45 45 10

[MR CHEN]

I'm going to give 45 45 10 from WLL a try before hi tek or powder coat.
Any likes or dislikes? I'll be using this with medium loads in 38spl and 45acp.

[INTRLOPER]

I have never used it as it comes from WLL, but 50/50 LLA/JPW simply excels at lower velocity pistol rounds. It is occasionally the best thing for smaller bore high velocity loads too. My 256Win Mag loves the stuff on lightweight gas check bullets. It is just as accurate as the 60grain JSP's and cast bullets using traditional wax based lubes going full speed.

[JBinMN]

I use it & it works fine for me in handguns. I use other lubes for rifles.

Try it out for those loads you mention, I think you will like it.

Some suggestions that might help ya...

If you make your own, save the metal can the JPW comes in, or find another tin can like contain (soup can, etc) and put the boolits in the can. (I generally do 50 or 100 at a time) using a heat gun, or a hair dryer , heat up the boolits & swish them around a bit. Just warm them up, but not too hot to handle. Just want them warm to help melt the lube & get it soft enough to coat evenly.
Put a little of the lube in with the boolit & swish around again. You can even reheat just a little bit to help soften the lube if it got hard on ya. The amount to put in is just enough to coat the boolits. I would say the size of a navy bean or two just for an idea, but the size & amount of boolits will make the difference & you may have to just try it to get it down & figure out what works for you.

Once you have evenly coated the boolits, spread them out in a pan or something that is lined with some wax paper swirl them around a bit to spread them out & let dry.

Drying time can vary, but I often have them ready in 2-6 hours, depending on humidity & other climate factors. Some say overnight, but I do not think they are heating the boolits. The heat helps speed the drying, so that is why I say to heat the boolits a little bit.

So, you can just do everything without the heating, but the dry time is likely going to be longer.

One more thing to remember. You will know if you are putting too much lube on the boolits by the buildup that gets on the seating die from the nose of the boolit. If you are putting too much on it will build up & start seating your boolits deeper. This is kind of a trial & error to get the right amount of lube. It likely will take ya a while to get the amount right for each batch you lube, based on number & size of the boolits. The more ya do, like I do, of all size/weights & calibers , it usually takes a bit longer to figure it out. Since you are only doing 38 & 45, it should not take you as long. ( What I am saying is that the surface area of the 45 boolits is larger than the 38 boolits even if in equal numbers like 50 or 100, so it would take a little more lube for the larger than the smaller, even if it is the same amount in the batch. )

G'Luck! If ya try it.

[MR CHEN]

Thank you gentlemen.
I was going to try hi-tek and powder coat and I still might, but the 45 45 10 sounds like a simpler prosses, so I thought I would try it first.

[JBinMN]

Yep. Give it a try. You may be surprised.


G'Luck!

[rmark]

I recently made up some 45-45-10 using some bowling alley wax I got off a pile of stuff due to be tossed out. And if it ever stops raining I may get to try it out

[Elkins45]

I’m a big fan. It’s quicker than HiTek and is fine for 90% of the handgun shooting I do. The biggest negative I can think of is the smoke, but it’s still much better than straight Alox.

I’m starting to reach the opinion that the only reason to prefer HiTek over 45/45/10 or BLL is for specialty stuff like lead 300BLK through a can.

[jaysouth]

It beats the snot (pun intended) out of straight alox, aka "mule snot", but go up to the sticky above for BLL. One coat of BLL will handle what you are doing, two coats is good for 1300-1400 fps. Three coats is good for above 2K fps. It is easy to make and easy to use. It dries hard and clear and does not smoke as much as 45-45-10.

[MR CHEN]

It beats the snot (pun intended) out of straight alox, aka "mule snot", but go up to the sticky above for BLL. One coat of BLL will handle what you are doing, two coats is good for 1300-1400 fps. Three coats is good for above 2K fps. It is easy to make and easy to use. It dries hard and clear and does not smoke as much as 45-45-10.

What is BLL?

[centershot]

What is BLL?

Ben's Liquid Lube.

[jaysouth]

Mr. Chen:

Read the first and last ten pages.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-L-Liquid-Lube

[burch]

I’ve used it for years coating pistol bullets. Never had a problem.

[MR CHEN]

I’ve used it for years coating pistol bullets. Never had a problem.

Which one, WLL or BLL?

[JM7.7x58]

I have only used the 45/45/10. I made my own in a double boiler using Recluse’s directions. I used White Label’s Xlox, Johnson’s paste wax, and regular oil based paint thinner.

My wadcutter in 38 special get two coats. One coat before I size them through a Lee push through sizer, and then a final coat before loading. Seems to work great for me. I’ve been pushing these at +P velocity and have not developed any leading.

