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Thread: best .380acp cases

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    best .380acp cases

    I have a question for those of you that reload a lot of .380acp. What brand of cases have you found to be the best/least troublesome to reload? I have come into several thousand empty cases that I want to keep only about 500 for personal reloading as I can't live long enough to use em all. Headstamps are mostly WW, R-P, Federal and several other domestic and foreign brands. I would like some info on which ones are the best to keep. Thanks a bunch.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I don’t know, so I’d apply the same logic I do to 9mm, basically keep Win, RP and Fed, scrap the rest.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master


    stubshaft's Avatar
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    Keep the nickel and dump the brass cases.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!

    Men who don't understand women fall into two categories: bachelors and husbands!

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Fiocchi are excellent, and cost less than the others. The loaded ammo is hotter than domestic stuff too.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy kir_kenix's Avatar
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    I toss some of the foreign stuff I dont recognize. They can vary wildly in every dimension and will stop up the dillon occasionally.

    Everything else I load up with minimal sorting. Watch though, some of the lengths are quite a bit different...especially hornady.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I've loaded just about every popular domestic and imported brand and they all load easily with jacketed bullets and fire with no function problems in my gun. I can't pick a favorite or best.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Make sure they have a properly sized extractor groove cut. See domestic brands for a good example of such. Some foreign ammo does not.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by higgins View Post
    I've loaded just about every popular domestic and imported brand and they all load easily with jacketed bullets and fire with no function problems in my gun. I can't pick a favorite or best.
    Me to , all brands of case but mainly Hi-Tek coated or the Lee 105 grain swc

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    free and boxer primed.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

    BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    I load them all too. My fave is nickel in all calibers. Just because i like how it looks lol.
    One round at a time.
    Member of the NRA,GOA and FAOC. Gun clubs Zerby rod and gun club. Keystone Fish and Game Association.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by stubshaft View Post
    Keep the nickel and dump the brass cases.
    I do the opposite. Different strokes.......

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Nickel cases in my experience do not last as long as the brass ones.

  13. #13
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
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    I keep everything. I do separate before loading all the odd ball stuff is loaded together.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    I closely inspect all .380 brass and load all that pass inspection. Haven't had any specific problem with any particular head stamp.

  15. #15
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    I would, if it were me, measure the lengths of your brass, and sort by this criteria more than maker or headstamp. I view it imperative to have all cases the same length when loading this diminutive case, and having them all the same sure saves a lot of time and effort. Note, too, I have gotten once-fired cases that were quite short -- another reason to check lengths.
    Good luck!
    geo

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    My supply is mixed head stamp range brass and they all load just fine with my lead loads - and if there is nickel mixed in, I don't care - load 'em till they split and toss 'em. As I load (on my Lee turret press) I inspect and if i spot something, toss 'em in a can and they work well for making powder scoops and other things - knock the primer out and use a round head screw through the and they make great drawer pulls.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Another right here that loads it all. Sort by head stamp to preserve some sort of consistency. I right now am only loading Xtreme 100gr plated in the 380 so there is no deviation from changing bullets from brand to brand.

    I will suggest this though, you mention sorting and keeping only 500 cases. I'd keep all of it and the reason being is that no matter where I go I always seem to have a 20% loss rate on this brass. Don't ask me where it goes because I don't have a clue. It just evaporates or something!

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    I'd keep all of it and the reason being is that no matter where I go I always seem to have a 20% loss rate on this brass. Don't ask me where it goes because I don't have a clue. It just evaporates or something!
    I have the same problem but in my case it is because it lands in front of the firing line at the range and the RO's tend to frown upon folks retrieving brass from the no man's land.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgerkahn View Post
    I would, if it were me, measure the lengths of your brass, and sort by this criteria more than maker or headstamp. I view it imperative to have all cases the same length when loading this diminutive case, and having them all the same sure saves a lot of time and effort. Note, too, I have gotten once-fired cases that were quite short -- another reason to check lengths.
    Good luck!
    geo
    This is one of the situations where I really like the Lee factory crimp die where precision takes a back seat to function it works great with range brass mix of case lengths none of my 380s are target or hunting guns.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master

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    Reloaded a nice bunch of random headstamp brass in the XL650 with no notable issues. Didn't really give it a great deal of contemplation as "50 Yard Pocket Pistol Bullseye Match" is not a game I have much interest in.

    Best advice i could give you would be to weigh a handful of each headstamp and keep whatever has the least variation. You might also gently knock out some primers and see which appears to hold them in tighter, then check to see if they have nice round flash holes or if they look like they were punched with a dull awl.
    WWJMBD?

    In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check