Help needed with a barrel band

[brstevns]

Putting together a rolling block that has a .990 to 1 inch diameter barrel. Was wondering if anyone would know where to get a barrel band to use on this size barrel, to hold on a forearm? Maybe one of the older military rifles etc has such a band? or any thoughts on a way to hold on the forearm without drilling tapping the underside of the barrel to hold one on.

[john.k]

Make your own barrel band from two different dia tubing,weld together,grind to profile...or if its OK ,just have a flat section band........you can also work up a band from a single piece of tube,but its more of a job for an experienced metal former,and you would likely need a swage block and swages.......this is the problem with one offs......tooling makes it easy if you want to make 100 or 1000,but takes time to complete........bit like the well known checkmakers......you could make one check by hand methods,but its a lot easier with tooling,and then you get a power press and a strip feeder,and you can make millions in the time it takes to make one by hand.

[indian joe]

Make your own barrel band from two different dia tubing,weld together,grind to profile...or if its OK ,just have a flat section band........you can also work up a band from a single piece of tube,but its more of a job for an experienced metal former,and you would likely need a swage block and swages.......this is the problem with one offs......tooling makes it easy if you want to make 100 or 1000,but takes time to complete........bit like the well known checkmakers......you could make one check by hand methods,but its a lot easier with tooling,and then you get a power press and a strip feeder,and you can make millions in the time it takes to make one by hand.

I made a front band for an early Rossi (barrel band with sight blade) ---just cut it out of a piece of half inch flat - had made a couple before for winchesters by welding two pieces of tube and they never looked right - was determined with the Rossi one to do it right and in the end was really surprised how well it worked out - not near as difficult as I thought it would be - make sure to measure exactly and drill the two holes right (barrel and magazine tube) the rest is just elbow grease - sawin' and filin' and emery polishin' - no idea how long it took - but done in a morning - at least as nice lookin as an original winchester one - way easier than I thought would be.

Got it good enough the rifle shoots to POA consistently (no front sight wiggle at all)

[indian joe]

Putting together a rolling block that has a .990 to 1 inch diameter barrel. Was wondering if anyone would know where to get a barrel band to use on this size barrel, to hold on a forearm? Maybe one of the older military rifles etc has such a band? or any thoughts on a way to hold on the forearm without drilling tapping the underside of the barrel to hold one on.

This might be easier than the barrel band - depends what you like the look of best
You could cut a shallow dovetail in the barrel then drill and tap a block that fit the dovetail - a lot of guns are done like that for the stock bolts - its much easier than tapping the barrel - prowl a few gunshops or shows you might even "find" the dovetailed/tapped block to fit the barrel, save ya makin it - I have a couple of those in my parts drawer salvaged from old 22single shots.

[Gewehr-Guy]

the rear band on my 1870 Springfield 50-70 measures around .885, but I believe it is a put together Bannerman made gun, so may have a band made from surplus civil war parts. I don't have a .58 springfield to measure, but I think it would be close to what you need.

[pietro]

Putting together a rolling block that has a .990 to 1 inch diameter barrel.

Was wondering if anyone would know where to get a barrel band to use on this size barrel, to hold on a forearm?

Maybe one of the older military rifles etc has such a band?

or any thoughts on a way to hold on the forearm without drilling tapping the underside of the barrell to hold one on.

I would use the EASY button, and buy a rolling block rear barrel/forend band.

Here's a vendor of RB parts - click & scroll down to the bands ( a rear band is $15 here):

http://www.rollingblockparts.com/original-parts.html



.

[Gewehr-Guy]

Mistake on the measurement in my last post, measures .985, close to what you need. Sorry for the bad info, Jim

[country gent]

If you have access to a welder then one can be formed up from a piece of flat stock. If possible hide the weld in a corner where the 2 dias meet. Or even more fun make a sand mold of what you need melt some brass up and cast one up and finish it. You could do steel but its a lot more heat to melt and needs clay lined utensils to work with.

A lost wax casting would be interesting. Carve the piece from paraffin and coat in clay slurry several times to strengthen the wax. work a layer of clay around it. remember you need to form a fill hole and several vent holes also in the image. fire the clay to set it and burn out the paraffin. Set this on top of pot while brass is melting and fill while hot. A small stand to set hang it on helps lot. fill thru fill hole and when material shows in vet hoes its full let cool. Remove clay form and finish

[3006guns]

This might be easier than the barrel band - depends what you like the look of best
You could cut a shallow dovetail in the barrel then drill and tap a block that fit the dovetail - a lot of guns are done like that for the stock bolts - its much easier than tapping the barrel - prowl a few gunshops or shows you might even "find" the dovetailed/tapped block to fit the barrel, save ya makin it - I have a couple of those in my parts drawer salvaged from old 22single shots.

