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Thread: do aluminum checks have any advantage over copper

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by richhodg66 View Post
    The plain based ones are made of very thin metal and slip over a plain based bullet and are then swaged on when you size them.
    And how does this work on nose first sizing?

  2. #22
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    richhodg66's Avatar
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    Couldn't tell you, I used mine base first.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
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    Most aluminum found in hardware stores is just too hard for the .35's. Our FreeChex tools in .35 used .010 flashing okay. If you can find a dead soft or annealed copper its easier to work with. But, the metal thickness needs to match the tool.

    The .30 cal FreeChex tools we used worked good with the .014 thick metal flashing. It was made to run that metal, something you could buy in a hardware store. But, using a stamping alloy is much better. The Sage's aluminum .35's are made with custom spec metal through our own tooling, punched evenly and made on a high speed press. Eventually all of the Sage's aluminum will be made that way. I used FreeChex tools for years and years though. They were well made and durable, some of those tools have hundreds of thousands of strokes on them. We did finally wear out a few of them.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    And how does this work on nose first sizing?
    It probably will tear them off. I size all of ours base first.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
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    Have used both and did notice that the Al did not stay on as well as CU. Shooting 30 cal would find AL checks in front of the firing line. Wasn't every bullet that lost them but would find a small number. For the cost stayed with Gator checks. Not sure what the problem was but suspect the thin AL checks did not get a good grip on the GC shank due to a small shank and minimal sizing. FWIW I sometimes found some of the old style Lyman checks as well so decided to go with the crimp-on style. Easy way to compare AL to CU checks is to try and remove the check after the bullet is sized and lubed.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master mattw's Avatar
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    The Al checks have worked fine for me with one exception, 22 TCM. At around 1900fps the 22 TCM seems to shed between 3 and 4 out of every ten. I am early in testing and just got some Gator checks to test with and have the bullets cast, checked and coated. I suspect that I may have to go to Hornady with an actual crimp ring to keep them on. They shed late in the shot with a side by side double hole in a target at about 20 yards. Does not seem to have a big impact on accuracy at that range, my eyes stink so with open sights on a 1911 I only shoot to about 25 yards anymore.

  7. #27
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    winelover's Avatar
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    The ones I purchased from Sage's, specifically recommended base first sizing. I installed mine after the initial lubing and sizing.

    Winelover

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    I was running low on 30 cal checks, so I got 1000 of each.
    Same thickness.
    Will be loading both, with the same load, to see if any difference.
    I am hoping not, because the Alu is cheaper.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check