A new thread about field "kits"

[Green Frog]

I've been making preparations for dealing with my reproduction Henry Repeater in 44-40 and taking it into the "field"... actually to North-South Skirmish events so I can reload as needed. Most of our postings of 310 Tool kits tend to be of rather grandiose collections with dies for multiple calibers and even several handles, while I wanted to go minimalist with this project. One reason cowboys got rifles/carbines and revolvers in the same caliber was that they only had to deal with one caliber! You could carry a small, simple kit for that caliber in a pouch in your saddle bags, and along with a supply of bullets, primers and powder, and be able to keep on shooting for a LOOOOONNGG time!

There's the background, now I'm this far along; I've found an old steel set of 44-40 marked handles and have almost gotten a die set reassembled. I don't use a horse and saddle bags, rather I drive a small SUV and pull a fiberglass camper. Therefore, I'm looking at a small metal box that has about the same volume as the original cardboard box, along with an appropriately sized box to keep bullets, primers, powder, and loaded ammo together. In this way I can pull out the whole shebang and reload at home, then refill the expendables and be ready to do it all again in the field as needed. Due to the unique need of loading BP ammo for N-SSA events, I'll also have to make room for a container of Cream of Wheat filler as well as measuring scoops or some other means for metering the powder.

I'm sort of at the late "spitballing" stage here... what problems do you see? Has anyone already set up something similar in a single caliber kit for the 310 Tool to be handily carried into the field? If I get any responses to this, I plan to take pictures of my project in progress and post them here as well.

Regards,
Froggie

[Outpost75]

In .44-40 as long as cases were fired in the rifle or revolver to be used in, only simple equipment required.

Tong tool decapper and priming chamber.

Short pistol rod with cotton swab to wipe out case necks.

No need to resize necks, instead just reprime, charge powder using .32 ACP case to dip 6 grains of Bullseye or .44 Special case flush to mouth with Trail Boss or BP. Use Accurate 43-200QL bullet as-cast and unsized from 1:30 tin-lead. Push bullet base band into case, wipe lube groove with white lithium grease, then push bullet nose against bench top edge to "stop ring." Use blasting cap crimper to crimp case mouth into crimp groove.

Attachment 242426

[country gent]

Your set sounds useable and able to do the job. On the 44-40 I might forego the cream of wheat for a simple .030 fiber wad under the bullet. ( with the full charge of BP there isn't room for cream of wheat) A 200-215grain bullet and seat down to the compressed powder wad stack. You might want some way of compressing the powder wad before seating rather than do it with the bullet. A light sizing can be dine with the ting type tools and with the lighter recoil of the 44-40 and compressed charge of BP bullet set back shouldn't be an issue.
I have a Henry Original in 44-40 its the steel framed version. These rifles are very fussy to Over all length since there is no cartridge stop. to long and it doesn't clear the tube to short and a second cartridge sits on the follower, jamming it up. The other when firing you need to remember to shift your off hand around the follower as it moves down or the rifle stops feeding rounds. I enjoy mine and its a very good looking rifle.

[Green Frog]

In N-SSA we're required to shoot BP only... we can't even use substitutes, and there is also a proscription on using wads... thus the use of COW filler. I'm aware of the COAL situation. If I load them a little too long I'll also lose the round of capacity in the tube! I came to N-SSA from schuetzen, so I still want to hold my left hand up against the receiver rather than stretched forward like normal people do, so the follower hits my hand when I'm down to my last round or two ready to feed. I've only fired the rifle twice, both times at skirmishes under time constraints, and my team captain who has an identical Henry provided me with ammo that works for his rifle.

Meanwhile, I plan to set up (at home on the bench) a way to load the same high grade stuff he does, but by all means to have the proposed 310 "kit" set up to take to Fort Shenandoah as well, hence the startup of this thread. Actually, I'm now leaning toward making a single, complete box to hold the 310 tool, dies,ammo, extra bullets, primers, powder, filler and measuring devices. This is sort of like what we would have seen during the Creedmoor and Schuetzen eras. Decisions, decisions, decisions.

Froggie

[country gent]

Interesting project there Harbor Freight has some small cases for tools in various sizes that might be done into a very nice loading set up for what you want to do. One of those some foam and felt. A loading block or 2 and the 310 tool. The tool primers and bullets in the case and a pound or 2 of powder on the outside in a Velcro strap holder.

[JimB..]

If you’re handy, a wooden box with dividers and a sliding top. If you’re not that handy, maybe a wooden cigar box or two? I’d mock something up in cardboard. Another option would be a small courier bag.

[Gewehr-Guy]

Once you decide on your load your powder could be carried and dispensed with a brass powder flask. I have considered using one to throw small charges of smokeless powder for plinking loads in 30-30 and Krag rifles using thumb seated pistol bullets.
Another way to carry your kit, some kind of leather or waxed canvas tool roll, with a larger pocket for tins of bullets and caps. Whatever you come up with, please show us a picture what you come up with and tell us how well it works for you. Fun project!