Another alternative.......file a block of mild steel to shape (contoured to bottom of barrel) and tap for screw. Silver solder to bottom of barrel, drill hole in fore stock and insert screw. Done, and it will hold easily.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Attachment 243047Attachment 243048

Here's one that I worked on last month. A bit of an explanation -- when received the fore stock was held on by a black plastic electrical tie in lieu of a barrel band. I did not know about the vendor linked by Pietro (above), and found that Gun Parts Corp. had nothing I could use that was original equipment. Since the fore stock was in such bad condition I wanted to replace it anyway, and found that they did have stock sets from when Star in Spain used to make a Rolling Block copy, and they come with a barrel band included. When the set arrived I found that the butt stock was even shorter than the original Remington stock (and so, decided not to use it), and that the fore-stock would require some inletting as the barrel channel was much smaller than the original. My goal was to keep the overall appearance of the carbine "period", but authenticity was a lesser consideration as the carbine was in far from collector condition. The included barrel band was of no use, as the Star barrels were apparently of smaller diameter than Remington's, and it looks quite different from an original -- so into the parts drawer it went.

The fore stocks, original and Star version, are held into the front of the receiver below the barrel by a square of wood on the receiver end of the stock. The bottom of the square seats upon the inner bottom of the receiver and retains it in position. The Star stock's square was smaller, not contacting the receiver on its top, but it doesn't matter as it is a bit wider, which needs to be worked down to a good fit, and the bottom of the
square keeps it from moving as the barrel band exerts a little upward pressure on the front end of the fore stock which presses the bottom of the square at the rear downward against the inside of the receiver.

So the exercise now becomes to keep the fore stock from moving forward out of the receiver, which is accomplished by the barrel band. Rummaging around in the barrel band drawer I discovered several "maybes", but one M-38 Turk band that was almost a natural. I worked the front end tip down a bit and it slid right on. These bands aren't "squeezers" like some, but are retained by a good fit and a cross pin or long, skinny bolt with just a few threads, either under the head or at the opposite tip. Since I'd gone with a non-original fore stock I figured that using the Turk band wouldn't hurt a thing, and so installed it and drilled the cross hole. I found a perfectly sized pin for the hole, then full length bedded the fore stock with colored Accra Glas Gel. Since I retained the butt stock without refinishing I needed to match the new fore stock's color. Although advertised as walnut, the wood was almost as white a birch. I used Brownell's very dark stain, and was happy with the result. The barrel band job turned out well, I thought, but now I had a sling swivel on the front and nothing on the butt stock, so I inletted an old Mauser swivel for the butt stock. Then I scrounged around for an authentically old-looking sling and found a very tired Swiss specimen.

Hope there's some information here that will help you one way or another.

[brstevns]

Thanks for the information. I thought about just soldering a small hex nut on the barrel and putting a small screw thru the bottom of the forearm . What do you think?

[country gent]

If you look in most hardware stores fastener selections they have steel thread connectors that can be cut down in length and used. Another would be to solder a piece of 1/4" key stock and then drill and tap the holes in it

[Der Gebirgsjager]

There's more than one way to do this, that's for sure. You can also make a half barrel band that will allow you to slip it onto the barrel past the front sight and which will act as an anchor for a sling swivel which will double as the fore end screw.
Attachment 243069Attachment 243068
Click to enlarge.

[brstevns]

There's more than one way to do this, that's for sure. You can also make a half barrel band that will allow you to slip it onto the barrel past the front sight and which will act as an anchor for a sling swivel which will double as the fore end screw.
Attachment 243069Attachment 243068
Click to enlarge.

Funny, was thinking of using the bottom of a 1 inch Millet scope ring and drilling and tapping , just like you have pictured. Would think ACCU WELD would hold ring in place if needed.

[ulav8r]

Funny, was thinking of using the bottom of a 1 inch Millet scope ring and drilling and tapping , just like you have pictured. Would think ACCU WELD would hold ring in place if needed.

Or let the swivel screw bottom against the barrel to hold the band in place, if long enough.

[brstevns]

Or let the swivel screw bottom against the barrel to hold the band in place, if long enough.

Good Idea will be a few weeks before I get to this point. Have a 75-year-old piece of maple butcher block waiting to be turned into a stock and forearm.

[brstevns]

Do you think regular old soft solder would hard?

[samari46]

Maybe a barrel band off one of the Greener 14 guage shotguns?, mid barrel is maybe what you need and could be made smaller if needed. Try gun parts for one. About the only thing I could think of. Frank