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Thread: Best Anti-Corrosive Spray for Metal

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

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    Johnsons Paste Wax seems to be working well for me.

  2. #22
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    It ain't rocket science folks, you can spend a LOT of money or a little bit of money and get the same results.

    Something as inexpensive as Cosmoline, wheel bearing grease or RIG will give the same result as something that costs 10x as much.

    Clean the item, make sure it's dry and apply the appropriate substance to protect it. I swear to you it will turn out the same in 10 years with Cosmoline as it will with something that cost 20 times as much.

    If you can prevent water & oxygen from reaching the surface it will be fine. The only magic involved is the ability to separate you from your money.

    Do as you see fit and what your wallet can tolerate.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master


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    While it's not a coating I have a Goldenrod GunSaver Dehumidifier in my safe. It's a low level heater that keeps the safe a few degrees warmer than the surrounding air. It lowers the humidity and prevents condensation.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  4. #24
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    I use the same device. A little heat at the bottom of the safe prevents condensation.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig49 View Post
    I'm looking for products to use to preserve metal when storing guns. Needs to inhibit rust.
    For metal parts that do not and will not reciprocate (for example, screw affixing butt stock to receiver on Winchester Model 97 shotgun) I use LPS-3, a wax like marine preservative. If you are within driving distance of Missoula County, Montana, stop by to have a test part shpritzed.

    Hope this helps.
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  6. #26
    Boolit Master RU shooter's Avatar
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    If it's a common hard use "working" gun a good coating of enamel spray paint should hold up for quite a while . For just preservation regular old bearing grease works well enough , cheap and easy to find .
    If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naphtali View Post
    For metal parts that do not and will not reciprocate (for example, screw affixing butt stock to receiver on Winchester Model 97 shotgun) I use LPS-3, a wax like marine preservative. If you are within driving distance of Missoula County, Montana, stop by to have a test part shpritzed.

    Hope this helps.
    Second on the LPS products - great stuff, just get the one for the task (my go to is LPS 2)
    LPS 3:
    https://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/612
    LPS 2:
    https://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/561
    LPS 1:
    https://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/560

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    I use the LPS products as well. Usually on my lathe in the garage here in sunny and humid Louisiana. So far so good. Even have an old surface plate I bought over 40 years ago. Probably about 14"x 18" that I bought from a place that bought out old machine shops. Pretty rusty when I got it, cleaned all the rust and no pitting. Use the LPS #3 which sprays on wet and drys to form a barrier much like that green stuff that they dip reamers in, sort of a waxy coating. Frank

  9. #29
    Boolit Master


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    Another user of RIG here.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    LPS-3 works very well looks ugly though.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Acf 50 works well on motorbikes used in winter on salted roads .it's an aircraft grade anti corrosion spray.

  12. #32
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    ACF 50 is an amazing product. After the big Mississippi flood in 1993 or so many airplanes had been flooded. Mechanics hosed the insides of the planes with ACF 50. A side benefit was that the radios not only still worked but they were quieter (static and popping) than when new. Sprayed inside an airplane it virtually eliminates corrosion.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  13. #33
    Boolit Master


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    Getting the stuff OFF!!

    You have several worthwhile suggestions and recommendations for what long-term storage protectant to use on your firearms. . . . How do you get the stuff off to use the gun? LPS-3 is a superb marine preservative, a heavy waxy substance guaranteed to cause your gun to malfuction when applied to reciprocating parts.

    Kroil, a solvent with a good reputation has a real problem with LPS-3. And LPS-3 is more or less designed to withstand things like dish detergents and Simple Green.
    It’s so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don’t say it. Sam Levinson

  14. #34
    Boolit Mold
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    I have been doing this for a while. I cut a small strip of zinc sheet metal (available from Amazon) and attach it to the steel part of the gun. It is the sacrificial anode. An electrochemical trick to reduce corrosion.

    -TL

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    Since it hasn't been mentioned, I like Fluid Film. Hard to beat sheep grease! And it's fairly cheap.

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonp View Post
    Wondered if someone would mention plain old wax. Where I am now it's pretty darn humid and hot. I oil my guns and pull them out every 6 months or so. Doesn't seem to matter which oil I use. Ballistol, Rem Oil, etc but for long term storage I usually use 0-20w Full Synthetic Motor Oil.
    Motor oil actually contains no rust inhibitors; great for lubrication - not so much for rust prevention.
    Service members, veterans and those concerned about their mental health can call the Veterans Crisis Line to speak to trained professionals. To talk to someone, call 1-800-273-8255 and Press 1, send a text message to 838255 or chat at VeteransCrisisLine.net/Chat.

    If you or someone you know might be at risk of suicide, there is help. Call the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline at 1-800-273-8255, text a crisis counselor at 741741 or visit suicidepreventionlifeline.org.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol & Powder View Post
    It ain't rocket science folks, you can spend a LOT of money or a little bit of money and get the same results.

    Something as inexpensive as Cosmoline, wheel bearing grease or RIG will give the same result as something that costs 10x as much.

    Clean the item, make sure it's dry and apply the appropriate substance to protect it. I swear to you it will turn out the same in 10 years with Cosmoline as it will with something that cost 20 times as much.

    If you can prevent water & oxygen from reaching the surface it will be fine. The only magic involved is the ability to separate you from your money.

    Do as you see fit and what your wallet can tolerate.
    I totally agree. The part that most people miss in cleaning/wiping off the gun first. I have had guns rust under RIG because I failed to do that!
    Service members, veterans and those concerned about their mental health can call the Veterans Crisis Line to speak to trained professionals. To talk to someone, call 1-800-273-8255 and Press 1, send a text message to 838255 or chat at VeteransCrisisLine.net/Chat.

    If you or someone you know might be at risk of suicide, there is help. Call the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline at 1-800-273-8255, text a crisis counselor at 741741 or visit suicidepreventionlifeline.org.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master


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    This is a well thought out test (I like his channel) of CLP and other lubes. While none performed every test well, it gives you an indication on what to use for your particular use, or which will do what you need overall.
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  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    The extensive testing champ was WD-40 Specialist Long - Term Corrosion Inhibitor .

    WD-40 makes a bunch of " Specialist" products...but the stuff you want is the Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor !
    Not realizing that I grabbed the first can that had Specialist on it...got home and it was penetrating oil... didn't want that. Read the labels carefully...Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor is the stuff you want .
    Gary
    That WD penetrating oil is top notch
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  20. #40
    Boolit Master
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    automatic Transmation fluid got this from an old defense plant worker navy ship gun builder

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check