holes loosely, 3) a piece of flat steel stock to set the blocks on when "adjusting" You want to set the blocks on a solid surface and lightly tap the pins. clamping them in a vise risks marring and isn't as solid making consistent adjustments harder. Find the binding pin and block on the flat surface and measure protrusion from the block. then give 2-4 light taps and remeasure check every .001-.002 moved. You can sometimes mate one pin at a time and feel which one is tight.

    If you go to far then you need to drill a clearance hole in the steel plate and use the punch to extend it back out.
    If you get a complete ring of bright around the pins dia. you can set to where they just locate ( touchy to get just right) or lap polish the pins to the sockets with some tooth paste. this works and don't take a lot to do. Another is a sharp edge on the socket can grab the pin making it sticky

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    If I read this right, you are cleaning this and working with it cold. How is the alignment when up to operating temp. I have found that a tight mold is much better when it is hot. he aluminum expands more than steel and the tightness goes away.

    never mind. I see the reference to boolits coming out round now.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Country gent, what you describe is great advice for about every other type of mold that comes to mind. However, with due respect, Veral's roll pin style alignment pins don't really work like that.

    What the OP is experiencing is a normal condition of LBT molds until broken in. Simply cast with it, while squeezing the handles and it will settle in with use.
    Last edited by Taterhead; 06-07-2019 at 11:31 AM.

  10. #10
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    Thank you all - it's quite possible that this mold has seen very little use.

    I only used it a couple of times when I got it ten years ago, I moved to heavier plain base in 500. Got it off Ebay, used, It had a couple of generous lube/wax deposits but gave good boolits. And it was tight back then,too.

    I'll give it a few good sessions - these papers came with it but there is no mention about tightness when new. But it is completely understandable.

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  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Yeah. Keep at it. It will cast dreamy with time. Veral is always willing to help too if you contact him.

  12. #12
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    If the pins and holes are clean, usually just lightly lubing the alignment pins with synthetic 2 stroke oil solves that problem for me.

    I haven't needed to try this but it should work -- You might try a little fine polish(fitz)/toothpaste on the pins and holes (spin a wood q-tip in the holes slowly -w- a drill and use a small buffing disk on the pins.

    I lightly lube the pins/holes, sprue hinge(screw) top of mold and bottom of the sprue plate every time I use a mold and for long casting sessions during the session.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I found a few hundred bullets from nearly ten years ago,cast with this mold.

    I Hi Tek coated a few and happily checked and sized some of them two days ago, like a day after coating or so. Tried the same today, no way any more. I would break the Lyman sizer,no matter what lube going from 503 to 500. They got back to some crazy hard BHN , baking softened them for a couple of days only. 50 don't fit in my Saeco tester but hard they are,probably 50 mono/ 50 ww -mix.

    Great mold,beautiful,uniform bullets.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    ...

    Great mold,beautiful,uniform bullets.
    This is why I like the LBT so much. Others in my collection make great bullets, but the LBT are the most effortless for me to get beautiful consistent round, well filled bullets with very flat bases. They ARE expensive, however, and Veral took his sweet time making it to the post office to mail the one I received yesterday.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Yes,I just weighed a random two dozen or so. Took one bullet,press "tare" on the scale.

    Coated, these all are 405 grain +/- 0,6 grain. Mold says 425, I'm definitely on the hard side here.

    And I used a ladle with a cast iron pot on a gas burner back then. No hot plates or PID:s.

    Diameter variation is out of my measuring skills. I'd say nonexistent.

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    Last edited by Petander; 06-07-2019 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Add pic

  16. #16
    Boolit Master

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    Those look beautiful! Nice work.

  17. #17
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    Veral includes a "small stick" of lube. With the mold hot, all you have to do is barely touch the pins and then there will not be any more sticking. Get too much and the lube will follow the vent lines to the cavity and then you have to clean again to get rid of the excess. Mine was very tight until I did this. I did not over do it with the LBT mold, but tried it on another mold and got too much, and had to clean the mold before I could get good bullets without wrinkles due to lube in the cavity.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post

    I haven't needed to try this but it should work -- You might try a little fine polish(fitz)/toothpaste on the pins and holes (spin a wood q-tip in the holes slowly -w- a drill and use a small buffing disk on the pins.
    BINGO!

    I tried this,very gently. It worked,thank you very much.

    Looks like the previous owner used some strange lube that burned a hard deposit.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy Teemu's Avatar
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    Nice to know you got it work properly.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teemu View Post
    Nice to know you got it work properly.
    Thanks! I think I got it just right because it still "sticks" when cold but works beautifully when hot. Boolits measure good.

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