[Bent Ramrod]

I see square, flat pistol cases, made of aluminum, with foam inside and a carrying handle, available in various sizes. They look to be deep enough to hold a metal can of GOEX, and could be partitioned inside to hold the tongs, dies, boolits, primers and even a small loading block and a flask measure. Everything would be right there in front of you, without having to pull items out to get to others underneath them.

You’d probably have to paint the outside blue (or gray), or cover it with thin leather, since aluminum was a laboratory curiosity back then, but one of the proper size would make a pretty handy field kit box.

A suitably aged and distressed doctor’s bag would hold more supplies, and maybe look even more “period,” at the cost of an increase in bulk and unhandiness.

[Outpost75]

+1 on using a brass pistol flask to dispense BP.

Modern Starline .44-40 cases hold about 36-37 grains of Goex FFg.

A Colt 1860 Army or 1858 Remington pistol flask dispenses about 28 grains of black. Then use a smaller .31 Pocket Police or Navy flask to dispense 10-12-grains BP bulk measure of Cream-O-Wheat. These will fill the case loosely to the mouth, and should permit seating the Accurate 43-200QL bullet to its stop ring with about 1/8" compression.

With the compressed powder charge crimping shouldn't be necessary for rifle tube magazine use. You WILL need to check seated bullet diameter to be sure that your Tong Tool seater reduces the .448" diameter of the "stop ring" to form a front driving band of diameter which will chamber in your rifle. My all-steel .44WCF tool reduces the stop-ring nose flange to .435" diameter, which closes in my Rossi '92 with just perceptible resistance.

Loaded rounds are lightly marked, but extract without de-bulleting.

Your milage may vary, as I don't know how tightly the new Henry's are chambered.

This method works fine in an original 1873 with typical worn bore. John Kort mentored me on this one. God Rest is soul.

[firebyprolong]

My suggestion would be a 30cal ammo can. It's what I use for a truck kit. Cheap, tough and completely waterproof. Might be a little bigger than what you need, but I like to have the whole works in one container.

[BrassMagnet]

My suggestion would be a 30cal ammo can. It's what I use for a truck kit. Cheap, tough and completely waterproof. Might be a little bigger than what you need, but I like to have the whole works in one container.

If a 30 cal is too small, try a 50 cal can.

[JimB..]

I’m not usually paranoid, but I wouldn’t store primers and powder together in a sealed metal container. I wouldn’t worry about 100 primers, or 1/2lb of BP, but the combination is across my personal line.

It’s a one in a million kinda risk, and each of us has our own view of managing that kind of risk.

I do like the medical bag suggestion.

[kootne]

Hi Froggie,
I plan on "repurposing" my old aluminum lunch bucket for a similar set up. Not CW period but "me" period anyway. And it has been with me for decades. Got latches and a handle and doesn't have that cold square look of an ammo can.

[bedbugbilly]

Hey Froggie - interesting thread! Being a former N-SSA shooter (many years ago), I know you have "restrictions" for what is and isn't allowed so I think you have to cater your "kit" to that for sure.

Making up a kit for the field reminds me of those I have been acquainted with in regards to muzzleloading and shooting front stuffers for 55 + years. I'm always amazed when I see some of the "hunting bags/pouches" and "possible pouches" - whatever you want to call your bag for your front stuffer loading. Our ancestors carried the very basic of necessities. "Day horns" (smaller horns" were utilized by man for hunting and yet I have seen some carry horns that looked like they came off of "Babe the Blue Ox". When I look at eh size of their hunting pouches and all the "stuff" they have in it I would not be surprised if some couldn't pull out the "kitchen sink" just in case they needed to wash their hands while hunting for a few hours. But I digress . . . .

When I shot N-SSA, most of us had a small tool box of sorts that we had behind us on the line - loaded musket rounds, a can of lube, perhaps powder and all the other stuff that was necessary - patches, cleaning solvent of some nature, screw driver if needed and let's not forget the nipple wrenches and spare nipples, tins of caps . . . and the list went on. Nothing like being prepared for any thing that "might" come up. Many of us wee shooting originals firearms as the different number of reproductions weren't made nor did the Henry repro really exist in any quantity - a lot has changed over the years which is nice IMHO.

You know what you need to have for your loading - the trick is to take your "kit" on a number of "shake down cruises" at a number of shoots. I think you'll soon discover just what you "need" as opposed to what you "thought you needed" - and hey - as far as the cream of wheat - I can't resist saying that you'll also be prepared in case you get hungry!

I am in the process of "downsizing" with the goal of ending up with my SA and a lever gun in the same caliber - primarily 38/357 and 45 LC. I have way too much stuff and it's time to get down to a minimal amount that I can enjoy and shoot. That said . . I love my 310 reloading tools and I have a number of steel tongs and die sets in 38/357 as well as a set of steel 45 LC tongs and dies. My goal is to put together a kit as well that will allow me to reload wherever I am. I am even downsizing my "mold collection" and just keeping a couple of designs that will work well in both the rifle and revolver.

