do aluminum checks have any advantage over copper

[Lloyd Smale]

only a couple bucks cheaper per 1000. Not enough to justify buying them over copper if cost is the only issue. Do they actually do something better?

[Rcmaveric]

I hear tell the copper ones are better over 2000fps. They are quite equal up to that point. I really havent noticed a difference with my shooting from 1000 to 2000 fps in multiple different calibers.

I make own from alluminum so the savings is great. Only takes a couple thousand checks for the tooling to pay for itself.

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[sigep1764]

Seconding what RC said. Pick some aluminum checks up cheap to try then pick up a check maker. Its pretty cool watching the punching of disks and the cup forming, then applying your own check to your own boolit.

[RED BEAR]

I hate to say it but a couple bucks makes a difference to me . Wife claims i will squeeze a nickel until the buffalo farts. I only just saw the aluminum for sale a few months ago so will try them next time i need them.

[Elkins45]

If you have a bad mold with a fat shank some of the thinner Al checks will go on easier and straighter than thick copper ones. My Lee 8mm mold has such a fat shank I have to buy the thinnest checks I can find or they won’t bottom out on the base.

[JBinMN]

I have been pondering a GC maker for some time now. So, along with Lloyd Smale, I too am interested in hearing the "Pros & Cons" from those who have things figured out pretty well about the differences between the two.

[nun2kute]

I got into making my own cause I couldn't afford to pay Hornady prices and I didn't find any other source before deciding I wanted to make my own. And I just like to do some things myself and farm others out. I cant advise on the difference, seems a non issue for me and the way I do things. But for a couple bucks I'd go with copper.

[MT Chambers]

My concern has always been with aluminum galling, just like copper builds up but is removable, not sure about aluminum.

[rbuck351]

I have never noticed any build up with al or cu checks.

I make all my own checks from aluminum because I can. More for the fun of it but it does make the cost of checks almost nothing. I make my own check makers as well.

[Tracy]

I read somewhere (probably here) that aluminum will wear your barrel faster because of a thin layer of aluminum oxide that forms on them. I've also read claims that it is a different form of aluminum oxide and not a problem.
I really don't know; just throwing it out there. I occasionally use aluminum checks if I have them, but I prefer copper even if they cost a bit more.

[GregLaROCHE]

Do aluminum beer cans work for checks. Or are they too thin?

[winelover]

I only purchase them when I need undersized checks and they are not available in copper. Don't think there is enough economic difference between the two. Especially, almost all of the ones I have purchased, have a nick on the edge.

Winelover

[Tom W.]

I have a freechex II I believe, for .45 caliber boolits. I'll use a Pepsi can that's cut and folded over to form the checks. I know that they are thinner than using flashing or copper checks but they do just fine. I also use them for the .44 SRH with no problems, although I did it at first just to see if I could...and to my surprise it worked!

[trapper9260]

I have a freechex II I believe, for .45 caliber boolits. I'll use a Pepsi can that's cut and folded over to form the checks. I know that they are thinner than using flashing or copper checks but they do just fine. I also use them for the .44 SRH with no problems, although I did it at first just to see if I could...and to my surprise it worked!

This is good to know about ,have anyone use AL flashing ,if so how it works. I have the first 22cal Freecheck that was made years ago and did not try it yet. I did bought the Gator checks. that cost less then Hornady. I did start with Lyman press on and then when to Hornady then I seen on here some time ago about the Gator ones and made a large order of all the ones I want. So for now I am set on them but always looking for different ideas to try out sometime.

[6bg6ga]

What does the tooling cost?

[kungfustyle]

What does the tooling cost?

http://freechex.net/photo_i.html
http://patmarlins.com/
and there is someone that makes them on this forum in the vendors section.
They run about $100 to $130 per caliber. Good stuff, lasts and like they said above, pays for it's self.

[JBinMN]

http://freechex.net/photo_i.html
http://patmarlins.com/
and there is someone that makes them on this forum in the vendors section.
They run about $100 to $130 per caliber. Good stuff, lasts and like they said above, pays for it's self.

I think it is PatMarlin.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/memb...?722-PatMarlin

Do not think he is a vendor here any longer, but here is his webpage:
http://www.patmarlins.com/

I need to get a hold of him for some of my doins as well.

[richhodg66]

I've used aluminum check without problems. I haven't used a whole lot of them, but never saw any difference between them and copper. I'm no metallurgist, but have a hard time believing galling or aluminum oxide would cause a problem.

One place where the aluminum would be an advantage is the plain based gas checks. I've only used a few on undersized bullets for the .351 WSL, and had a problem with some coming off in flight because they were designed for .358 diameter bullets, but I think the concept is good and I'm going to try some on regular .358 in a few things when I get to it.

[6bg6ga]

Doesn't the bullet mold have to be designed for the gas check?

[richhodg66]

The plain based ones are made of very thin metal and slip over a plain based bullet and are then swaged on when you size them.