From Plinking to Hunting - Ready for the Next Level

[sureYnot]

Looking to fine tune a bit and get the same accuracy out of my cast, up to 2-300 yds, as I can do with factory.
I'm already down to "squirrel head" at 25 yds. Looking for "squirrel head" at 100, now.
I'm aware of, but unfamiliar with "neck turning", for example. Those few things that take the extra time, but are worth it. Willing to accept production going down to 1-10% of what I can do now with current results.
Just need a few ideas on what to learn about. So, just throwing out a "search term" would be helpful.
Not looking to have my hand held. Just looking to be shoved off the cliff in the right direction.

Thank you.

[Thumbcocker]

Cartridge? Type of gun? Type of game? Range?

[sureYnot]

Cartridge? Type of gun? Type of game? Range?

Was looking for more general suggestions I could apply across the board, but ok...300 BLK, pigs/deer, 200yds max. More looking at 150 being a far as I want to shoot. And hoping for <100yds.

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[Drew P]

I’m no expert and many folks will help you much better than I can, but what you’re asking about is a specific factor that does affect precision, but it’s only one of about 100 different factors that contribute. Things like bullet design, shape, seating distance to lands, charge weights, case neck tension, concentricity, barrel age, flash hole, barrel harmonics, etc etc etc. so, if you got most of the other factors nailed, then you’d be a lot farther ahead than getting only one or two including neck turning.
I’d guess (and I could be way off) that starting with a process of sorting out all your cases for weight, length, batch since new, powder charges, bullet weights primer depth, all those things you can easily just measure, get those in order first. Then find your best load with respect to barrel harmonics. Then after that, start chasing the details deeper, which may include neck turning.
It’s important to remember that a lot of very very good long range shooters use factory match ammo. So, the best hand loaded ammo in the world will help, but again, just one small factor in the end, resulting in a piece of metal hurling across the field and hitting a squirrel head.
The best advice I can give for learning about hitting things at longer ranges is to watch the sniper101 series on YouTube where a fellow named Rex details all the things needed to hit at long range. He covers everything from scope to body position to Coriolis effect and more. Hugely valuable resource and he is a very good teacher. Be warned though, there are over 50 hours of high density rich “school” he’s giving for free!

[sureYnot]

Thanks man. There's allot in there. Exactly what I'm looking for. "Deburring" flash holes is a thing I've seen mentioned, for example. That's another thing I can use. That's great. Keep 'em coming, if you don't mind, folks.

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[Time Killer]

I would recommend looking up Larry Gibson's post on here. He has a lot of useful information regarding cast bullet accuracy and has done multiple test for the forum regarding different things. There are many other things to go along with his information but I try to glean a little info from everyone I can.

[waco]

Good quality brass that is all close in weight(2-3%)
Bullets that are weigh sorted to within .3gr
Full brass prep. Deburr flash holes, square up primer pockets, Neck turn if needed. This is a step you could probably skip unless your brass is really inconsistent. Use a ball micrometer to measure neck wall thickness. If you are getting anything more than .002" variation, I would turn them.
Carefully weighed out powder charges.
Good quality lube.
I am a big fan of inline seating dies. I use the Forester Ultra Micrometer seat dies.
Check your bullet runout with a concentricity gauge. I shoot for .002" or less.
These things have really helped me to shrink cast rifle groups at distance.
Hope this helps.
Walter

[Blammer]

be very particular on the cast bullets you keep and shoot.

size, wt, lube, etc....