I figure the tongs, dies, measuring scoop are a must! For components - a couple of 100 primers, a supply of maybe up to 100 cast bullets and a small container of powder that is large enough to supply enough powder for 100 rounds - my 45 LC load is 6.00 grains of Red Dot for we're talking, say, 750 grains total to allow for spillage. I'm thinking a container that can have a plastic dish/container of some type that will slip up on the bottom of the powder container to conserve space. If I feel I need a funnel for the powder, I will probably add one of the smaller brass funnels like is used for loading powder flasks. I'll make the box to hold the items so that the lid is also a cartridge block to hold the cases while loading with powder. My bullets will be pre-tumble lubed so not much more is needed than that to do basic loading. Possibly a small straight screwdriver to use on the 310 die lock rings if necessary but all that requires is a very small one that will take up minimal space.

In reality, I may also sew up a leather over the shoulder pouch that could also hold the same set of "necessaries" to carry them if I don't want to tote the minimal size wood box holding the kit.

You're going to require more because of the BP loading - but I think you'll soon weed out what isn't necessary after you use your "kit" at a few shoots. Like anything else - it's a learning process.

I'm not a preppier . . but at times I have thought about just what would be required if circumstances were such that a person had to survive with a minimum of items. I am amazed at all of the newer fangled fire starters and such . . . and if one were to survive in many climates . . . they would need fire for warmth and to cook whatever game they could harvest. Funny though . . . our ancestors got along just fine with a flint and steel and those take up very little space - add a small tin of "char" and I would have no issue in fire building in the wild and would probably have flame before someone with matches trying to start a fire or using a fancy fire stick.

It will be a while before I can get my reload kit box made but will post photos whenI get one done. Your thoughts and comments as well as others not he subject are interesting and I hope you'll post some photos of what you come up with. And . . . enjoy that Henry!

[W.R.Buchanan]

Froggie: I tend to be somewhat fixed in my ideas for a portable kit as I make a reloading tool that is made specifically for this purpose.

It fits a Boyt 13 x 7 Pistol Rug and that fits into a LAPG Large Bailout Bag which holds everything needed to load any caliber I choose to provide dies for. It has a bunch of both internal and external pockets and there is a place for anything you would need.

This tool kit is made up of normally available tools and also hold bottles of powder and what ever you need to load literally hundreds of rounds.

Look here,,, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEpYQMdnxHY&t=2s

The bag is readily available from LAPG for about $30 Measures 22 x 9 x 13 And holds everything you see in the video, as well as enough Tooling and Components for several calibers if you choose. The bag is made of heavy Cordura and will last forever. Very well made and well above any Big Box Tool Bags I've seen or used.

This is the perfect setup for your Camper Trailer as it takes up just a little more space than a Lunch Box.

Not only that with my Hand Press you are using Normal Dies in a tool that is way easier to use than a nutcracker. If you are loading .44-40's you need to treat the cases with care and using standard dies and having a superior feel is the way to achieve that. You can clamp this tool to your dining room table in the camper just like you can do at home and the bar clamp fits in the bag too. Note the 2 bottles of powder in the end pockets.

Here's some pics and go watch the video.

And the hand press is on sale right now too.

Randy

[Green Frog]

Thanks for the input, Randy. As we’ve discussed at length previously, I really hold the type of hand tool you make in very high regard. The point of this exercise for me though is to minimize a kit that is even smaller than your bug-out-bag. I can look at taking the little case for the hand tool and add one set of dies and a supply of components to put them into a GI tool bag... in short, your idea as a single caliber package.

I was (and still am) enamored with the whole 310 Tool thing, but as reality and practicality rear their twin ugly heads, and I may have to leave romance for functionality.

Froggie

[Green Frog]

bedbugbilly it sounds like you and I are singinging from the same page... I’ll be interested to see where your experiments lead you. Please stay in touch.

Froggie

[gwpercle]

My portable kit , due to suffering from the Lackamoney syndrome , evoled into a Lee Hand Press , set of dies and everything needed to reload 500 rounds stashed in a big black plastic tool box, 18" long .
Another good container is a NRA range bag , also 18 " long , I got it when I renewed my NRA membership and it is just the right size .
Powder is dispensed via my home made dippers . I've even brought these to work and reloaded while sitting at my desk .
When I looked into the nut cracker tools and dies they were just too expensive for me .
Gary

[W.R.Buchanan]

Froggie: I started my kit in a bag similar in size to a GI Tool bag but from Cabela's. The bigger bag just allowed me to include the die holding block. It could easily fit in the GI Tool bag with minimal ancillary tools.

My kit currently consists of the Hand Press, A small HF Bar Clamp, a Set of Dies, a Franklin Digital Scale, an old style Lee Priming Tool, Powder Funnel, a small Folding Allen Wrench set from HF, a small screwdriver, Boolits, Primers and Powder. There is plenty of room in that bag for much more.

All of that before the boolits powder and primers would easily fit in a GI Tool Bag.

You could set up a Primary Tool Kit,,, and then have specialized kits with Dies, Boolits Brass Primers and Powder separate for every caliber you choose to load in small drawstring bags.

It would be a grab and go type thing. Tool and Caliber kits.

Just some suggestions for you.

Randy

[Catshooter]

Outpost,

That is a very clever boolit design you posted! Is it yours? Ingenious!


Cat