Hardline Industries Wrinkled Bullets

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I ordered a Hardline 9mm RN mold, 115gr, I ordered it for using Coatings, I'm having problems casting with it, Bullets always come out wrinkled, I tried adding more tin, NG. Higher heat bullet starts showing frosted but still wrinkled. I also tried casting faster. Occasionally, it will drop good bullets, then it goes back to the wrinkled. I tried it again yesterday, first scrubbed the hell out of it using brake clean then blowing it dry, cast over 100 and not a good one, WHAT AM I doing wrong. Yesterday switched over to my RCBS 9mm and after a few bad ones, I started getting perfect bullets.

[ioon44]

Alloy????

[Side by Side]

I'm guessing the alloy is good, only because as I said above, I used my RCBS 9mm mold and it dropped perfect bullets after heating up? I'm willing to try another alloy!

[starnbar]

mold is not completely clean it just takes a bit to ruin the boolits try taking the mold off the handles and wash it with dish soap let it soak a little while then get a stiff nylon toothbrush and scrub the cavities good some of the silicone lubes dont come off easy

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Wrinkles are caused by a cold mold.
Some molds just need to be run hotter than others.
Cast faster, and maybe ...I say maybe, turn up the alloy pot temperature

[Springfield]

Are the Hardline and the RCBS both aluminum? If not the same material then a comparison is not usually valid, as different alloys cast much differently. Even different brands of aluminum moulds can behave differently. Bottom pour or ladle? Temp of lead? Sprue cooling time? More info would be helpful.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Springfield,
I believe both molds the OP is using are Iron (steel).
although to be specific, RCBS uses Meehanite (I believe?)
and I don't know exactly what steel Hardline uses?
So they may act differently due to that, or maybe block size is effecting it also?

[Conditor22]

I'm a big fan of pre-heating molds on a hotplate with a piece of steel on top of the hot plate to help evenly distribute the heat.
I usually set mine around 400° ----- perfect boolits on the first pour.

I've gone to cleaning my molds with dish soap, I feel brake cleaner leaves a residue. -- that's just me.

You could try lightly smoking the mold.

[Burnt Fingers]

Check the vent lines. Might be burrs on them.

[Side by Side]

Are the Hardline and the RCBS both aluminum? If not the same material then a comparison is not usually valid, as different alloys cast much differently. Even different brands of aluminum moulds can behave differently. Bottom pour or ladle? Temp of lead? Sprue cooling time? More info would be helpful.

Both the molds are same made of steel, bottom pour, I normally keep my lead at 675 I tried it in 5 deg increments up to 725, with still wrinkled bullets. Spruce cooling time varied, the hotter the lead was the longer it took, I didn't time it, but towards the 725 the bullet base was getting frosted, but still had wrinkling on nose of bullet.

[Side by Side]

**************Check the vent lines. Might be burrs on them.***************


I see vent lines, very thin lines running horizontal, I thought this could be a problem, wrinkled bullets almost look like air pockets, the wrinkle starts about a 1/4 of the way from the nose and travels towards the base, how do I check it and what do I do to correct it? I don't want to damage the mold.

[kokomokid]

I cast my heavy BPCR bullets at 805* to 815* and use a laddle to pressure pour and wait about 15 seconds after sprue freeze to cut sprue. It may take a dozen boolits to get the wrinkles (hot enough) out on my brass and iron moulds. If you have a laddle try pouring some fast and some slow. YMMV

[Burnt Fingers]

**************Check the vent lines. Might be burrs on them.***************


I see vent lines, very thin lines running horizontal, I thought this could be a problem, wrinkled bullets almost look like air pockets, the wrinkle starts about a 1/4 of the way from the nose and travels towards the base, how do I check it and what do I do to correct it? I don't want to damage the mold.

Take a cotton swab and run it around the edges of the mold. If it catches you have a burr. I use a small piece of oak dowel to remove them. You can also use a pencil eraser. You can clean out the vent lines with a scribe. Just don't scratch the mold face.

Try running your lead in the 750 range.

[Ateam]

I agree with running the lead at 750. Also if you are blowing it dry with a compressor, you may be reintroducing oil at that point...

[wv109323]

Those air pockets could be something on the molds like oil. I would clean with soap and preheat the mold on a hotplate to burn the oil off if present.
You by chance using a sprue plate lube that is getting into the cavities.

[BK7saum]

what are you using for a sprue plate lube? I occasionally get wrinkles from over-application of the sprue plate lube?

[Side by Side]

what are you using for a sprue plate lube? I occasionally get wrinkles from over-application of the sprue plate lube?

Automotive Air Conditioner Oil

[Side by Side]

I agree with running the lead at 750. Also if you are blowing it dry with a compressor, you may be reintroducing oil at that point...

I will try 750 tomorrow, I'll let you know what happens. Thanks

[Side by Side]

Take a cotton swab and run it around the edges of the mold. If it catches you have a burr. I use a small piece of oak dowel to remove them. You can also use a pencil eraser. You can clean out the vent lines with a scribe. Just don't scratch the mold face.

Try running your lead in the 750 range.

I checked this morning after reading your first idea, there is a very small amount of lead at the nose tip vent line, all clean that out tomorrow and try running at 750, I'll let you know. Thanks Much

[Side by Side]

Starter out last night by cleaning mold with Alcohol , then made sure air vent lines were clear, heated lead to 750, heated mold on top plate and within six casts bullets were coming out perfect. Thanks For all your help.