JM

[MR CHEN]

I have only used the 45/45/10. I made my own in a double boiler using Recluse’s directions. I used White Label’s Xlox, Johnson’s paste wax, and regular oil based paint thinner.

My wadcutter in 38 special get two coats. One coat before I size them through a Lee push through sizer, and then a final coat before loading. Seems to work great for me. I’ve been pushing these at +P velocity and have not developed any leading.

JM

That's how I did it also.
Lubed, sized, lubed again and got leading. These are not tumble lube bullets, I read here it should not matter. Bullets sized to fit cylinder throats using a Lyman #2 alloy. I'm disappointed.

[JBinMN]

That's how I did it also.
Lubed, sized, lubed again and got leading. These are not tumble lube bullets, I read here it should not matter. Bullets sized to fit cylinder throats using a Lyman #2 alloy. I'm disappointed.

Where is the leading in the bbl?

Near the chamber/beginning of bbl? Towards the muzzle end? The first can be hardness & fit, the latter is usually lube. A description of where the leading occurs & what sort of leading you see, like streaking along the leading edges of the lands, or the like is also helpful to add info to help diagnose & then to fix leading issues.

Up to you to give out what might help others to help you out and get rid of that, "disappointment".

[JBinMN]

If you are not aware of these links/articles below, they may be of interest to you. If you already have read them, perhaps a review would be a good idea.


http://www.lasc.us/TaylorLeadingDefined.htm

https://www.grantcunningham.com/2008...-cast-bullets/

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_7_Leading.htm

Just trying to help ya out. I can stop if you like. I do have some shooting of my own to be doing in a little while.

[MR CHEN]

Where is the leading in the bbl?

Near the chamber/beginning of bbl? Towards the muzzle end? The first can be hardness & fit, the latter is usually lube. A description of where the leading occurs & what sort of leading you see, like streaking along the leading edges of the lands, or the like is also helpful to add info to help diagnose & then to fix leading issues.

Up to you to give out what might help others to help you out and get rid of that, "disappointment".

I suspected the lube.

So today I shot the same bullet , same powder, same everything except the bullets were lubed the conventual way.

No were near the heavy leading from just using the White Label tumble lube. A slight buildup in the forcing cone, some streaking down the bore, all normal signs of shooting lead.
I'm not knocking White Label, it just isn't working for me with this bullet and gun.

[JBinMN]

I suspected the lube.

So today I shot the same bullet , same powder, same everything except the bullets were lubed the conventual way.

No were near the heavy leading from just using the White Label tumble lube. A slight buildup in the forcing cone, some streaking down the bore, all normal signs of shooting lead.
I'm not knocking White Label, it just isn't working for me with this bullet and gun.

OK.

Thanks! for letting us know how things worked out for ya.

Just keep in mind that when the leading is at the chamber end,&/or beginning of the barrel,
it is usually, from the "fit", meaning obturation, or hardness might be the issue..
( The lube hasn't had the chance to do its' job yet at the beginning. "Obturation"/ Boolit Hardness & "Fit", take precedence at the beginning of the sequence.)

When the Lube is failing, it is usually at the middle to the end of the barrel, closer to the muzzle end.

( The lube just doesn't "last" long enough to keep the barrel lubed & the lead starts to leave the boolit & starts to show up or adheres to the lands & grooves as it gets more heat since the lube wasn't there to do its' job.)

G'Luck now!


I am unsubscribing from this topic as I have done all that I think I can do here.


I am sure others who are more experienced & have more time on the forum may be able to help you if you seek further assistance.

[MR CHEN]

OK.

Thanks! for letting us know how things worked out for ya.

Just keep in mind that when the leading is at the chamber end,&/or beginning of the barrel,
it is usually, from the "fit", meaning obturation, or hardness might be the issue..
( The lube hasn't had the chance to do its' job yet at the beginning. "Obturation"/ Boolit Hardness & "Fit", take precedence at the beginning of the sequence.)

When the Lube is failing, it is usually at the middle to the end of the barrel, closer to the muzzle end.

( The lube just doesn't "last" long enough to keep the barrel lubed & the lead starts to leave the boolit & starts to show up or adheres to the lands & grooves as it gets more heat since the lube wasn't there to do its' job.)

G'Luck now!


I am unsubscribing from this topic as I have done all that I think I can do here.


I am sure others who are more experienced & have more time on the forum may be able to help you if you seek further assistance.

JBinMN.
Thanks.
I appreciate your, and the other posters input.
I'm going to the next step in coatings and see how that shakes out.